Black and Decker drill stand

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timber

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Today I found a use for an old B&D drill stand that I refurbished along side an old B&D drill, last week
The first thought during the refurbish was why am I wasting my time???? I could go and by a cheap drill press.
Anyway this morning I needed to drill some dowel holes in a seat frame for a chair seat ( detachable ).
The drill stand has a vertical round bar that enables it to rotate in any direction to the base thus with the base clamped to my bench so that the drill can be lined up with the pieces of the seat frame held in the bench vice ,it is very easy to drill the dowel holes.
It can then be put away again out of sight.( Been more or less that way for the last 50 years)
Regards
Richard
 
My Bosch also has the a round post, so when I drilled the dog holes in the bench top I spaced the ones close to the vice so that I could bolt it down and use it as you do. I also made a small bench with a fixed fence to fit my (wide) Workmate so I can mount a 43mm collared router in it and use it overhead, using the arc it swings through for adjustment. Great for doing small, short pieces that can't be held.
 
phil.p":33w48lm2 said:
...... so I can mount a 43mm collared router in it and use it overhead, using the arc it swings through for adjustment. Great for doing small, short pieces that can't be held.

+ 1

Neil
 
phil.p":26dle587 said:
I also made a small bench with a fixed fence to fit my (wide) Workmate so I can mount a 43mm collared router in it and use it overhead, using the arc it swings through for adjustment.

Would you mind going to the trouble of posting a picture so I can better understand how it's done? Thanks.

G.
 
I'm not in a position to take photos at the moment - my equipment is still in storage. You could make the "table" as large as you wished, but mine is the width of the workmate and the depth is slightly more than the base of the stand. It was specifically designed to drop into and sit flush with my workmate, (which is a large topped one). It could be designed to clamp in a vice (I think mine does, but I've been out of action for 3yrs and I don't remember off hand), but could be any size as long as you have a way of fixing it down. The base of the stand is flush with the table, and a small fence is screwed across the back of the table towards the post - there's no benefit in putting it too far back as the bits of wood you tend to use it for are small and if the fence is too far back when you swing the router towards the fence you also swing it towards the end of the fence - which isn't good when you are machining small pieces. You could design an adjustable fence but I can't see much point. Most off the time you need push sticks because the work is small and you are dangerously close to the cutter. You can invent all sorts of ways of guiding your work piece - it's brilliant for doing small inlays and crossbandings (assuming you stand is firm enough). I'm sure someone will come along with a photo. :)
 
FWIW I have a Bosch version with the solid hex pillar, and an all together more substantial carriage and base, which is semi-permanently fitted with a B&D 1/4" router. Works for the odd occasion I absolutely have to turn on the electricity. I still miss the old B&D drill stand which had the ability to perform as you describe, and rotate around the pillar.

Fitted with a ply table and movable fence, it performed way outside any B&D design parameters. I made a number of children's size Windsor type chairs and this was invaluable when drilling the seat base on an inclined table, so I would say refurbish and hang on to it. I seem to remember that eventually the alloy casting holding the drill cracked, but by that time it owed me nothing.

Regards
Mike
 
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