Building a wooden jointer

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Karl

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I've decided to have a go at building a wooden jointer - a big one !!!!

This is as far as i've got

DSCF1428.jpg


It's 36" long at present - i've put a Clifton 7 beside it for scale.

It is made of American White Oak, and is to take a 2 1/4" blade, bevel down at 50 degrees.

There is a lot of work left to do, which I hope to get finished off over the next few days. Shaping, wedge, finish etc.

I intend to put brass inserts across the width of the sole at the toe, both sides of the mouth and the heel. The area's inbetween will then be scraped slightly hollow, so the brass inserts become the "contact" points for the sole. If that makes sense.

Philly is making me a 6mm blade.

I'm not sure how long I will leave the plane. I think i'll wait and see how it performs once the blade is in place.

Cheers

Karl
 
Karl - I built 'Big Woody' a while back now and it finished up at 28" long, which was long enough. Philly sorted me out with a decent cutter so it works a treat. I built in an adjustable mouth as well and it's got a greenheart sole (supplied by Martin) - Rob
 
Karl":1fzooit3 said:
I intend to put brass inserts across the width of the sole at the toe, both sides of the mouth and the heel. The area's inbetween will then be scraped slightly hollow, so the brass inserts become the "contact" points for the sole. If that makes sense.

I don't think so - it means you won't have a 3 point, straightness-creating contact until the heel is on the workpiece, by which time the blade will already have done 2-point-contact (japanese smoother style) cutting.

BugBear
 
I look forward to seeing more progress on this one. When you think about it, it makes sense to build your own - when you think of what an old no.8 would otherwise cost on eBay! :)

Did you chop a large, square mortise out of the middle or laminate three lengths together?
 
Bugbear - I think I understand your point. I'm still going with the brass rub strips, but will flatten on the surface plate instead.

Olly - the plane is of laminated construction. Seemed much easier than trying to chop out the mouth area by hand! The laminating came out really well - i'll do some close ups when it's not looking so ugly :lol:

Cheers

Karl
 
Paul - it won't finish that big - it'll be cut down to a more "appropriate" size. Not sure what that size is yet.

I've cleaned up the sole tonight, and started marking out for the brass rub strips.

More pics tomorrow.

Cheers

Karl
 
Karl":36n3l6ta said:
Rob - how far back did you put the mouth?

Cheers

Karl
Hi Karl - here's a pic of 'Big Woody' so can easily gauge how far back the mouth was:

ddtyyrteewewtrre.jpg


Without going out into the 'shop to measure it, I guess it's about 300mm or so, possibly a little more. This is with the original blade...the one Philly made is much longer and thicker - Rob
 
Karl
Traditionally the mouth is a third back from the toe, if its any help.
That ratio also gives a good balance, Iv'e found.
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
Karl, Rob and I spent some time pondering over how the sole should be flattened. Rob made up a jig which held a long piece of abrasive, it seemed to work fine.
 
Traditionally the mouth is a third back from the toe, if its any help.
That ratio also gives a good balance, Iv'e found.

Hi Philly

As you can see here, I have the mouth almost halfway along its 30" length. From my experience here, this also gives excellent balance.

Jointer.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Traditionally the mouth is a third back from the toe, if its any help.
That ratio also gives a good balance, Iv'e found.

Hi Philly

As you can see here, I have the mouth almost halfway along its 30" length. From my experience here, this also gives excellent balance.

Jointer.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek

Taking the two claims together, it sounds like balance isn't very critical!

BugBear
 

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