Best wood for a painted garden gate.

[VeryNewToWood]

Hi. I'm new to woodworking and new to this site. I've looked on previous posts but can't find an answer. My next project is a new garden gate. Or at least the next project I've been instructed to do! It is going to be painted in external gloss paint, matching the front door. It's going to look like this. Different dimensions but that't the idea. I'm just wondering if there is an ideal wood for this type of project. Also should I use the same wood for the entire project? Thank you in advance.

 

[recipio]

Iroko is probably the best overall value for money. Horrible stuff to work though.

 

[eribaMotters]

If you are allowed to leave it natural then it has to be Iroko. I made a garden table, set of benches and some small tables over 25 years ago. They have had no surface finish applied and they have been left outside every winter. The table and benches are under a cover for winter and look excellent. The small tables are left to the elements and are looking nicely ages with no decay.
If you have to paint then I would would source a mahogany type, paint with aluminium primer and then use the likes of Dulux Weathershield Aquatec. Do not use a gloss. This was the system I used on all exterior woodwork at my last house, including some 80+ year old softwood window frames I had taken back to bare wood. Every two or three years I washed everything down, never had to do any repair work and applied one fresh coat.
It is a very easy and quick maintenance schedule. It used to take me a weekend to paint all of the woodwork on a 4 bed 3 reception house.

Colin

 

[Jameshow]

I would do it in larch or slow growth pine which is relatively cheap but durable.

You will make all sorts of mistakes but will learn a lot. down the line you can rebuild in teak.....

However if you don't make mistakes ignore the above!!

 

[VeryNewToWood]

Iroko is probably the best overall value for money. Horrible stuff to work though.

Horrible to work with worries me......

 

[VeryNewToWood]

I would do it in larch or slow growth pine which is relatively cheap but durable.

You will make all sorts of mistakes but will learn a lot. down the line you can rebuild in teak.....

However if you don't make mistakes ignore the above!!

I'm certainly learning..... Measure twice cut four times. Thank fully we have a woodburner!

 

[VeryNewToWood]

If you are allowed to leave it natural then it has to be Iroko. I made a garden table, set of benches and some small tables over 25 years ago. They have had no surface finish applied and they have been left outside every winter. The table and benches are under a cover for winter and look excellent. The small tables are left to the elements and are looking nicely ages with no decay.
If you have to paint then I would would source a mahogany type, paint with aluminium primer and then use the likes of Dulux Weathershield Aquatec. Do not use a gloss. This was the system I used on all exterior woodwork at my last house, including some 80+ year old softwood window frames I had taken back to bare wood. Every two or three years I washed everything down, never had to do any repair work and applied one fresh coat.
It is a very easy and quick maintenance schedule. It used to take me a weekend to paint all of the woodwork on a 4 bed 3 reception house.

Colin

Cheers Colin. Has to be painted. First rule of Wood Club - always do what the wife says and asks for. That way I can keep playing. Thanks for the painting tips.

 

[thetyreman]

I would use redwood pine and linseed oil paint.

 

[recipio]

Horrible to work with worries me......

Ha Ha. The dust is like pepper in the air. As long as you have extraction on any machinery it will be fine. It is prone to movement however and best given a few days to rest after milling.

 

[VeryNewToWood]

Ha Ha. The dust is like pepper in the air. As long as you have extraction on any machinery it will be fine. It is prone to movement however and best given a few days to rest after milling.

Ah that's ok then. The place I go and play is pretty well set up for extraction.

 

[Doug71]

Not a comment on what wood to use but the design. On the picture you posted it looks like the boarding might sit in a groove in the bottom rail which isn't ideal. It's better if the boarding runs over one face of the bottom rail right to the bottom of the gate so water runs off.

Sorry if this is teaching granny to suck eggs.

 

[VeryNewToWood]

Not a comment on what wood to use but the design. On the picture you posted it looks like the boarding might sit in a groove in the bottom rail which isn't ideal. It's better if the boarding runs over one face of the bottom rail right to the bottom of the gate so water runs off.

Sorry if this is teaching granny to suck eggs.

Not a comment on what wood to use but the design. On the picture you posted it looks like the boarding might sit in a groove in the bottom rail which isn't ideal. It's better if the boarding runs over one face of the bottom rail right to the bottom of the gate so water runs off.

Sorry if this is teaching granny to suck eggs.

Yeah I'd thought that too. Where we live it gets pretty wild. The gate is the first thing that the wind rain and snow hits have blown across a mile wide valley.....

 

[--Tom--]

If painting softwood, soak in clear wood preserver, then paint of choice. As you build it think about how to stop gravity letting water get into the joints. Also plan for seasonal movement.

 

[Alasdair]

I second larch. Have had rails in my garden for 20 years and they are as good as new. They were painted with some garden paint but it came off the larch very quickly where as it is still ok on softwood.