Buying solid countertops for raw material

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

msparker

Established Member
Joined
28 Mar 2015
Messages
121
Reaction score
49
Location
Brixton
What are people's thoughts on buying solid countertops (this sort of thing) for use in woodworking projects? Presumably they're pretty stable, flat and seem to be relatively cheap compared to buying PAR at somewhere like surrey timbers' online shop.

I'm looking to buy stuff for a project that can be completed in my flat with mostly handtools, so buying rough sawn doesn't really work for me and this feels like it could be a handy shortcut.
 
Well the obvious difference is that the worktops aren't one solid piece of timber so I suspect whatever you make will end up looking like it's been made out of a kitchen worksurface :LOL:

Buying PAR might look expensive, but it's also zero waste and no work to prepare, which you need to offset against how much it would cost to buy rough sawn and convert it. It is still more expensive yes, but it's not as expensive as it first looks.
 
haha very true! for context what i'm considering it for is making a mini workbench that I can pull out and clamp on top of a desk / table / countertop to enable me to do more woodworking in the flat (I do not have regular workshop access sadly), so form is less important than function (although some of the internet's offerings look great IMO)

1605111163401.png
 
depends what the project is. But I wouldn't both purchasing it for most projects, I'd be looking on freecycle or in the odds and ends bin at the local big box store for damaged or cut offs.
I've got a whole kitchens worth of birch worktop to play with, it will get used for projects that most wouldn't consider, purely because I've got it sat there.

for a mini workbench, yer it will work and if you get it cheap enough, go for it.
 
Ah yeah for a workbench it's fine. Really doesn't matter what that's made of..... says me who's making a tabletop mini bench out of walnut and maple PAR.
 
Ah yeah for a workbench it's fine. Really doesn't matter what that's made of..... says me who's making a tabletop mini bench out of walnut and maple PAR.

Wow, thats going to be super nice! What kind of design are you going with? I've got Christopher Schwartz's book on workbenches and the 'milkman's bench' was where the idea came from but theres no way I'll be producing wooden screws etc! I also thought that the wagon vise maybe added excessive complexity for limited gain given its not exactly opening up loads more clamping capacity with the constraints of the size of the overall bench (it doesn't all of a sudden give you 6'). I think given this, I'm going to go with something like the photo above with a face vise, wooden jaws and dog holes which seems like a simple and useful setup.
 
Somewhile ago I bought some walnut worktops.

You just need to be aware when planning cuts, you avoid the comb joints (I think they are called). These can mar the appearance of a finished piece - particularly when turned which I tried.
 
Wow, thats going to be super nice! What kind of design are you going with? I've got Christopher Schwartz's book on workbenches and the 'milkman's bench' was where the idea came from but theres no way I'll be producing wooden screws etc! I also thought that the wagon vise maybe added excessive complexity for limited gain given its not exactly opening up loads more clamping capacity with the constraints of the size of the overall bench (it doesn't all of a sudden give you 6'). I think given this, I'm going to go with something like the photo above with a face vise, wooden jaws and dog holes which seems like a simple and useful setup.

It's a Japanese design I got from the net, I liked it for the fact I can work on a small piece "on the side" without disrupting what I've got set up on my main bench. The one you show above is a really easy but solid design. I have put mine to one side because I need to buy a vice for it but I really don't like blue ones which has limited my options lol
 
I just turned some some small pieces from a beech worktop off cut.
Used a bandsaw to cut out the individual blocks.
 
Used to be a Kitchen fitter till resigning/retiring in July, this was one of the things I made during lockdown. Used to be able to get all sorts of worktop offcuts/ripouts(good lengths) and have made thing and turned things from them( Oak,Beech and Maple).
 
Msparker.

While in hospital last year I thought of using two, two metre kitchen worktops glued together to make an 80mm thickness bench-top. That seemed to find favour with one or two other forum members. Chris Schwartz uses bench-tops like this, in his more simple bench design, so I can't claim originality of the idea. The only downside I could see was that these worktops are put together without any regard to grain direction of the separate laminations. This means you would have difficulty flattening the top with a plane. They are pretty flat to begin with and that might satisfy some workers. There is a furniture store online, (quite well known) which uses laminated oak boards for making their furniture; they boast, all solid oak; 'there is no plywood here'. Clearly they don't have regard for quality veneered furniture! Since I haven't made much furniture lately, I have some of their stuff. It's not made how I would build furniture, but for the money it is pretty solid; although they do need to find a way of making better drawers.

To answer the original enquiry it would depend upon what you intend making, as to whether or not laminated boards are suitable. In the 90s there was a a book full of pine furniture designs, all made with laminated pine boards as long as you select boards to make the best job I don't see any reason why not. Certainly if you have no means of milling timber you can crack on and make some nice furniture. In the nineties there was a lot of panels made from laminated, Philippine Mahogany; (Luan). They were okay, and although soft, I used some for my workbench top back then. It's battered now, but renewing with 40mm beech worktop is feasible. However at this end of my journey, I think I will manage now.

The book is : Pine-Furniture-Projects, by MacKenzie

It appears we can't paste URLs any more. Retrograde step?

John
 
Last edited:
Make cutting boards. Half the work is already done!

This is the "scrap" from the cut out where our sink was installed -

IMG_20201110_223641275.jpg



Photo only taken the evening before last, so I have no finished shots.

It's just a basic job. No fancy inlays or anything. It's just as the other half wanted a new chopping board, not to show off any skill.
 
The only downside I could see was that these worktops are put together without any regard to grain direction of the separate laminations ...

So you plane across it, which considering the hardness of some tops is probably the easy way anyway.
 
On the chopping board thing I just posted, the offcut has been knocking about for a while, and had rubbish all over the surface, and also a fair bit of bow.

After a test, I ran the strips through the thickenesser entirely the wrong way arround.

Again, I tested first, but I was amazed, the finish was fine, no tear out and not really any chipping as the trailing end came out.

Basically I did everything wrong, and nothing went wrong!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top