Brass or Brassed?

[MorrisWoodman12]

A simple question but one to which I don't have an answer. When screwing into oak a steel screw is really a no-no unless you're not worried about the staining. Brass screws, having no steel don't stain the oak but what about steel screws that have been brassed? Or should I be using stainless steel?
I'm sure many of you will know the answer to this or at least have an opinion.
Thanks. Martin

 

[TheTiddles]

It’ll slow down the process, but won’t stop it. However for it to happen fast you need it to be quite wet, in drier timber you can get away with steel screws in oak so indoors with dry wood you’ll be fine with steel screws. Outdoors I’d really go stainless as brass is mechanically a bit naff

Aidan

 

[pe2dave]

It’ll slow down the process, but won’t stop it. However for it to happen fast you need it to be quite wet, in drier timber you can get away with steel screws in oak so indoors with dry wood you’ll be fine with steel screws. Outdoors I’d really go stainless as brass is mechanically a bit naff

Aidan

My experience is different Aiden? Made a block to hold 5 sets of darts. Oak was 6 years inside. within 4 months the tip of the darts were showing first signs of rust.

 

[Lignafera]

Your best option would be stainless screws, as the last oak piece I made the screws were brass and I wrung the head off a screw.

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

Thanks chaps. Your comments are always useful. One point of note is that whenever I have used plain brass in oak I have always "pre-drilled" it with a steel screw of the same size. Then there is less tendency to wring the brass heads off.
Martin

 

[TheTiddles]

My experience is different Aiden? Made a block to hold 5 sets of darts. Oak was 6 years inside. within 4 months the tip of the darts were showing first signs of rust.

I’d expect that. Tannins from the oak are renowned for making steel rust. But a screw with a passivated coating in a hole is rarely inspected for minor surface corrosion, as nobody cares.