Building a MFT

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

While I have a Roubo-style workbench and prefer hand tools ...

... and have a Hammer K3 slider to take care of rip- and crosscutting ...

... it has dawned on me that that a MFT (multifunction table) would provide more than just another option for sawing - it could provide an ideal small assembly bench as well as a bench for holding small parts for routing and sanding. The balance was tipped when I recently acquired a (new) Festool AT 65EB track saw ... 20 years old but used once or twice at most.

I build a small workbench in solid timber: 1200 x 600mm pine frame and merbau top. Although I have a Domino, the construction was mortice-and-tenon. Since the top was not a standard MFT, it was necessary that I drill the 20mm holes. These were to be 96mm apart, as with the Festool MFT.

There are basically two methods to make one's own: the UFK Parf guide (drill), and the Trend template (router). The cheaper Trend template is $300 in Australia. Fortunately, I was offered the opportunity to make a template by a friend with a CNC. This went one better than the Trend, by doubling it in size. The template has 30mm holes and is used with a guide bush and 20mm router bit to create the 20mm holes.

The bench top was prepared by ensuring all sides were square, and then the template was squared to the front and right side ...

My old Elu router is at least 25 years old. It used a 30mm Trend guide bush fitted into a custom made adapter ..

The router bit is a Trend 20mm ...

I was also very pleased to see how well the dust collection worked. The Elu did not come with dust collection - this was not important 25 years ago! - and I adapted the fitting from a Dewalt to fit it.

Once all the holes were routed ...

... the template needed to be moved to complete the bench top. This was facilitated by two dogs which my friend had thoughtfully made for this purpose ...

The dogs are fitted into the existing holes to align the pattern ...

The remaining holes were drilled.

It only then occurred to me to check the bench top for flat - I should have done this earlier, although the top was flat when I first put it together. There was a 0.5mm gap at the centre, and I decided to plane it flat ...

The top was then sanded(80 grit) ...

... all is flat ...

The holes received a fine chamfer ...

... and the right side was bevelled at 20 degrees.

The reason for this is that the bench will also act as a outfeed for the jointer/thicknesser-planer and sliding tablesaw ...

Finally, the top received a coat of flat poly to protect it during glue-ups ..

Thanks for watching. I will return once a fence is built, and show the various work-holding methods.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Sideways]

Excellent result Derek. Beautiful.
It would be a shame to slice that fine top up by cutting into it with the tracksaw. It maybe worth routing in a replaceable sacrificial strip where you would typically crosscut with your tracksaw.

Did you have any issue with the dog holes tightening up when you sealed the top afterwards ? I found this when I made one in MRMDF and applied wax afterwards instead of doing it before boring the holes (parf 1 in my case).

I'm looking forward to your future posts.

 

[Inspector]

Nice bench Derek but out of curiosity why didn't you give the top to your buddy to bore all the holes on his CNC in one shot? CNC too small or was the top attached to the base by then? I suppose you have the template for the future when the buddy doesn't have the machine anymore.

Pete

 

[Jameshow]

While I have a Roubo-style workbench and prefer hand tools ...

... and have a Hammer K3 slider to take care of rip- and crosscutting ...

... it has dawned on me that that a MFT (multifunction table) would provide more than just another option for sawing - it could provide an ideal small assembly bench as well as a bench for holding small parts for routing and sanding. The balance was tipped when I recently acquired a (new) Festool AT 65EB track saw ... 20 years old but used once or twice at most.

I build a small workbench in solid timber: 1200 x 600mm pine frame and merbau top. Although I have a Domino, the construction was mortice-and-tenon. Since the top was not a standard MFT, it was necessary that I drill the 20mm holes. These were to be 96mm apart, as with the Festool MFT.

There are basically two methods to make one's own: the UFK Parf guide (drill), and the Trend template (router). The cheaper Trend template is $300 in Australia. Fortunately, I was offered the opportunity to make a template by a friend with a CNC. This went one better than the Trend, by doubling it in size. The template has 30mm holes and is used with a guide bush and 20mm router bit to create the 20mm holes.

The bench top was prepared by ensuring all sides were square, and then the template was squared to the front and right side ...

My old Elu router is at least 25 years old. It used a 30mm Trend guide bush fitted into a custom made adapter ..

The router bit is a Trend 20mm ...

I was also very pleased to see how well the dust collection worked. The Elu did not come with dust collection - this was not important 25 years ago! - and I adapted the fitting from a Dewalt to fit it.

Once all the holes were routed ...

... the template needed to be moved to complete the bench top. This was facilitated by two dogs which my friend had thoughtfully made for this purpose ...

The dogs are fitted into the existing holes to align the pattern ...

The remaining holes were drilled.

It only then occurred to me to check the bench top for flat - I should have done this earlier, although the top was flat when I first put it together. There was a 0.5mm gap at the centre, and I decided to plane it flat ...

The top was then sanded(80 grit) ...

... all is flat ...

The holes received a fine chamfer ...

... and the right side was bevelled at 20 degrees.

The reason for this is that the bench will also act as a outfeed for the jointer/thicknesser-planer and sliding tablesaw ...

Finally, the top received a coat of flat poly to protect it during glue-ups ..

Thanks for watching. I will return once a fence is built, and show the various work-holding methods.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Are you ok Derek???

I feel this is too much for me...

Stig will be making one next....

Then Jacob!!!

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Excellent result Derek. Beautiful.
It would be a shame to slice that fine top up by cutting into it with the tracksaw. It maybe worth routing in a replaceable sacrificial strip where you would typically crosscut with your tracksaw.

Did you have any issue with the dog holes tightening up when you sealed the top afterwards ? I found this when I made one in MRMDF and applied wax afterwards instead of doing it before boring the holes (parf 1 in my case).

I'm looking forward to your future posts.

Thanks. I do plan a sacrificial strip for the tracksaw.

The dog holes appear to be fine. Perhaps the solid wood does not expand as does MFF?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Nice bench Derek but out of curiosity why didn't you give the top to your buddy to bore all the holes on his CNC in one shot? CNC too small or was the top attached to the base by then? I suppose you have the template for the future when the buddy doesn't have the machine anymore.

Pete

Pete, a couple of reasons:

Firstly, Nick (with the CNC) lives in Sydney, which would make postage a killer for a bench top.

Secondly, as you anticipated, the template makes it possible to construct for others, or for replacements.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Are you ok Derek???

I feel this is too much for me...

Stig will be making one next....

Then Jacob!!!

James, fear not - I have not been kidnapped by aliens!

This is going to become a very handy assembly table/outfeed. Plus, it does not take up space.

In any event, a chunk of motivation comes from creating solutions to problems which do not exist! We will see …

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Building a MFT: Part Two - making a rail hinge​

In the first segment of the MFT build, the aim was to construct a bench top that would accept the Festool accessories for work holding. The MFT would serve for routing, sanding, carving, and as an outfeed for a jointer, slider and router table.

The 20mm holes were routed using a CNC-made template.

It needs to be understood that the reason for making the MFT was partly due the cost of purchasing one in Australia being excessively expensive (the Festool MFT sells for $1595), particularly so when I am not sure how much use it will get.

A large part of this cost lies in the rail hinge and rail fence, since a typical use of a MFT is for sawing ...

The stability and ease of adjustment of Festool rail hinge has come in for some criticism ...

... which has lead to aftermarket versions becoming available, such as this Dashboard hinge ...

This looks a beautiful piece of equipment, camera-level precise ... but it would cost around $700 landed in Oz.

So I decided to build my own. Two considerations - design and materials. The design is a mix of ideas, some taken from other builds on the Internet, Peter Millard's hinge design ..



.. and a few of my own. Fabricating in metal was not feasible as I do not have the tools to work it. Using ply wood, MDF and even hardwood was rejected as these are not durable enough. In the end I settled on nylon cutting boards - cheap and very hard wearing.

The nylon cannot be glued, and so all bolt holes were tapped for threads, and screwed together ...

The dimension across the top is 8" and the height is 5 1/2".

This holder is used for both the hinge side (where the rail is connected) and the pin side (where the rail is squared to the table) ...

Two key factors are present: each part is built with care for precision - errors are additive and will affect accuracy. Part of this is that the hinge must not have any play.

The rail hinge is set at a height below the bench top when not in use.

The two knobs (above right) tighten the connector to the rail ...

The rail connector has rebates to fit the rail ...

The pin in the pin holder is square and sized for a tight slip fit ...

EDIT: since building, the pin has been moved over to the left side of the holder. This is to increase/maximise the support the rail receives.

All together - the rail swings over ....

... and rests on the pin ...

The rail is able to be lifted up out of the way in readiness to position a board ..

All feels rock solid.

Checks for square against a rear fence ...

... and against the front of the bench (the ends are exactly parallel and all the holes are square) ...

Lastly, a stop is added to both hinge and pin holders, to allow exact re-positioning ...

All the best for the festive season.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Jacob]

Are you ok Derek???

I feel this is too much for me...

Stig will be making one next....

Then Jacob!!!

Not me. Nobody says quite what they are for.
Is it an accessory for a track saw or something?
Whatever the point is, I've missed it!
My work bench seems to be multifunctional already, without drilling holes all over it.

 

[MikeK]

This looks a beautiful piece of equipment, camera-level precise ... but it would cost around $700 landed in Oz.

Great build, Derek! I bought the Dashboard rail hinge two years ago for my MFT-style workbench when the set was only USD 217. Now the set is USD 289 (about AUD 428 today), which I think is still a bargain for what it is. I'm surprised no one in Australia has negotiated with Rob Schumacher about licensing the design for your market area. TSO Products licensed the GRS-16 PE Guide Rail Square to Festool, which I assume opened a much larger market for them. Festool buys the latches from TSO Products, but uses its own sources to machine the bracket and attach the latches.

My only gripe with my workbench is related to the ceiling height in my basement shop. I use the FS 1400/2 guide rail, but cannot lift the rail the full 90+ degrees. The end of the guide rail touches the ceiling at about the 60-degree point. My workbench is mobile, so I can't use a hook on the ceiling to hold the rail. Instead, I use a stick to prop it up while I reposition the wood. A spring-loaded pin at the 45-degree point would be nice (if you are reading this, Rob).

Two key factors are present: each part is built with care for precision - errors are additive and will affect accuracy. Part of this is that the hinge must not have any play.

Did you do anything special to the hinge? Similar hinges available here, even those intended for heavy duty door panels, are not suitable for these types of projects because there is too much play around the pivot pin and between the hinge plates.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Jacob, I don't know - yet - if the MFT will be useful. I believe that the design should make it a great assembly table, as well as provide for work-holding of the type that my bench is not suited for. Guide for routing dados? Etc, etc. I decided to build this one to find out. As cheaply as ..

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Great build, Derek! I bought the Dashboard rail hinge two years ago for my MFT-style workbench when the set was only USD 217. Now the set is USD 289 (about AUD 428 today), which I think is still a bargain for what it is. I'm surprised no one in Australia has negotiated with Rob Schumacher about licensing the design for your market area. TSO Products licensed the GRS-16 PE Guide Rail Square to Festool, which I assume opened a much larger market for them. Festool buys the latches from TSO Products, but uses its own sources to machine the bracket and attach the latches.

My only gripe with my workbench is related to the ceiling height in my basement shop. I use the FS 1400/2 guide rail, but cannot lift the rail the full 90+ degrees. The end of the guide rail touches the ceiling at about the 60-degree point. My workbench is mobile, so I can't use a hook on the ceiling to hold the rail. Instead, I use a stick to prop it up while I reposition the wood. A spring-loaded pin at the 45-degree point would be nice (if you are reading this, Rob).



Did you do anything special to the hinge? Similar hinges available here, even those intended for heavy duty door panels, are not suitable for these types of projects because there is too much play around the pivot pin and between the hinge plates.

Mike, add shipping to the Dashboard, and it will be closer to $600 AUD. I would be prepared to spend this IF use justifies the value for a track rail system. The bench will be useful, I estimate, if only as an outfeed and for assembly. Not sure yet about the saw as I do have a slider.

The hinge I used was the second I tried. The first showed up play only later. The current one? Perhaps I got lucky, but there is no play to speak of.

I agree, spring-loaded at 45 degrees makes more sense. The thought did cross my mind ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[starfish]

Building a MFT: Part Two - making a rail hinge​

In the first segment of the MFT build, the aim was to construct a bench top that would accept the Festool accessories for work holding. The MFT would serve for routing, sanding, carving, and as an outfeed for a jointer, slider and router table.

The 20mm holes were routed using a CNC-made template.

It needs to be understood that the reason for making the MFT was partly due the cost of purchasing one in Australia being excessively expensive (the Festool MFT sells for $1595), particularly so when I am not sure how much use it will get.

A large part of this cost lies in the rail hinge and rail fence, since a typical use of a MFT is for sawing ...

The stability and ease of adjustment of Festool rail hinge has come in for some criticism ...

... which has lead to aftermarket versions becoming available, such as this Dashboard hinge ...

This looks a beautiful piece of equipment, camera-level precise ... but it would cost around $700 landed in Oz.

So I decided to build my own. Two considerations - design and materials. The design is a mix of ideas, some taken from other builds on the Internet, Peter Millard's hinge design ..



.. and a few of my own. Fabricating in metal was not feasible as I do not have the tools to work it. Using ply wood, MDF and even hardwood was rejected as these are not durable enough. In the end I settled on nylon cutting boards - cheap and very hard wearing.

The nylon cannot be glued, and so all bolt holes were tapped for threads, and screwed together ...

The dimension across the top is 8" and the height is 5 1/2".

This holder is used for both the hinge side (where the rail is connected) and the pin side (where the rail is squared to the table) ...

Two key factors are present: each part is built with care for precision - errors are additive and will affect accuracy. Part of this is that the hinge must not have any play.

The rail hinge is set at a height below the bench top when not in use.

The two knobs (above right) tighten the connector to the rail ...

The rail connector has rebates to fit the rail ...

The pin in the pin holder is square and sized for a tight slip fit ...

EDIT: since building, the pin has been moved over to the left side of the holder. This is to increase/maximise the support the rail receives.

All together - the rail swings over ....

... and rests on the pin ...

The rail is able to be lifted up out of the way in readiness to position a board ..

All feels rock solid.

Checks for square against a rear fence ...

... and against the front of the bench (the ends are exactly parallel and all the holes are square) ...

Lastly, a stop is added to both hinge and pin holders, to allow exact re-positioning ...

All the best for the festive season.

Regards from Perth

Derek

simple and yet clever use of materials - very neat. I have been considering the bench dogs hinge for a while but don't really get enough use to justify the cost

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Building a MFT: Part Three - making a fence

One cannot test out a MFT as a saw table without it having a proper fence. There are a couple of very nice systems available, the Benchdogs in particular. But, in keeping with my aim to build the MFT for as little as possible, making the parts was the plan.

I like the Benchdogs “Fence Dogs”. While they are fairly inexpensive, Christmas loomed and shipping from the UK or USA to Australia would not. only double the price, but the ETA was a few months away. I am not that patient when there is a summer break. I had a cunning plan to make my own for pennies.

I did order and receive a short length of 20mm diameter UHMW rods. These proved to be stiff (a good thing), and I knew the material should be easy to work (another good thing if you do not have metal tools).

The challenge would be to drill a 6mm hole precisely square through a rod.

The rods were a smidgeon oversize - 20.5mm, which made them 0.55mm too wide. I turned them down on my wood lathe using a fine Japanese rasp to shave away the waste. This allowed the rods to sneak up on a tightish fit in the dog holes of the MFT.

Then I drilled a block of wood with a 20mm hole/mortice (in which to slide a rod) along with a 6mm hole (which would act as a guide through the centre of the rod). Careful measurements, as usual.

This was the final result, made up of the rods drilled, a 6mm thread and nut, and a knob to tighten all down.

The result was a very firm fitting even without anchoring the posts (typically, one would do this). The tightish slip fit was firm enough, and the fence sits squarely …

The fence is made from 6020 extrusion. I decided on a 800mm length (including the reduced height section), which is long enough to support most long boards (any longer and I would use my slider), and not be so long as to get in the way.

The final result …

(and, yes, there is more to come )

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Sideways]

Will the motor housing of your saw not bump into the fence when cutting thin stock ?
On mine that part overhangs the left edge of the track...
Just lie the fence down instead of standing it up.

Looks great Excellent job on the mechanisms.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Interesting Sideways. I have no idea - not used it yet! I first have to make a replaceable kerf strip.

EDIT: I was a bit confused by your question early on. The saw is a Festool AT65e (all of 20 years old but used once or twice! Purchased recently very cheaply).

The motor may or may not fowl the fence. I will check it out tomorrow ...

If there is an issue with thin stock, your tip is one I shall keep in mind.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[clogs]

altogether a superb job Derek.......just wish I could to buy hardwood like that here.....
God I miss Oak n Beech......
Used to scrounge Mahogany type hard wood from sold shop fronts.....happy days....

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Clogs, the wood I used - pine for the frame and laminated panels for the shelves, with a merbau laminated panel for the top - were as cheap as chips (well, that is a relative statement). Around $80 AUD (50 GBP) for all. Good hardwood is too precious for workshop furniture.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Dave Moore]

Great build, Derek! I bought the Dashboard rail hinge two years ago for my MFT-style workbench when the set was only USD 217. Now the set is USD 289 (about AUD 428 today), which I think is still a bargain for what it is. I'm surprised no one in Australia has negotiated with Rob Schumacher about licensing the design for your market area. TSO Products licensed the GRS-16 PE Guide Rail Square to Festool, which I assume opened a much larger market for them. Festool buys the latches from TSO Products, but uses its own sources to machine the bracket and attach the latches.

My only gripe with my workbench is related to the ceiling height in my basement shop. I use the FS 1400/2 guide rail, but cannot lift the rail the full 90+ degrees. The end of the guide rail touches the ceiling at about the 60-degree point. My workbench is mobile, so I can't use a hook on the ceiling to hold the rail. Instead, I use a stick to prop it up while I reposition the wood. A spring-loaded pin at the 45-degree point would be nice (if you are reading this, Rob).



Did you do anything special to the hinge? Similar hinges available here, even those intended for heavy duty door panels, are not suitable for these types of projects because there is too much play around the pivot pin and between the hinge plates.

I suggest I hinge that is welded to toolboxes etc as the play on these are minimal and could be drilled and bolted on. Tend to be a bit heavier but certainly much or no movement in them.
Regards,
Dave

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Building a MFT: Part 4 - Sliding Dovetail Insert

The MFT build ended with a fence and rail ...

Of course, now we do not want to cut into the nice, pristine, virginal surface, do we? Since the track hinge positions the track for a repeatable saw cut, what is needed is a replaceable insert for a saw kerf. The plan was to make this with a sliding dovetail. This could be left loose and removable, yet be solidly attached.

Marking out where the insert will be fitted ...

The track and saw are used to kerf the outside of the insert. This is 1/2" deep ..

Remove the waste with a power router ...

... and level with a router plane ...

I had made two inserts (one a spare), and these were doubled up to create an angle guide for a chisel. The dovetail was created this way ...

Insert installed ...

And, finally, a board was sawn using the track, leaving a fine kerf in the new insert ...

More build to come ...

Regards from Perth

Derek