bloody router!!!

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tombo

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working on a small project, a little dovetailed box made from bubinga
I was pleased with the way its going, as i'm getting better at cutting dovetails, and thicknessing with a hand plane so there are a few hours in the piece so far.

then to cut the groove in the sides for the box bottom on the router table.
even after making a perfect test cut in some scrap the router bit came loose, not a lot but enough to raise up about 5 or 6 mil and straight through my piece

that was Sunday I'm calmer now...

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That's quite frightening to think that it came loose!! :?

You weren't trying to cut too deep, were you? What router are you using?

Getting a decent grain-match could be tricky but inlaying is probably the best thing to do.
 
its a 5mm cutter and i was taking 5mm depth. is that too much?
Ive got a trend t9 in the router table, plenty of power but not great ergonomically upside down
In the end i just made the whole part again i hope it fits. :?
I did think of inlay but it was just in the wrong place though i may try that on the next box on purpose
 
Yes, Yes, I know ALL about the Bloody Router

Count your digits, it'll make you feel better ;)
 
tombo wrote:
its a 5mm cutter and i was taking 5mm depth. is that too much?
Yup, far too much with one pass...three cuts needed on the table to get that depth (a little and often is the rule :) ) - Rob
 
tombo":1duzz9xo said:
its a 5mm cutter and i was taking 5mm depth. is that too much?

The rule of thumb I have been given is to cut a depth of less than half of the width of the cutter.

So for a 5mm cutter you should be cutting less than 2.5mm in each pass.
 
Hi,
I usually push down to hard and force the router into making a deeper cut if I have forgot to set the plunge stop.
Have you got a contrasting wood to make a new set of long sides out of? or make them shorter?

Pete
 
thanks for the input but i would like to understand the reasoning as to why you think that i was taking too big a bite by doing it in one pass.

As I figure the bit would probably have come loose no matter what and the problem was mainly the collet not gripping.

I have since now remade the part and cut all the grooves, just this time i wanged the collet a lot tighter. The cuts were easy enough and the result is good without any burning. But if i am doing it wrong i want to know.

Tom
 
Hefty cuts will cause the cutter to run 'planetary', along with a loose collet the cutter will then 'screw' its way out. The 'planetary' running would also cause vibration.

Roy.
 
tombo wrote:
thanks for the input but i would like to understand the reasoning as to why you think that i was taking too big a bite by doing it in one pass

Nothing at all to stop you making a big cut with a router, it's just easier on the operator and tool to take a series of smaller cuts...less effort required and kinder to both, the router noise :shock: will also tell you if you're taking off too much. Similar analogy when using a plane, do you take off a really thick, heavy shaving or back off the cutter and take a series of smaller, thinner cuts? A bigger cut is possible with a very sharp or new cutter but if it's been in use for a while, then it's much better practice and much safer to take several smaller cuts - Rob
 
Also, if you take too deep a cut with a narrow cutter, there is a strong likelihood of it snapping :shock:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Paul Chapman":dwvrx85t said:
Also, if you take too deep a cut with a narrow cutter, there is a strong likelihood of it snapping :shock:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
Forgot that...thanks Paul, quite correct - Rob
 
I would have thought that 5mm would be fine. The T9 has plenty of power and I make that kind of cut all the time with mine. I have found that when inverted the T9's collet can get clogged with dust. This first shows when loosening in that it's stiffer to turn than it was when new. I have had a slip like this once and I believe that this was the problem. Since then I make more of a point of dismantling and cleaning the collet more thoughly and more often.
 
It isn't the power of the router that is the issue, it's the strength and rigidity of the cutter.

Roy.
 
Sorry, I have to disagree with the rule of thumb thing about depth should be no more than whatever, for crying out loud use your common sense!!! Rules only apply to things that are consistently the same. When was the last time you found two pieces of wood exactly the same? You have just answered that question for yourself and is one of the reasons we love the material so much, yes, never!!! And if you stuck to the RULE would you treat pine the same way as Ebony....... I think not!!

Make a trial cut in the material you intend to use and if it makes noises you don't like the sound of then reduce the depth, hey... simple.... makes some sort of sense does it not!!!

The other major factor here is the quality of cutter you are using, if it is a £1.99 cutter from s@#t cutters R us.com then expect trouble as they do not actually cut, they tend to bludgeon your work and will ride up as they are made to poor tolerance's ie: under size

BUT for all those who MUST follow strict rules, who know more than me, but have NO common sense...........CARRY ON!!!!!!

Sorry to be rude, crude and automobiles but sometimes we need to STOP and THINK, its what makes us us creative!!!!

Pete
 
you OK pete ? ! :D

I think thats why they call it rule of thumb ... every ones thumb is there own - its just an average guideline ! a starting point . once one has 'experience' they can use common sense. but until then - a 'rule of thumb' can be useful :)

my 'rule of thumb' would be - err on the side of caution. if in doubt cut less. then with experience - cut a bit more , until you can tell when it enough.
 
Pete,

Have you been sniffing the wood dust again :lol: :lol:

AND what may I ask is wrong with S@*T cutters R us.com, I've always found their products exactly as described.
 

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