Thank you everyone. IKt is always nice when people like and want what you make, even nicer when they ask and then pay for it. :lol:
I don't have a heated workshop I'm afraid, I have a 6 x 10 shed that warms up quickly with the lathe and the extractor going but there have been days when I have given up and come back inside.
Jonzjob
The crochet hooks are basically 9" spindles turned using a rounded edge skew and a long nose 1/4" carbon steel spindle gouge. (I can get a really sharp edge with the CS gouge and as I am only cutting small beads etc it keeps it's edge for a whole spindle) I hold them in a chuck and bring the tailstock up to centre the other end. If you don't you will find that the length will whip and be returnable. Don't put too much pressure with the tailstock as it can either bend or split the thin spindle. The spindle is then turned down to 10mm and the hook and holding section (bulbous bit behind the hook) are turned. The section with the hook is turned to within .5 mm of it's eventual size using a digital caliper. (to measure not turn). I then part off the end at the tailstock to a point. Take the tailstock away and using abrasive bring the end 2" down to the final dimensions. Smallest I do in all wood is 4mm, anything thinner I use the metal hook cut off bought ones. The hook is cut using a Japanese back-saw that cuts on the back stroke. 2 cuts at different angles to make a V and then rounded off with needle files. Next I wrap a piece of abrasive around the spindle on the holding section and reverse the spindle holding the turned section (protected) in the chuck. Bring the tailstock back up to make sure it is centered and do your handle. Any bead, cove etc is suitable. I do each one individually as it helps the owner to recognise the different gauges though I put a tag with them when selling them. I don't put any finish on anything that is in contact with yarn as it can come off on the yarn and natural oils from the users hand will over time impregnate the wood anyway. so sand to a sheen up to 1200 using artificial wire wool. Real stuff is dodgy and can leave bits of metal in the wood.
If you do smaller ones and use the metal tips, drill your hole first and then basically do the whole thing between centres, feathering the end for the tip as close to zero as you can..
I use any wood that has a reasonably tight grain and has the grain running along the spindle. Don't forget that where the hook is it is only gouing to be 1/2 the diameter of the gauge e.g. a 4mm hook will have only 2mm of wood where the hook has been cut. So far I have used oak, ash, pittisporum, hawthorn blackthorn, rhododendron, yew, mahogany, iroko, plus some I can't remember. Beech splits too easily IME, sycamore is too whippy. You need dry wood as well as wet wood will bend on small spindles and probably distort as it dries.
Hope this helps, not confuses
Pete
a couple of drop spindles,
several Kumihimo discs (no pictures..already posted)and oddest of all these 
a couple of drop spindles,
several Kumihimo discs (no pictures..already posted)and oddest of all these 
