Black and White property paint choice

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Valhalla

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Hi,
I'm in the process of purchasing a traditional 16thC B & W property in Herefordshire. It will need some money (probably lots of it as well) thrown at it. One of the recommendations of the survey was the painting of the external timbers. Does anyone know what the best paint for the job is? It needs to be matt.

cheers
 
I'd check with the listing department of your local council. I'd also ask if it has to be B&W as this was a fad of the Victorians that seems to live on.

Colin
 
Some kind of traditional breathable paint would be in keeping and maintain moisture balance in walls and timbers. A modern petrochemical paint may cause problems. For interior I would second clay paints such as eathborn or nutbrown. Council can probably advise on exterior paint.
 
linseed oil paint, didn't they limewash with hot lime in the 16th century? I'm not sure if paint was even around back then.
 
I often work on historic properties and have had a lot of success with Solignums Architectural range. In fact, I had to replace a peice of cladding on a thatched cottage recently which had shrunk and warped badly. The house looked great coming up the drive and I was surprised to find it was still the original Solignums paint that I put on it when I reclad the whole building in 2014: especially as this building gets a lot of sun and weather and is completely painted in black.

http://www.solignum.co.uk/
 
linseed oil paint, didn't they limewash with hot lime in the 16th century? I'm not sure if paint was even around back then.

Whatever you do, do NOT use that awful linseed oil stuff.

Let the timber breathe. Lime paint good...anything synthetic bases...very bad. Whereabouts in Herefordshire...know the county well. Renovated a B&W there a few years back.
 
I would research a bit more but I think linseed oil paint is a possibility, although it might be a waste of time if someone has already used a modern "plastic" film type paint. I get mine here There is also information on painting half-timbered houses, but I'm not sure if it is relevant to the UK.
Although it's a German website I think the raw materials are Swedish and Danish.
It weathers nicely, is very easy to put on and looks good even after one coat with no primer or undercoat on bare wood. I have used it on all of my exterior sweet chestnut doors. I even purchased the version with no driers added, just linseed oil and pigment.
When I re-plastered my 18C stone house in Ireland I used fat lime limewash but it took a lot of coats to get a solid finish, and an awful lot of brushing. On new lime work now I use Keim silicate paints, totally breathable.
 
Linseed oil is dreadful stuff. No matter how thinly you put it on, it takes forever to dry out despite what Jacob would have you believe! Plus it's a feeding ground for mould and mildew unless you stuff it full of zinc oxide.
 
Linseed oil paint is wondwrful stuff. A good quality paint applied correctly is both easy to use and long lasting. It does not trap moisture.
 
Im interested. Without wanting to hijack the thread, can you guys list the pros and cons to the linseed debate? I can of course google it, but thats not a substitute for experience..... i have no real knowledge or opinion of linseed, but an interest in learning.

What would have been used originally to paint these properties when first built?? Lime and coal as pigment ?
 
Hi All,
Thanks to everyone for all the input............as usual there's more than one way to spank the monkey. I'll see what the conservation crowd have to say and the listed building people and whomever else......
I do have another question, but on a different topic - will start a new thread
 
SLOP (Slimy Linseed Oil Paint) is best left in the tin. I recall seeing this term mentioned a year or so back on the forum and thought...good description.

You make a primer with SLOP, raw linseed oil and balsam turpentine. Apply thinly and it does get absorbed into the wood quite quickly. The next coat is where the fun starts. No matter how thinly you apply SLOP, it will take forever to dry. The proponents will say 'You put it on too thickly'. Nope. Applied thin as thin can be. Still takes a couple of days to dry. Sort of.

Of course, you never want to drop any on a non-porous surface because that is when your pain really starts if you don't realise it is there as it will never dry...well, after a few months maybe. It then gets transferred accidentally to another non-porous surface perhaps and lurks there to catch the unwary and ready for the next 'transfer'.

After that first ultra-thin coat has been applied, it is now time to apply a second coat. This one will take even longer to dry.

And don't forget the fun doesn't just end there. Ignore the 'All you need do in the future is simply apply another coat'. WRONG ! First go and buy some industrial mould and mildew strength remover because, boy, does that stuff like SLOP. It's a feeding frenzy for all those little spores. Weep while your carefully and painstakingly painted white outdoor building takes on that slimy grey hue as the mould gets established.

What's that, I hear you say ? 'You should have mixed Zinc Oxide in to the SLOP'. OK...good to hear after the event. Now where do they say that on the tin? No room as it's too busy extolling the 'green' advantages of SLOP.

Jacob will be along soon to tell me that I put it on too thick, that it's wonderful, all my fault, blah, blah, blah.
 
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Put it away, Phil. I've said my bit. Anyone else is entitled to their views re SLOP but I'll not respond.
 
Nope. Do not even use Allbäck. I prefer Ottosson, Wibo or Selder. Never had any problems. Linseed oil paints are a proven technology. Sorry to hear that it hasn't worked for you. Your story sounds very strange. I have never heard of anything like it. I have painted all kinds of things with it and never had any problems.
 
Im interested. Without wanting to hijack the thread, can you guys list the pros and cons to the linseed debate? I can of course google it, but thats not a substitute for experience..... i have no real knowledge or opinion of linseed, but an interest in learning.

What would have been used originally to paint these properties when first built?? Lime and coal as pigment ?

They were originally limewashed, and polychromed with pigment added to limewash in accordance with the local colour scheme. B&W is a Victorian thing, so if you want to be correct, then research is required, but you may upset the locals if you change the colour.

Historically, the black on timber, which is actually very dark brown and used in Denmark and Scandinavia, is wood tar or Stockholm tar as we like to call it. It's a distillate of resin from Scots pine produced by charcoaling lumps of resinous pine. But nowadays all sorts of rubbish is painted on, including bitumen.
 
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