Bevel edge/ chamfer edge

[Niall Church]

Anyone got a way,a simple one,to cut a 25° bevel or chamfer edge along the length on a 4x1" piece of wood? It's for either side of a ridge bord for a green house!!

 

[Tris]

25° bevel either side? Then you are effectively cutting 2@2x1. Doable on a table saw with the board running vertically and the blade set at 65° I think

Assuming it's shaped like a fence capping rail

 

[Jacob]

Mark with gauge, plane to lines with plane.

 

[Niall Church]

25° bevel either side? Then you are effectively cutting 2@2x1. Doable on a table saw with the board running vertically and the blade set at 65° I think

Assuming it's shaped like a fence capping rail

Ok,I don't have a table saw,I have a eletric planer,a jigsaw,hand saw,and bandsaw!planks of wood are 8ft length,2 off,I want to bevel one side of each length,to go on eirher side of ridge plate,for greenhouse!! Oh,have a 1/4" router as well!

 

[Jacob]

Ok,I don't have a table saw,I have a eletric planer,a jigsaw,hand saw,and bandsaw!planks of wood are 8ft length,2 off,I want to bevel one side of each length,to go on eirher side of ridge plate,for greenhouse!!

Buy a gauge and a jack plane?
Or gauge and use your electric planer but not as easy to work to the lines.

 

[Niall Church]

Here's drawing of what I want to do!

 

[Jacob]

Here are pictures of what you need:

https://www.toolstation.com/draper-marking-gauge/p46558

You could do it with a bandsaw but but controlling a long piece on a small saw is difficult.

 

[niall Y]

Mark it with a sliding bevel and gauge. Remove the majority of the stock with your electric planer and finish with a hand plane,
That is quite an expanse of timber to have exposed on the outside of a greenhouse roof. A bit of a hostage to fortune if it's not capped with a flashing.

 

[Niall Church]

Here are pictures of what you need:

https://www.toolstation.com/draper-marking-gauge/p46558

View attachment 188941


You could do it with a bandsaw but but controlling a long piece on a small saw is difficult.

Yeah, I thought bandsaw would be handy if it wasn't so long,then I thought of cutting the boardscto smaller pieces,but, dizn't fancy doing that,I do have a stanly no 6 plane! Did try a test piececwith router and chamfer bit! Nice chamfer/ bevel,but would need another bit tomake 25°!

 

[Jacob]

....I do have a stanly no 6 plane! ...

Just the job, why didn't you say so!
Then you just need to hold the boards edge side up somehow or other G clamps etc, if you don't have a vice/bench.
Worth getting to grips with the plane as it would be very quick and easy, plus endlessly useful for other jobs. A very basic essential hand tool.

 

[Niall Church]

Mark it with a sliding bevel and gauge. Remove the majority of the stock with your electric planer and finish with a hand plane,
That is quite an expanse of timber to have exposed on the outside of a greenhouse roof. A bit of a hostage to fortune if it's not capped with a flashing.

It's treated wood and will be painted,but mightlook at some flashing for it!

 

[Niall Church]

Just the job, why didn't you say so!
Then you just need to hold the boards edge side up somehow or other G clamps etc, if you don't have a vice/bench.
Worth getting to grips with the plane as it would be very quick and easy, plus endlessly useful for other jobs. A very basic essential hand tool.

Could it not be placed flat and then plane?

 

[Yojevol]

I suggest you clamp (or screw) the two boards together lengthwise but with the edges offset such that angle between adjacent corners is 25deg. Then use your planer to remove those corners until you have the required bevels on.both boards.
Brian

Edit- the offset for 1" is just under 12mm