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You do know you've gone from treated timber to untreated, don't you? If you were getting 4 or 5 years from your previous wood, expect less now. It's not a result of a different kilning process, either. It's likely a different species of wood. Oh and "C24" is only a strength grading thing, and is not a description of the wood. You don't need a strength grading for a piece of furniture.

Knotting shows through staining and varnishing, so it really isn't an option. Besides, it won't do anything for the sap.

Most knots are dry, and won't exude any sap because they don't have any. Those which aren't should just not make it onto the final product. They go in the waste bin. If you are determined not to put it in the bin (you really should), and if a sappy knot doesn't penetrate to the other side (ie sap is only visible on one side), you could rout out the knot past the depth of the sap, and then fill with a two-part filler. Sand it flat when dry. Obviously this would then need to go on the underside where it isn't visible.

You basic problem here is that you are using unsuitable timber.

<blockquote data-quote="MikeG." data-source="post: 1376876" data-attributes="member: 5008">You do know you&#039;ve gone from treated timber to untreated, don&#039;t you? If you were getting 4 or 5 years from your previous wood, expect less now. It&#039;s not a result of a different kilning process, either. It&#039;s likely a different species of wood. Oh and &quot;C24&quot; is only a strength grading thing, and is not a description of the wood. You don&#039;t need a strength grading for a piece of furniture.Knotting shows through staining and varnishing, so it really isn&#039;t an option. Besides, it won&#039;t do anything for the sap.Most knots are dry, and won&#039;t exude any sap because they don&#039;t have any. Those which aren&#039;t should just not make it onto the final product. They go in the waste bin. If you are determined not to put it in the bin (you really should), and if a sappy knot doesn&#039;t penetrate to the other side (ie sap is only visible on one side), you could rout out the knot past the depth of the sap, and then fill with a two-part filler. Sand it flat when dry. Obviously this would then need to go on the underside where it isn&#039;t visible.You basic problem here is that you are using unsuitable timber.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="MikeG., post: 1376876, member: 5008"] You do know you've gone from treated timber to untreated, don't you? If you were getting 4 or 5 years from your previous wood, expect less now. It's not a result of a different kilning process, either. It's likely a different species of wood. Oh and "C24" is only a strength grading thing, and is not a description of the wood. You don't need a strength grading for a piece of furniture. Knotting shows through staining and varnishing, so it really isn't an option. Besides, it won't do anything for the sap. Most knots are dry, and won't exude any sap because they don't have any. Those which aren't should just not make it onto the final product. They go in the waste bin. If you are determined not to put it in the bin (you really should), and if a sappy knot doesn't penetrate to the other side (ie sap is only visible on one side), you could rout out the knot past the depth of the sap, and then fill with a two-part filler. Sand it flat when dry. Obviously this would then need to go on the underside where it isn't visible. You basic problem here is that you are using unsuitable timber. [/QUOTE]

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