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kinsella

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Dagenham, London
I decided to build some boxes for my kids, i then decided to build a jig which i found on the internet. Whilst Matthias Wandel jig is good, i thought i wanted something more simple. A few links were posted here which then triggered my build of the jig and then the box.
box-joint-jig-sketchup-plans-free-of-charge-t87240.html
 

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then the box
 

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Excellent project and what lovely boxes. Now you've got me inspired. I followed the link you gave and contacted "graham orm" who emailed me with his free plans and if you are reading this Graham, thank you very much. It seems from your photos that I have the same table saw but cannot make the sliding table as yours as I have modified the right hand side to take an extension to the table top.I am therefore going to adapt it to be used with the sliding table that came with the saw.
When I have completed it I will post pics.

Alan.
 
Alan
I did the same with mine. The right hand takes the overhang of the router table and the router table then become the extension. The rails on the side of the Scheppach TKU site saw are always in position to use the jig, the cross cut shed and the route table. Everything is on wheels.
 
Right then here's my effort for the box jig.

Iv'e dowelled it to the sliding table so that it can be mounted in the exact position whenever I use it.



[/[URL=http://s3.photobucket.com/us...ms/y79/wyntog1/P6100025_zps1ipg4wat.jpg[/img]]






I did a few tests as I could see problems with what the blade kerf was relative to the carriage travel for one revolution of the handle.

Using a digital vernier this is what I found

For 2 revs 3.01 mm
4 revs 6.00 mm
6 revs 8.99 mm
8 revs 12.00 mm
10 revs 14.98 mm
12 revs 17.99 mm

I did this for 24 turns and was constant plus or minus .01 mm

the blade kerf is 3.00 mm.

First trials were a disaster. Couldn't get the spacing anywhere near correct.

I lined up the work piece touching the left hand side of the blade. I then did 4 turns of the handle making a cut each time. I then have to make 7 turns of the handle before making the next cut.

This gives me a 6 mm profile. It's ok on material above 9 mm but find a sloppy fit on anything less.

Hope this may be of use to anyone else making a jig :shock: :shock:


Alan.

Edit The screwed rod is 10 mm.
 
Alan
.01mm a sloppy fit! Are you a perfectionist :) The M10 rod you have has a pitch of 1.5mm obviously. In hindsight i should have got an M10 with a 1mm pitch which then makes the mental calculations more accurate. A clever way of using the sliding carriage by the way. Your right we have the exact same machine, i hardly ever use it though, i found i kept walking into it and swearing at it every time. So i took it off. The sled i build does the same job but better. I don't think i every cut any angle on it other than 90deg.

Your top puts mine to shame, it looks like you could still eat your dinner off it. must get some cleaner on mine to tidy it up now.
 
Hello kinsella.
The sloppy fit I think is more to do with operator error rather than the accuracy of the jig.The only blade I have with a 3 mm kerf is a 72 tooth 12" blade and I feel I was pushing it into the blade too fast and therefore getting a bit of blade wobble. :oops: :oops:
I made a base on wheels for my saw and was surprised how much more room I seemed to have being able to push it out of the way when not in use.

Alan.
 

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