Box Sash Windows

[opener]

Jfc is right about wedging the tenons but the correct joint for the meeting rails when there is no joggle horn is as shown here:

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Nx2R ... &ct=result

(needs modifying slightly for large double-glazing rebate)

Cheers
Malcolm

 

[agbagb]

Thanks Malcom, Thats the kind of info I researched that lead to the dovetails Iv'e used.
Do you know why I should use wedges on the tenons? Sorry if I'm sounding like my son - Why? Why? Why?
Andy

 

[opener]

Hi Andy
All joinery tenons are wedged to keep the joint tight should the glue fail over the years, belt and braces.
It's also convenient when assembling the sash to knock the wedges in and remove the cramps without waiting for the glue to dry.
Cheers
Malcolm

 

[agbagb]

Thanks Malcom,
I like the look of "Fox wedges", (thin wedges into saw cuts in the tenon) so i don't have to taper the sides of the mortice.
Andy

 

[opener]

If you have a morticing machine it is a doddle to taper the mortice sides.

Make a wedge 10-12" long, the same thickness as the stile and the same angle as the glue wedges.

Drill the face side of the mortice normally and put the large wedge underneath the stile to mortice the back side. Hey presto - angled mortice sides.

That is the traditional type of wedging in windows and doors rather than cutting into the tenons. (Don't know if it makes it any tighter though)

Cheers
Malcolm

 

[agbagb]

Cheers Malcolm, With that tip it's going to be so quick to do, I'm going to find it hard to justify not wedging. Even if it is "just to be on the safe side".

Andy

 

[agbagb]

Ever the reble, only one way to find out, I've fox wedged the tennons. I'll be kicking myself if they fail before I've popped mi clogs.

Andy

 

[agbagb]

Just an update, all the woodworking for my box sash now finished.
Just painting, I'm trying holkam linseed paint, glazing and fitting to go.

 

[agbagb]

Another Update.
The window is in and working.

A few little design mods and I'll get on with others.

Andy

 

[joiner_sim]

Looking good. :lol:

 

[agbagb]

How do you stop driving rain?

As far as I tell from TRADA advice, labyrinth as much as you can and have a void area behind the gap before the seal. The void area will lower the air pressure and drop any water. As long as the seal is good, water shouldn't be "sucked" in to the seal.

That's the theory, I'm hoping it will work in practice
Andy

I hope we'll see lots of WIP pictures![/quote]

We've had a few weeks of weather up against the window. I've slid a piece of paper up the side, so far the brush seals have stayed dry.

So Far so Good.
Andy

 

[agbagb]

In to the second Winter, Still no problems..... apart from a weight cord stretching, should have tied it with more clearance. Livin and Learnin.