British Seagull motor rebuild?

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I don't think there will be much wrong with the plug, I think it's more likely a lack of magnetism in the flywheel from sitting for so long and various dirty contacts in the LT side.
 
nev":73t89aqo said:
(Champion) 8com is indeed the plug number and a tad unusual, check here for a list of alternatives
http://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-champion-s ... gotoupsell
Thanks Nev. The plug connects to the holder using a screw thread - will they all have that, and is there likely to be a metric/ imperial problem, or are all threads the same? And when it says alternatives, does that mean any of those would work ok?

novocaine":73t89aqo said:
I don't think there will be much wrong with the plug, I think it's more likely a lack of magnetism in the flywheel from sitting for so long and various dirty contacts in the LT side.
I really wanted to try spinning the flywheel but couldn't figure how to connect a socket to the drill! We tried a bit of wood held by a screw and driven by a screwdriver attachment but the screw thread tore through the wood after a couple of turns. WHat would be a better way of connecting them?

Thanks.
 
I have an extension bar that fits in a chuck, I guess others don't. :)

how about a piece of hardwood cut square to suit the socket then roundish to suit the drill chuck?
 
Yep! With the sheath knife he made/ put a handle on recently we whittled the square end of a piece of oak to round and hey presto...
IMG_1456.jpg

We thought maybe if we can't get it running properly, we just take a cordless drill with us when we head out to sea. (Can't claim credit for that idea, saw it on a Seagull forum.)
Sadly, no improvement on the sparks. Definitely going to try a plug if we can get the right one.
 

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Thats a much better way to spin up a Seagull. Remember my dad nearly knocking my mums teeth out with a the old rope starter :D
 
Chris152":13zxguzo said:
Thanks Nev. The plug connects to the holder using a screw thread - will they all have that, and is there likely to be a metric/ imperial problem, or are all threads the same? And when it says alternatives, does that mean any of those would work ok?

I would imagine that any of those listed would physically fit (i.e. the correct thread of the correct length that screws into the head and have the correct electrical resistance) but some may have a solid top to use a different cap. (Some plugs have a solid top and others the solid cap connector unscrews to reveal the thread.) As long as it has a thread-on top I would guess you're good to go.
Googling The NGK AB-6 AB6 (2910) it comes up as listed for a seagull on e.g. eBay.
 
Beau":1rt3snro said:
Thats a much better way to spin up a Seagull. Remember my dad nearly knocking my mums teeth out with a the old rope starter :D

I have dodged either my Dad's fist clutching the plastic handle or the rope as it came whipping past my head more times than I care to remember, we used to borrow an old Seagull outboard to put on the dinghy to go fishing, looking back I think rowing there might have burned less calories than starting the outboard!
 
Really interesting thread please keep us informed with progress.
I think that if you clean the contact points and introduce fresh petrol it may well start.
If you are not used to working with engines be prepared for a suprise when it starts and make sure you know how to stop it.
 
Aah stopping it. My dad had one, it leaked oil everywhere & left an oil slick on the water. They get carbon'd up easily & then will run on when you shut the petrol off. Basically running on excess lube oil.
Dads one did this & the only way to stop it was to face it grimly & make a firm powerful grab for the flywheel with both hands thereby stalling it.
We did run a Seagull outboard race at the yacht club years ago & it was great fun.
 
Bath plug. On a chain, connected to the frame near the carb. Stuff the bath plug in the air intake.

Used to do that on big old motorcycle engines.
 
The air filters a brass trumpet with a bit of wire mesh in it. Shut the choke and put your hand over it. If that doesnt stop it pull the cap off the plug.

If all else fails push it over the side, theres a few of these at the bottom of various lakes.
 
Have to admit, I've no idea how you're supposed to stop it - can you imagine? I'd probably have waited til it ran out of fuel. But that's some way down the line, we're still working on the spark bit of the 'does it turn, does it spark, does it get fuel' guide.

I called and spoke with the chap at Classic Seagulls about the spark plug as there seem to be different lengths of the same plug and apparently if it's too long it'll interfere with the gubbins (hit the piston?). So I've got a new plug on order, and he suggested a new low tension wire at 50p as he said these are often the first problem to look for as they move around.

One thing he said that was incredibly helpful was that it's best not to crack open the crank case (we now know what that is having watched a youtube video on how to work on one) nor to remove the engine block as gaskets for these are no longer available new - good job we didn't just go ahead and strip it down at the outset. Apparently the head gasket is fine to replace.

Reading your comments about seagulls is funny - dad used this to power the mirror dinghy he built with my brother (I was too young to be involved) and I still remember the feeling as it powered us around the waters of South Devon and the river Avon in Wiltshire. I also remember the day we didn't have it and I managed to drop a rowlock into the water in a deep channel and having to wind our way back somehow to shore. Happy days.

ps Nev - the plug I ordered is a NGK AB6 and apparently there's another that's compatible but I can't remember who makes it. Thanks.
 
There should not be different lengths of spark plug with the same number, that negates having numbers. measure the length of the thread to make sure you get the right one.

DO NOT yank the plug lead off unless you are wearing insulated gloves or have a lump of dry rag, and even then not if you have a pacemaker. having stopped several engines this way in the dim and distant past, 20,000 volts up your arm is a feeling that stays with you forever.

I dont know this particular engine, but magneto units usually have an earth wire connected to the bolt in the centre of the points cover, which "should" lead to a flip switch and then onto earth (ground) to kill the circuit.

apart from head gaskets, which are normally copper / paper laminates, any other gasket will be thick paper, which can nowadays be replaced with a silicone gasket goo.
 
sunnybob":1iasb2sv said:
There should not be different lengths of spark plug with the same number, that negates having numbers. measure the length of the thread to make sure you get the right one.

DO NOT yank the plug lead off unless you are wearing insulated gloves or have a lump of dry rag, and even then not if you have a pacemaker. having stopped several engines this way in the dim and distant past, 20,000 volts up your arm is a feeling that stays with you forever.

I dont know this particular engine, but magneto units usually have an earth wire connected to the bolt in the centre of the points cover, which "should" lead to a flip switch and then onto earth (ground) to kill the circuit.

apart from head gaskets, which are normally copper / paper laminates, any other gasket will be thick paper, which can nowadays be replaced with a silicone gasket goo.
Thanks Bob. I got confused about the plugs, which isn't surprising - so called Classic Seagulls to be sure I was getting the right thing, which is this:
https://www.classicseagulls.co.uk/index ... oduct_id=3
I'd searched the net and found this, which seems to have the same numbers but which has more thread/ looked longer than the old one on the motor?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NGK-SPARK-PLUG ... B000CSGX3I
That made me unsure what I was doing - and I guess it's confused as I'm not getting the same as the original, just one that's compatible. I'm sure I'm missing something.

Doingupthehouse":1iasb2sv said:
Hi,
You may already be aware of this, but Sheridan Marine stock most spare parts and workshop manuals for British Seagull motors.
https://www.sheridanmarine.com/category/british-seagull-outboard-spares
Simon.
I'd seen they have a workshop manual on Seagulls, reckon it's worth getting - the boy tends to do everything by phone which works ok most of the time, but it's not the same as having it there on paper, making your own notes and that. Well, that's what I reckon. Cheers.
 
I found a Seagull motor a few years ago. A neighbour moved out the same day we were going on holiday for a month. Came back to find a Seagull propped up against their fence. The house was still unoccupied, so asked round and nobody knew where it came from. I put the motor in my garage to shelter it from the weather, and stapled a note to the fence in case the owner came looking. No one ever did, so when I moved house a year later I took it with me, and now it's in my attic for when I have the time to restore the motor and put it to use.

I did toy with the idea of mounting it alongside my little 4stroke 2.5hp Yamaha, but on a 12ft inflatable there wouldn't be a lot of room. Maybe on a kayak instead? It's light enough.
 
According to google, champion 8COM equivalent is a D16.
If you cant get that, here is a bewilderingly long list of equivalents.
http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com ... AMP_PN/D16

Find out what manufacturers plugs are available near you. maybe print the list and take it (and the old plug) with you, although any shop selling plugs should have a comparison chart.

The thread length is of PARAMOUNT importance. Its a short thread. If you fit a long thread it will punch straight into the piston crown on the first swing.
 
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