BucksDad Workshop Build

[martin.pearson]

16A supply - it's a 3m x 3m shed. Whilst I would love to own 16A machinery, realistically anything 16A is probably going to be too big for the space anyway.

Really depends on what sort of projects you would like to be able to do & what you are going to use machinery for. I wanted a Bandsaw capable of resawing hardwood at a minimum of 16" because of the way I buy my wood. While its footprint is a little larger than smaller bandsaws there isn't a huge difference. I am sure there was a post not to long ago about a benchtop planer/thicknesser that was 16 amp so not all 16 A machinery is big lol

 

[Jameshow]

Windows allow the unwanted to see in and can be a weak point when it comes to breakins.

You could have a blind on the inside?

 

[2sheds]

Why not use SIPs for the walls, roof and floor- you'll have the shell erected in a day for that size. I've used them several times and they are brilliant, OSB and insulation all in one. Just wrap the outside in housewrap (the supplier/erector may do that for you), batten both sides and then clad the outside and plasterboard the inside. EDPM on the roof and you're done. Save a fortune on time-based costs like a carpenter, and makes buying everything much easier.

And I'd also use adjustable Quickjacks - Shed Base Kits - Plastic Shed Bases | Foundation Solutions - for the foundation, no digging, quick and easy to put in and cheaper and much better for the environment than concrete. Then put some C24 treated structural beams on the jacks, and build the floor/walls/roof from that. You'd have the whole thing done in a few days. I used the Quickjacks on a self-assembly 3m x 4m shed last year and they are excellent. You can also use concrete Jack Pads but I think the Quickjacks are just as good, if not better.

 

[Spectric]

You could have a blind on the inside?

or security grills on the outside. Has anyone thought about the crime rate in the Chilterns, it may be an ok place with a low number of scumbags.

 

[BucksDad]

Why not use SIPs for the walls, roof and floor- you'll have the shell erected in a day for that size. I've used them several times and they are brilliant, OSB and insulation all in one. Just wrap the outside in housewrap (the supplier/erector may do that for you), batten both sides and then clad the outside and plasterboard the inside. EDPM on the roof and you're done. Save a fortune on time-based costs like a carpenter, and makes buying everything much easier.

And I'd also use adjustable Quickjacks - Shed Base Kits - Plastic Shed Bases | Foundation Solutions - for the foundation, no digging, quick and easy to put in and cheaper and much better for the environment than concrete. Then put some C24 treated structural beams on the jacks, and build the floor/walls/roof from that. You'd have the whole thing done in a few days. I used the Quickjacks on a self-assembly 3m x 4m shed last year and they are excellent. You can also use concrete Jack Pads but I think the Quickjacks are just as good, if not better.

Thanks for the comments @2sheds and I will certainly get some prices on those this week. Anyone you'd recommend?

Not using a concrete base means you gain 3 problems
- A void you have to keep vermin proof
- Lose roof height (which at max 2.5m is almost untenable)
- Have a massive step over into the workshop

As a result really not keen on the other options but feel free to change my mind

 

[Spectric]

Not using a concrete base means you gain 3 problems

But you will also gain warmth by having the floor off the ground and not concrete. If you ever watch people building cabins in Canada or Alaska they leave a void underneath that then becomes storage but you don't want it that high up!

My large shed sits on nine concrete plinths rather than a single slab, and then a wooden frame sits on these which is above ground level. As for that step over, use a ramp if needed.

 

[2sheds]

I've used SuperSIPs before on a 47.5m2 studio. 10 years ago cost including erection and delivery was £12k. You can get a kit of SIPs from them, or you can buy panels and glue and cut them yourselves. I prefer to buy kits, you get everything you need for the shell and they'll often erect for a reasonable fee. If you buy panels you need to cut out for windows and doors. This 3.6 x 3 studio kit from SuperSIPs is ~£2700 + VAT, delivery and erection. This includes walls, roof and floor. You can get a custom quote if you want e.g. different door and window positions.
SIPs Studio Kits Collections • SuperSips - SIP Panels and Garden Studios

Personally, I hate concrete and only use it if nothing else will do. The planning regs are a bit of an issue - again personally I just ignored them (!!) but that's not something many people would be prepared to do. On my current 3m x 4m shed I put some 200mm steel rodent mesh all around the perimeter to control unwanted visitors. And yes there is a bit of a step into the shed but I will be building a ramp once I've finished insulating the inside.

Best of luck with the project.

 

[Molynoox]

Why not use SIPs for the walls, roof and floor- you'll have the shell erected in a day for that size. I've used them several times and they are brilliant, OSB and insulation all in one. Just wrap the outside in housewrap (the supplier/erector may do that for you), batten both sides and then clad the outside and plasterboard the inside. EDPM on the roof and you're done. Save a fortune on time-based costs like a carpenter, and makes buying everything much easier.

And I'd also use adjustable Quickjacks - Shed Base Kits - Plastic Shed Bases | Foundation Solutions - for the foundation, no digging, quick and easy to put in and cheaper and much better for the environment than concrete. Then put some C24 treated structural beams on the jacks, and build the floor/walls/roof from that. You'd have the whole thing done in a few days. I used the Quickjacks on a self-assembly 3m x 4m shed last year and they are excellent. You can also use concrete Jack Pads but I think the Quickjacks are just as good, if not better.

quickjacks look interesting, not seen those before.
with SIPS, are they strong enough for say a 3m wide set of bifolds? I assume the headers are just timber?

Martin

 

[Molynoox]

another option on your foundations are groundscrews. I used these on my workshop build and they were great. I set a nominal 50mm ventilation gap so the timber floating / suspended base sits 50mm off the ground which I made up with composite decking outside. Typically your ground will often have a slight slope anyway so usually you have to deal with some sort of a gap/step up, so I just designed in the decking to cope with that. I also excavated down a bit on one side to reduce the step up.

Martin

 

[2sheds]

SIPs are very strong. I had a 6m span internally on my old studio, with a big Glulam beam holding the roof up. Most of the garden rooms advertised are SIPs built, and many of those feature bifolds. Yes the header would be timber or Glulam depending on the strength needed. SIPs are also used a lot in Scotland, Canada and US for large houses. SIPs are generally certified for up to four storeys.
Cheers
Steve

 

[Molynoox]

cheers Steve, the SIPS look cool, and I ummed and ahhhd about using them on my 9x4m build recently, but in the end I wanted flexibility to make last minute design changes so went traditional route
I am considering them for future builds though, interesting to get your thoughts
they could use RHS or flitch beam too I suppose, doesnt have to be glulam does it?

Martin

 

[Jones]

Bifolds can be top hung or bottom rolling so don't necessarily need a particularly strong beam over.There are various arguments for which is best, personally I don't see much difference.

 

[Molynoox]

Bifolds can be top hung or bottom rolling so don't necessarily need a particularly strong beam over.There are various arguments for which is best, personally I don't see much difference.

I think I would respectfully disagree with all of that
Martin

 

[BucksDad]

I currently am waiting on a quote for the SIPs... will update the costings when I get it as this does seem to be a quicker / more cost effective way to go

 

[2sheds]

cheers Steve, the SIPS look cool, and I ummed and ahhhd about using them on my 9x4m build recently, but in the end I wanted flexibility to make last minute design changes so went traditional route
I am considering them for future builds though, interesting to get your thoughts
they could use RHS or flitch beam too I suppose, doesnt have to be glulam does it?

Martin

AFAIK most kit suppliers use either structural timber or glulam, but you can use anything that is strong enough, although of course if you are building something that comes under building control (32m2 or more I think) then you'll need structural engineering calcs for BC.

SIPs allow relatively thin walls compared to a standard e.g. brick/cavity/block wall, so for the same external floor area you get more internal space. Or, you go for similar wall thickness and get lots more insulation, and lower heating bills. But like for like thermally, you'll need a thinner beam to support openings, which might push you towards a glulam, fitch or steel.

 

[Molynoox]

that's a good point about the wall thickness driving potentially thinner beams
I think when I looked at Glulams alongside the usual suspects I didn't really consider them very seriously because they didn't seem to come in suitable sizes for sheds / garden rooms. They seemed to start at about 220mm depth or so which was a bit too thick for a permitted development build and associated 2.5m height restriction
I probably didn't look hard enough as I am sure you can get them in smaller sizes
the other constraint is the weight of them - with the other beam options you can assemble them in situ if required meaning you can lift each component into place individually, instead of all in one go
I'm going to have another look at these though, like I say I think I gave up too early. I probably did the same with SIPS in reality....
Martin

 

[BucksDad]

Well I think the suggestion of SIPs was a good idea. It took a little back and forth with the company to explain the brick plinth to them but once that clicked, I've now got the price back and it's £3k for a 3.6 x 3.2m (external) SIPs kit which includes delivery + the outside already wrapped with breather membrane and cladding battens on a 5 week lead time. I reckon I can rope in my neighbour to assist me with getting the SIPs panels up and it does look quite straight forward.

I think can reduce the contingency to 7.5% as there will be far fewer fixings required and more fixed costs. Obviously the big saving is the cost of someone doing it. I've currently left in £250 for one day for a carpenter to hang the door and put in the lock etc. I've not that done before and definitely don't want to screw it up.

Anyway, that comes to a grand total of £7120 which compared to the £9k at the top of this thread is a nice saving. I could probably save a few hundred on cladding but probably not worth it.

Now I just need the landscaper to confirm when he's going to start on the garden and then I can get the SIPs ordered.

Will post an update when there's something to show!

 

[Jameshow]

Well I think the suggestion of SIPs was a good idea. It took a little back and forth with the company to explain the brick plinth to them but once that clicked, I've now got the price back and it's £3k for a 3.6 x 3.2m (external) SIPs kit which includes delivery + the outside already wrapped with breather membrane and cladding battens on a 5 week lead time. I reckon I can rope in my neighbour to assist me with getting the SIPs panels up and it does look quite straight forward.

I think can reduce the contingency to 7.5% as there will be far fewer fixings required and more fixed costs. Obviously the big saving is the cost of someone doing it. I've currently left in £250 for one day for a carpenter to hang the door and put in the lock etc. I've not that done before and definitely don't want to screw it up.

Anyway, that comes to a grand total of £7120 which compared to the £9k at the top of this thread is a nice saving. I could probably save a few hundred on cladding but probably not worth it.

Now I just need the landscaper to confirm when he's going to start on the garden and then I can get the SIPs ordered.

Will post an update when there's something to show!

Whose putting the cladding on?
Put aside another day for the chippie to do that too???

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I can understand the temptation to design and build your own, but you then have all the hassle and risk of making it work.

Before you hit the go button you may like to look at buying a complete insulated building (eg: home office) which could be quickly installed on a prepared base.

Cost may be little different to the diy approach. If there are problems (water ingress etc) you have someone to blame and (probably) a guarantee. They will buy materials in bulk, have a proven (one hopes) detailed design and construction process, ability to install and sign of electrics etc..

 

[2sheds]

Well I think the suggestion of SIPs was a good idea. It took a little back and forth with the company to explain the brick plinth to them but once that clicked, I've now got the price back and it's £3k for a 3.6 x 3.2m (external) SIPs kit which includes delivery + the outside already wrapped with breather membrane and cladding battens on a 5 week lead time. I reckon I can rope in my neighbour to assist me with getting the SIPs panels up and it does look quite straight forward.

I think can reduce the contingency to 7.5% as there will be far fewer fixings required and more fixed costs. Obviously the big saving is the cost of someone doing it. I've currently left in £250 for one day for a carpenter to hang the door and put in the lock etc. I've not that done before and definitely don't want to screw it up.

Anyway, that comes to a grand total of £7120 which compared to the £9k at the top of this thread is a nice saving. I could probably save a few hundred on cladding but probably not worth it.

Now I just need the landscaper to confirm when he's going to start on the garden and then I can get the SIPs ordered.

Will post an update when there's something to show!

That's not a bad price at all considering the increased cost of timber and insulation, especially around this area where demand hugely exceeds supply. Regarding DIY v full home office, I found the price of the all-inclusive route was very expensive compared to DIY (roughly 2.5-3x) considering that most of the hard stuff has already been done. Whilst I didn't build my SIPs studio, the erectors just used expanding foam for any gaps or cuts (there shouldn't be many but...) and lots of nails to assemble. Hire/buy a Paslode for this and just take your time. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how straightforward it is.

Looking forward to the photos. I'll dig out some of mine when I get a minute and post them.