Bowls with a faceplate

[Oakbear]

Hi folks, i'm a newbie and have been turning for just a few months.

I hope this isn't too daft a question, but google provides no answers, and i couldn't find it on a forum search....

How do you turn both sides of a bowl using just a faceplate?!

I learnt on a 2 day course on a fancy pro lathe, but have had to get used to my terrible cheap Nordstrum thing. I only have a 4 point prong and a faceplate to work with, and cannot find a chuck to fit the 3/4" x 8tpi thread anywhere. (Anyone know where to get one?)

I understand how to screw a blank onto the plate, but surely it'll ruin the other side when you turn it round?!

Thanks in advance, and apologies for my newbie dumbness......

 

[PowerTool]

Hello,and welcome to the forum

Before the advent of modern chucks,the bowl blank would be mounted on a faceplate (screwed on) - this would be the underneath of the bowl.Then turn the sides/hollow out the middle,sand,finish,and remove from the faceplate.
The underneath then has holes in from the screws,which were either filled with filler (often glue/sawdust mix) or covered over with baize or similar.
If you Google "reverse chucking" or "jam chuck",should find some ways to hold a bowl when turned this way,and finish off the base.

Andrew.

 

[Oakbear]

Thanks very much Andrew!

I had suspected similar, but wondered how to get a good finish on the bottom and avoid screw holes.
I do like the idea of jam chucks etc though, so think i'll be experimenting a bit!

Any more ideas?
Or even better anyone know where to get a 3/4"x8tpi chuck of thread adaptor?

*Edited to remove url for jam chucks. Is posting links against the rules?! It wasn't spam! Honest!

 

[loz]

Hi,

I'm fairly new also,

What i have been doing to reverse is. Mounting a platter size blank to the faceplace/chuck, truing the face, then cutting a groove with the parting tool - at the diameter of the bowl rim. The rim might if exact/and round ! fit into this groove and secure with the tail stock.

When almost done, tape the bowl to the platter chuck with lots of masking tape, to finish cleaning the base.

This obviously best for full rim bowls, not for natural edge etc.....

Loz

 

[CHJ]

Welcome to the forum Oakbear, Do a search for Donut-Chucks and you will get lots of hits for something similar to this:

Link to details on how to make this:

Or another one utilising your face plate:

If you make one to attach to your faceplate then try to drill a couple of bolt location holes that will allow relocation in the same position each time you re-mount it.

 

[wabbitpoo]

I speak as a novice too, but I have seen a faceplate screwed to a spare scrap, and the bowl is hot glued to that instead. This means no screw holes. You still have to separate the two, and handle the glue during the final clean up of the base, but thats easier than filling screw holes.

 

[big soft moose]

*Edited to remove url for jam chucks. Is posting links against the rules?! It wasn't spam! Honest!

its not against the rules (so long as it isnt spam) but there is a "spam trap" which mutilates links posted by people who dont have very many posts to their name - to frustrate random spamage

its goes away after 3 posts so you are only one away from being able to post links

 

[big soft moose]

I speak as a novice too, but I have seen a faceplate screwed to a spare scrap, and the bowl is hot glued to that instead. This means no screw holes. You still have to separate the two, and handle the glue during the final clean up of the base, but thats easier than filling screw holes.

the best way to do that is to stick a layer of newspaper between the two bits of wood which creates a weak point which you can then cut through with a parting tool once you are done.

another way is to use double sided carpet tape between the two - use two pieces one on each surface and burnish them down with a screw drive handle - the peel of both sticky side and stick them together.

 

[cornucopia]

hello 3/4" by 8tpi isnt listed on any of the main woodturning sites but that doesnt mean it cant be done, i would contact someone like stiles and bates and ask them if they can help

another way to get by without a chuck is wastefull but works is to turn the bowl on just the one faceplate fixing, you have to leave a bit of scrap wood for the screws and access to the bottom but it can work as this is how i did it for a few years. its also how i still do my vase/hollow forms and flying saucer shaped forms. see piccy below

 

[Oakbear]

Thanks everyone, you have been really helpful.

(And i haven't felt like an ***** for asking a silly question. Expect many more daft questions in future!).

As regards chucks i figure my options seem to be limited to some kind of custom job, which strikes me as a false economy when my lathe is so shoddy. I plan on upgrading as soon as i have some cash anyway.

Just one last question. What length screws are sufficient to hold a piece to the faceplace? I know it will vary with the piece, but say a 8" x 4" bowl blank in medium hardwood?

 

[user 5053]

You can only do one side using a face plate and the inside using an expanding dovetail chuck. Most pros tend to leave the recess or screwholes. It is regarded as a little amateurish and a waste of time filling screw holes, cleaning bases, sticking green felt etc. If the recess is there you can always put the bowl back on the lathe to re polish, reshape etc.

 

[loz]

It is regarded as a little amateurish and a waste of time cleaning bases,

:shock: :shock:

 

[big soft moose]

You can only do one side using a face plate and the inside using an expanding dovetail chuck. Most pros tend to leave the recess or screwholes. It is regarded as a little amateurish and a waste of time filling screw holes, cleaning bases, sticking green felt etc. If the recess is there you can always put the bowl back on the lathe to re polish, reshape etc.

oakbear specifically said that he didn't have a chuck (and explained why) and wanted advice on turning with a face plate only - so why do you feel the need to put him down ?

Also you are incorrect - i dont know any pro who would leave screw holes in their work - the received method for those without a chuck is to leave a foot for the screwholes and part off as helpfully illustrated by cornucopia above.

in fact even those with a chuck would normally part off from the spiggot or remount on a jam chuck or cole/button jaws to turn the spiggot away.

leaving a chuck recess is sometimes acceptable if it fits with the design (and a common habit for those who turn for pleasure) but it is not the routine for a proffesional turner.

(except in as much for part turning seasoning and rechucking)

 

[Anonymous]

(...)It is regarded as a little amateurish and a waste of time filling screw holes, cleaning bases, sticking green felt etc. (...).

By whom apart from you?

Getting back to the topic...

Oakbear ... the only daft question is the one you don't ask :wink:

(it's the daft answers you need to ignore :lol: )

You've probably gleaned enough info to produce a bowl or three. keep your eye out for any bargain lathe+ chuck deals... s/h or new... make sure it has a thread which is well supported e.g. 1 x 8, 3/4 x 16 etc :idea: :wink:

 

[Oakbear]

Thanks again folks!
I don't think anyone meant to put me down, and this seems a very friendly forum.
I not too fussy, but i think screw holes would bug me too much, and i'm not a fan of baise tbh.

I love the fact that different ways of looking at a task open up new possibilities for designs!
I think i'll try turning off bowls and having some waste first i think, but i'll also have a play with homemade chucks.

That is until i get my bargain lathe on ebay! (Just missed a nice Tyme Avon with lots of kit for £85 the other day ). Please feel free to spam me with offers of decent kit around the ton mark though!

 

[Richard Findley]

Most pros tend to leave the recess or screwholes. It is regarded as a little amateurish and a waste of time filling screw holes, cleaning bases

Most pros remove ALL chucking marks!! Personally I do it like this:

This is cheap, quick and easy!!! It is a disc of MDF mounted on a faceplate with a disc of Router mat between it and the bowl.

As for your question Oakbear regarding length of screws it depends on what wood you use and how good your tool technique is because a good catch will rip a potential bowl from most mountings!!! As your technique improves theoretically the screw length can shorten. Once they are short enough you can remove all signs of screw holes using the technique shown above.

Hope this helps,

Richard

 

[Vulthoom]

Richard,

Is that held just with the pressure of the centre?

 

[Bob Chapman]

If you have a look at my website, on the page 'For Woodturners', there is an article (called 'Bowls on a Budget) explaining how to make a bowl, and finish the bottom, using nothing more complicated than a faceplate, a tailstock centre and bit of scrap timber. I hope this may be of some help.

Bob

 

[PAC]

Great website, Bob. Thanks for the pdfs. =D>

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Vulthoom,

Yep, the router mat protects to rim and stops it spinning then the revolving centre just comes up to support it. It's so easy I don't understand why more people don't do it!!

Bob,

There's some good stuff on there that I'm sure many people will find useful. I've never worked out how to publish PDFs onto my website yet, is there a special program to do it?

Cheers,

Richard