cornucopia
Established Member
hello all as requested here is a goblet i did today in spalted beech.
This paticular piece of wood came from the very edge of a large log, the genral rule of thumb is the further away from the pith the more stable the blank will be, there is nothing worse than making a lovely goblet for it to dry like the leaning tower!!
here it is between centers
knocked into the round
pop a dovetail spigot on one or both ends in this case
this blank is a bit too long for just a goblet so the far left will be the goblet and the right will be for a box later
heres the goblet blank mounted in my chuck
its important to have the dovetail like this, firmly seated againt the jaws
here it is marked out for bowl stem and base
i rough shape the outside of the bowl making sure to leave plenty of wood for strength whilist hollowing.
hollowed out using a spindle gouge on its side, the deeper you go the more difficult it becomes so for learning i would only go 2" ish deep.
a bit more shaping now on the outside
sand and finish the bowl now as you cannot go back once you start on the stem
slowly work your way down the stem working in short sections
sand and finish the stem and base now
part of and hand finish the base making sure to cut it concave
there you go a simple goblet
i left this stem quite thick as spalted beech is not very strong.
This paticular piece of wood came from the very edge of a large log, the genral rule of thumb is the further away from the pith the more stable the blank will be, there is nothing worse than making a lovely goblet for it to dry like the leaning tower!!
here it is between centers
knocked into the round
pop a dovetail spigot on one or both ends in this case
this blank is a bit too long for just a goblet so the far left will be the goblet and the right will be for a box later
heres the goblet blank mounted in my chuck
its important to have the dovetail like this, firmly seated againt the jaws
here it is marked out for bowl stem and base
i rough shape the outside of the bowl making sure to leave plenty of wood for strength whilist hollowing.
hollowed out using a spindle gouge on its side, the deeper you go the more difficult it becomes so for learning i would only go 2" ish deep.
a bit more shaping now on the outside
sand and finish the bowl now as you cannot go back once you start on the stem
slowly work your way down the stem working in short sections
sand and finish the stem and base now
part of and hand finish the base making sure to cut it concave
there you go a simple goblet
i left this stem quite thick as spalted beech is not very strong.