Bowl gouge which profile?

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gasmansteve

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Hi all
I`m just about to start turning my first segmented bowl and planned to use my 1/2" bowl gouge with the standard 55degree grind on it but I`ve been reading various articles about folk using their bowl gouge with a fingernail profile grind. I`m still a novice at turning and assumed that a spindle gouge is not recommended for faceplate turning unless the user is very experienced which begs the question what can a bowl gouge with a spindle gouge like grind on it (ie a fingernail profile) achieve that a standard 55 degree grind cannot??. I have been a few weeks planning. cutting the mitres, gluing up the rings etc and don`t want to b@*** it up at the eleventh hour :oops: .
The bowl is made of 10 rings with max diameter about 10", anyone advise which is the best bowl gouge profile to use please for inside and outside the bowl and if poss `why`?
Cheers
Steve
 
Hi Steve - the idea with grinding angles is that you cannot maintain bevel contact on a curve that is tighter than the grind on the gouge.The fingernail grind gives easier access into smaller spaces and narrower coves.
Never done any segmented turning,so can't help you with what suits best - I have three bowl gouges,and use the 3/8" standard grind most.

Andrew
 
I suspect if you got answers from everyone on here you would get a different answer from each. I personally haven't got a clue what angle mine are ground to. I have different sizes and each one has a different grind. Some work well on shallow bowls, others on deep sharp cornered bowls etc. I use a fairly normal ground heavy duty 1/2" gouge to shape the outside and usually a home made rounded scraper to finish off the inside. I suspect the the correct answer is to use the one that you find easiest and most comfortable. I know one professional turner who uses a hollowing tool for most things not bowl gouges....take your pick

Not much help I know but hopefully someone more experienced will be along soon with better advice

Pete
 
Hi Steve,

Sounds like you've spent a good bit of time so far on the project, perhaps you should make a standard bowl to the shape of your planned segmental job, just to make sure you are confident with the cuts etc before going for it on the "masterpiece"!?

Personally I use a 3/8" bowl gouge with a ground back wing, with a bevel angle around 60-65 degrees. The actual angle doesn't matter but the swept back wings allow a wider variety of cuts to be used and take some of the catch risk away by taking the sharp points of the wings away from the cutting edge.

As Bodrighy says, grinds are a very personal thing and the only way forward is experimentation I'm affraid :?

Good luck,

Richard
 
Mornin' Steve.

Never having done any segmented turning I can't say anything for sure, but I would imagine that you would benefit by keeping the edge as sharp as possible on this work so it won't put too muck stress on the joints. I can't imagine the blank taking a sharp shock of a dig in very well. Also don't get too hung up on grind angles, you grind to suite yourself and the job. The deeper you go the more obtuse the angle.

You can use a spindle gouge on face plate work, but only on the outside of a bowl shape, and well supported by the rest. Don't let a spindle gouge over hang too much they don't like it.

Also see my post on 'sharpening tools'

Good luck, would like to see a photo when the bowl is finished.
 
Hi chaps
Thanks for the helpful advice. It seems that yet again with woodturning there is always more than one way to do something. I agree with the `What works best for you` idea of doing stuff up to a point. What if the method you use works ok but another one would be better/easier? suppose I should just try different methods and see. I`d love to show a photo of it Tam if and when it gets finished so be gentle if you see it :p :p .
Cheers again
Steve
 
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