BOLTS & COVERS

[Alexam]

I am renewing my workbench and installing a 9" vice under the worktop. This will require 4 hefty bolts to drop through the worktop and be tightened below, but I would like to hide the bolts, that will be at surface level, or just below.

Are there bolt tops, or what is the best way to hide the hex bolts please.

Alex

 

[MARK.B.]

You could set them in to the top and plug the holes with wooden plugs that would prevent any damage to your chisels/planes etc.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Counterbore and plug the holes. Bore the large hole first, you've still got the centre for the smaller one.

 

[Lons]

I just glued in wood plugs to match the bench top and planed / sanded flush.

I assume the vice will be permanent so not necessary to remove the bolts

Bob

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

I use couch bolts from underneath so you don't see anything on top of the bench.

 

[KevM]

I use coach screws from underneath.

 

[twothumbs]

I use scewed rod cut to length to suit. Plug as above. Oh. you can pin over the screwed rod on one end to make it a bolt. Best wishes.

 

[AndyT]

Like Kev said - just use coach screws from below.

 

[condeesteso]

Coach bolts. If you can't use them, top's too thin

 

[Alexam]

Thanks for all the replies. As the top comprises 3/4 chipboard, which I am adding 3/4 hardwood ply, I felt that full bolts would be best in view of the very heavy weight.

It will be permanent, so I think filling in with a plug or glue and sawdust would be best.

Much appreciated.

Alex

 

[RossJarvis]

Thanks for all the replies. As the top comprises 3/4 chipboard, which I am adding 3/4 hardwood ply, I felt that full bolts would be best in view of the very heavy weight.

It will be permanent, so I think filling in with a plug or glue and sawdust would be best.

Much appreciated.

Alex

Possibly bashing an oversize softwood plug in, without glue could be an option, so if you do need to get in, just screw a screw in and lever the plug out. If firm enough it should stand up to reasonably hard use.

 

[Lons]

Here's mine with the plugs glued in.
It's a battered and ancient ex school bench so other holes had to be plugged as well. Beech top and the little vice I removed was then fitted as an end vice.

Bob

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Chipboard and ply are both lousy for screwing into - coach bolts (their heads usually being slightly shallower than hex bolts) through the top would be better, but an inch and a half top doesn't leave much room to hide them. For the cost of chipboard, use two or three layers. You can use all manner of rubbish to build up the middle layers - it makes no difference to strength, and won't be seen.

 

[Alexam]

Thanks again.

It does need to be the carriage bolts, rather than screws, in view of the top thickness/thinness and the weight of the vice. I also need to build up the underside to fit the depth, so I will be screwing about 2"-3" to the underside of the surface before the vice gains the right depth to sit short of the work surface. I plan to screw under some solid plank or planks first, that have good screws, countersunk, from the top for strength. The top ply will actually be lipped on the back edge of the vice and an inner jaw liner fitted to the vice to bring it flush or slightly above the top surface.

I pulled up some good instructions that are printed by Highland Woodworking, which have been helpful.

Alex