Build a shed Mike's way, without concrete

[dom68]

ok mike thanks very much. im planning on building an 8x6 just for storage then if all goes well move on to a workshop.. poss 18x12ish.. thanks for all the info you post on here!

 

[dom68]

i actually have a old mate (not seen him for a long time!) who has a fencing business.. i used to work for him long time ago.. i was thinking i could ask him to provide the concrete if i provide the form..

would it make a difference if two lintels are used length ways to make up full length of shed?

cheers, dom.

 

[MikeG.]

:lol: I hope they're feet rather than metres!!

 

[MikeG.]

.......would it make a difference if two lintels are used length ways to make up full length of shed?

cheers, dom.

No, absolutely not a problem. I should have made that clear. Just keep the gaps tight (and at the corners) otherwise you'll have mice or wasps nesting in the void.

 

[dom68]

haha.. yes feet.. not sure id fit an 18 metre shed in the garden ;-)

ok thats bril.. thanks again

dom.

 

[HOJ]

We use 150mm X 100mm concrete lintels, as part of our construction method, we generally keep the lintels to a max length of 1200mm long, found that longer than that length they have a risk of having a camber in them, plus, we can handle them easier.

 

[Sideways]

I've learnt a great deal from these threads Mike, thanks for sharing the ideas behind them as well as the designs themselves.
I plan to adapt your design to build a small (1.8 x 1.2M) uninsulated storage shed raised up on concrete lintels as you recommend.
I propose to move the 9mm OSB3 skin to the outsideof the framing as I don't need either the insulation or the smooth inner walls, but do like the stiffness that it will add to the frame.
Having the framing open on the inside will aid air circulation and make it easier to see any problems as the years go by.

I'll then use 25mm battens to support the cladding off the OSB to reduce the transfer of damp from rain soaking into the cladding.
In this construction, is there any significant benefit from fixing a membrane to the outer surface of the OSB before fixing the battens ?
The shed is in a sheltered corner of the garden so driven rain should not be an issue.
Thanks.

 

[MikeG.]

For a store shed only (ie without human activity happening inside), what you are proposing is spot on. It is in fact exactly what I did for a shed I built (last year I think). No, you don't need a membrane over the OSB so long as you have counterbattens forming a 25mm airspace behind the cladding. For that sized building, ex 50x50 timber is plenty for the framing, with ex 100x50 for the lintel over the door.

 

[Sideways]

Perfect
Thanks Mike !

 

[dom68]

hi mike.. i seem to be only able to find 140x100 lintels. if i wanted to use 4x4 for the sole plate would this be acceptable? im thinking of the gap between the ground and the underside of the floor..

also is there any reason i shouldnt use concrete screws for fixing the sole plate to the lintel rather than the galvanised straps?

thanks dom.

 

[MikeG.]

Yeah, I should correct my drawing. 150 is the nominal size, including a mortar course, so the actual lintel is 140 x 100. That's fine. The reason for using straps is so as not to pierce the DPC. Buy a cheap roll of the universal galvanised MS strapping, and cut off the lengths you need. Screw and plug into the inside face of the lintels.

 

[dom68]

ok thats great.. thanks mike.

 

[flying haggis]

when I built my shed I wrapped the bottom edge of the bearer with 3" wide dampcourse plastic so that the wood didnt touch the concrete with the only fixings being at the ends on top

 

[MikeG.]

There's an in depth thread here documenting a workshop build using this technique. Well worth a read for anyone considering building a workshop this way.

 

[DBT85]

Mike,

I'd be interested in your opinion of the work being done by Ali Dymock on youtube and his website, trying to clarify details for people while he does his own "garden room".

His videos are quite informative for those of us not au fait with all of the details.

I'd especially like your opinion on how he's raised his floor up on block piers.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4UDFz ... qTA/videos

 

[matkinitice]

This is a good question.

Can you answer this Mike regarding the use of the block piers in the previous videos? I happened to watch some of these videos recently too so would ask the same thing myself.

Clip here is only a few mins long: youtu.be/Hyfbb2FRkV8?t=477

Much appreciated.

 

[MikeG.]

I'm only commenting on the floor and sub-structure.

Structurally fine. The massive downsides are two-fold. Firstly, there is a huge step up from ground level, and this has major implications for those trying to build below the Permitted Development heights, as well as for getting machinery into the building....never minding mobility issues and the practicality of climbing 3 steps (there will need to be a landing, so the steps will take quite some room, too). Secondly, creating an open void inaccessible to humans is a recipe for vermin to move in. If you provide a habitat for rats you will get rats. Badgers and foxes would also be interested in such a sheltered spot, safe from humans. Even bumble bees or wasps moving in under there could make the workshop unusable in some summer months.

The reason I went to the trouble to provide my design (in the OP) was to help people avoid those two major issues. My view is that building on piers is to be avoided at all costs.

 

[matkinitice]

Excellent, thanks for the comments.

I'm a house move away from building my workshop but good to know the options. This and the other thread has been very useful. I'll be sure to share my progress when the time comes.

 

[DBT85]

A late reply from me but thanks Mike! Are you not commenting on anything else because you were not asked or because your mother said if you have nothing nice to say then say nothing? :lol:

Still so many things to think about before I actually get to the point of building.

I assume that with the lintel design the void created under the floor doesn't become a vermin haven simply because there is no easy way in?

Moved the other questions to the other thread as I'd need a slab for my size.

 

[MikeG.]

......I assume that with the lintel design the void created under the floor doesn't become a vermin haven simply because there is no easy way in? ........

Correct.