Definitely agree on the 5 1/2 as solid plane for the length. I like my No 5 but if I need something that size, the width of the 5 1/2 feels a lot more stable on the work.
I’ve cleaned up quite a few No 4s. I’m not sure if we’ve plumbed the bottom of the old plane well yet but the last few “restoration” ones I’ve seen listed were pretty grim and still north of £25.
Aye, no surprise there with the prices.
Not astronomical though, I see you could still get a no.4 for a hair over twenty.
Although, I don't know if you folks are factoring in postage also?
I think that unless you enjoy restoring old planes (and nothing wrong with that) and/or you don't place any monetary value on your time, the Tooltique planes look like a no-brainer for the money. If they are indeed restored/flattened to the standard they claim (and I see no reason to doubt that).
I think there's more value in making an old plane work than you make out.
A lot of skills one can learn.
The last plane I bought, a no.3 plane, I didn't do anything to.
All needed was sharpening of the iron, and honing of the cap iron to my preferred 50 degrees, and a good undercut,
No faffing around with the frog mating surfaces or any of that.
The close set cap iron if utilized, will make one realise that the area in front of the mouth
is of no benefit to adjust for tearout, infact the opposite.
No need for frog adjustments, if its straight and not moving then likely spot on.
So basically saying the blade and cap iron likely needs doing.
One can still make out that this is too much work, frustrating, or risky business.
I'd rather learn on a rusty cheap no.4 personally, as its likely that it will need to be worked at some stage if it gets damaged.
I've heard of folks having trouble with mating the cap to the iron.
One can straighten an iron (a laminated iron riskier) with a tap with a hammer.
Getting a mating fit on the underside of the cap iron, I see some that manage with running the entire length of it along a stone.
Every time I've done that alone, I've took more of the edges(simulated a belly in the iron)
I prefer to either use the corner of a hone, or stick a bit of abrasive down which is narrower than the width of the iron, and a few swipes along the entire length afterwards.
If one has a quick enough setup regarding lapping the iron,
Then that's about as involved as it gets.
One could lap the plane sole, but likely not need anything more than a polish to remove crud.
Beyond that is a bit involved, and a rabbit hole to find something actually flat to a tolerance you can be sure of, and method of working that will take off only the desired high spots and not just wear the ends away making a see saw.
I'm not sure I'd want to buy refurbished plane without knowing what was done to it.
Presuming the good dealers have a good write up on the matter, and quote the tolerance if they're making a point about that.
At least they take good photos, so you know what you're getting.
Some tool dealers on the bay seem to have stocks of 'job lots' which a bit more rough handed approach was used, and they never sell, thin soles like soggy wafers.
Don't tar them all with the same brush I suppose.
Tom
