Bow saws

[lurker]

This is only vaguely a woodworking question.

I have to lop some tree branches.
I usually use a chain saw but thats too dangerous in this instance.
I also have a lop saw but thats a bit too small.

So............ I thought I might use one of the many (metal type) bow saws I have lying around, unused.

The reason I don't use these is that invariably & quickly I jam the blade in the kerf, particularly if the wood is live (& thus wet).

I've never sharpened one, but its just dawned on me these (the ones I have) don't really have any "set". Is that right? Should they have some set or not?

Any other advice on using the things?

 

[paulm]

They don't have any set as far as I know.

They don't generally need resharpening either, or maybe I don't use mine enough !

What I do is give the blade a spray of pfte, or wd40 or wipe it with a candle first.

Do a release cut first on the underside of the branch bieng cut, just to avoid the bark tearing off later, and then cut from above as normal. The weight of the branch should open up the kerf a bit as the cut progresses but if not then a bit of pressure on it helps.

Having said all that it is a bit of exercise and the thicker the branch the harder the work !

Cheers, Paul

 

[NickWelford]

I find the binding usually happens if the branch is twisting as it drops - usually because there is greater growth on one side. Try judging which way it will go and cut opposite - but sometimes it's just impossible to judge. Agree that an undercut is absolutely needed.

 

[lurker]

No this is not my problem
From my considerable chain saw experience ( I have a full house of certificates for these :lol: ) I'm aware of how cuts can close up and how to avoid it.

With the bow, I get binding before I'm even a quarter of the way through the cut.

Maybe I need to review my technique which basically consists of brute force.

 

[Jake]

The standard blades aren't that good in green wood (even though they claim to be). You can get blades like this raker blade which are much better for that.

 

[Karl]

As Jake says, you need a different type of blade. I got one in order to remove a substantial Sycamore from our back garden. I removed the majority with a bow saw, and what was left (the main trunk) was removed by a friend who knows how to wield a chainsaw.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Woodmagnet]

I use a pull saw for lopping branches, it makes
the job much easier. :wink:

 

[big soft moose]

yep i agree a green wood blade is a whole different class for pruning etc.

re sharpening ive heard that you can do it with a sanding pad in the same way that you do a bandsaw but bowsaw blades are so cheap ive never bothered.

I'm also curious as to what the situation is that makes chainsaw use a non starter - would a top handle, or one of those little 4" bar prunning c/saws do the trick ?

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I have a picture of Lurker dressed in black like a substantial ninja, pruning unruly hedges in to the shape of hand tools under the cover of darkness :wink:


Pete

 

[Pekka Huhta]

Those bow saws are still widely in use over here. You definitely need a different set for wet wood. In the old days before chain saws the timberjacks knew exactly how to set their saws for different occasions: widest kerf was needed on wet weather during autumn and soft woods (spruce and pine), denser birch required a smaller kerf and when the wood was frozen and hard during wintertime it needed a very narrow kerf. If the wood was very resinous or pitchy it also required a wider kerf. Cutting already dried timber (like firewood) was done with a pretty narrow kerf. So, any blade you buy from shop is likely to be a compromise.

Even if the teeth are too hard for re-filing, they usually can be set a bit wider for fresh wood. You should try that. The currently sold bow saw blades are pretty useless these days, I don't know what they are made for. Definitely not for wet wood anyway.

When I was a kid, one of my dearest hobbies was to fall a tree or two at our summer cottage. We did not have that much land over the cottage, so it was only a matter of a tree or two every summer. It was always done with a bow saw and axe, for some reason I was a bit behind my time back then already

Pekka

 

[Harbo]

Just had a mail from FineTools (Dicks) featuring a very long bladed tree saw - 500mm blade.


http://www.dick.biz/dick/product/712048/detail.jsf?lang=en

Rod

 

[Steve Maskery]

I have a picture of Lurker dressed in black like a substantial ninja, pruning unruly hedges in to the shape of hand tools under the cover of darkness :wink:

Pete, PLEASE post it!
S

 

[Racers]

Hi, Steve


Sorry I use it to keep intruders from my workshop, I dare not remove it.



Pete

 

[Chris Knight]

I use a pull saw for lopping branches, it makes
the job much easier. :wink:

I agree - I find these easy to use and they can cut thick branches with less effort than many other types.

 

[Benchwayze]

I just looked at my 'pruning-saw'.

The fitting for the blade doesn't allow reversing of the blade, but as there's no rake on the teeth, it wouldn't make any odds. Seems mine can cut on both strokes.

It has four teeth per inch. Each group of four is separated by a shorter 'double-tooth' spanning 3/4, including gullets. Doesn't seem to have as much set as I'd imagine, but I never noticed any difficulty using it and I've tackled stuff up to five or six inches in diameter. Just took longer and I got more exercise!

 

[lurker]

Hi,

............a substantial...............

Pete

AND what exactly are you insinuating :evil:

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Pete,
What is a substantial Ninja?
Are they usually ghostlike?
From what I remember of my kids' TV days, they are pretty substantial in presence!

 

[Racers]

Hi, Lurker

That you cut a dash :wink:


Pete

 

[lurker]

Thats all right then!

I thought you were suggesting, I'm a fat Bastard

 

[Racers]

Hi, lurker

Svelte, lithe, slight, willowy, sylphlike.


Now whens my eye test?

:wink:

Pete