Best way to ease edges?

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I use a 1/4" palm router and Axminster 1/16" Ovolo cutter with a flush bearing. Axcaliber Ovolo/Roundover Cutters
I find it gives just enough roundover to maintain a square edge look and gives a consistent finish when going round corners with a larger radius.
IMG_5351.JPG
 
All good, but one slip and the piece is ruined when a router is involved.
Well, I’d argue that’s true for all tools but y’know... ;)

Sounds like you want crisp, repeatable chamfers without using a power tool. In that case, you probably need a plane with a chamfer groove on it like @Blackswanwood and @workshopted have mentioned. You could make a fairly useful one from an old and unloved wooden plane from eBay...
 
I’ve always just done a light hand sand to ease the edges and make a small chamfer when I make tables and such, but I’m not happy with the amount of checking and correcting I have to do to make sure the new edge line is even and not wavy. I’m considering trying to plane
This is a really interesting question as it touches on what result you really want and how much expense/risk are you prepared to accept.

Because the chamfered edge is towards the end of a long process of making, it needs to be done well or you write off a lot of valuable time/wood. So its a high risk business. Although if it goes horribly wrong, you can plane back the surface, start again and have a table 1/8 inch narrower...

The other points to bear in mind, is just what kind of an edge do you really want? If you want a factory finish, then a machine tool such as a router with a bearing on the trimmer will do this reliably - after a bit of practice, the bearings mean its very hard to slip up if the tool is sharp.
Another option is to buy a dedicated chamfer plane, keep the edge sharp and just take of a small amount at a time all round etc. Its a kind of ideal hand finish.

The other strategy is to accept that hand made with a slight wobble is actually easy on the eye - within reason. This is a whats really interesting about your question as we don't always think about it that deeply.
When I was at school (a long time ago, in the last century..) I wanted a perfect finish, probably to prove to myself, I could do it. but now those projects look machine made and almost mass produced by dust making shops. Attractive antique furniture has a bit of variation in it. I've found that slips and slight deviations on edges that made me curse at the bench and spot when looking at the finished article, fade in the memory and no-one but me notices. I now rather like these blemishes, its the personality of the piece of furniture and I've stopped beating myself up. Its a bit like having rays in the natural wood or grain variation its part of a living thing.

I have an extreme example: we did-up an old barn a few years ago, and the builders put an rsj above the entrance and then screwed a beautiful oak board across to make it blend in with the houses in the street. I was troubled by observing that some houses in our street were genuinely old and looked it, even when in a good state of repair, whereas others had cheap looking wood replacements in the widow and door frames - whatever the wood, (Oak or cheap pine) the perfect finish jarred with the rest of the setting, it was almost like PVC glazing. As an experiment I cut a very wavy line along the oak boards with a jigsaw. Once mortared-in, it looked contemporary with the age of the barn and we were very pleased with the results. Others may have preferred a strait edge.

Its a matter of personal preference, what look you are after at the end of your project. I'm currently of the spokeshave/no4 plane school for most hand made things, but did/do use a router to trim my workbench to fit a metal edge as it was quick and reliable and where a perfect edge is needed or desired. Long answer to a simple but thought provoking question. You may decide that you rather like the wavier look, once its a deliberate act and not seen as an imperfection.
 
This is a really interesting question as it touches on what result you really want and how much expense/risk are you prepared to accept.

Because the chamfered edge is towards the end of a long process of making, it needs to be done well or you write off a lot of valuable time/wood. So its a high risk business. Although if it goes horribly wrong, you can plane back the surface, start again and have a table 1/8 inch narrower...

The other points to bear in mind, is just what kind of an edge do you really want? If you want a factory finish, then a machine tool such as a router with a bearing on the trimmer will do this reliably - after a bit of practice, the bearings mean its very hard to slip up if the tool is sharp.
Another option is to buy a dedicated chamfer plane, keep the edge sharp and just take of a small amount at a time all round etc. Its a kind of ideal hand finish.

The other strategy is to accept that hand made with a slight wobble is actually easy on the eye - within reason. This is a whats really interesting about your question as we don't always think about it that deeply.
When I was at school (a long time ago, in the last century..) I wanted a perfect finish, probably to prove to myself, I could do it. but now those projects look machine made and almost mass produced by dust making shops. Attractive antique furniture has a bit of variation in it. I've found that slips and slight deviations on edges that made me curse at the bench and spot when looking at the finished article, fade in the memory and no-one but me notices. I now rather like these blemishes, its the personality of the piece of furniture and I've stopped beating myself up. Its a bit like having rays in the natural wood or grain variation its part of a living thing.

I have an extreme example: we did-up an old barn a few years ago, and the builders put an rsj above the entrance and then screwed a beautiful oak board across to make it blend in with the houses in the street. I was troubled by observing that some houses in our street were genuinely old and looked it, even when in a good state of repair, whereas others had cheap looking wood replacements in the widow and door frames - whatever the wood, (Oak or cheap pine) the perfect finish jarred with the rest of the setting, it was almost like PVC glazing. As an experiment I cut a very wavy line along the oak boards with a jigsaw. Once mortared-in, it looked contemporary with the age of the barn and we were very pleased with the results. Others may have preferred a strait edge.

Its a matter of personal preference, what look you are after at the end of your project. I'm currently of the spokeshave/no4 plane school for most hand made things, but did/do use a router to trim my workbench to fit a metal edge as it was quick and reliable and where a perfect edge is needed or desired. Long answer to a simple but thought provoking question. You may decide that you rather like the wavier look, once its a deliberate act and not seen as an imperfection.
Thanks for such a well thought out answer to my question. I like the fact that you learned to appreciate imperfections as part of the piece.
 
Thanks for such a well thought out answer to my question. I like the fact that you learned to appreciate imperfections as part of the piece.
I get imperfections with a router. I don't like them and don't use them if I don't have to and hand tool imperfections are much classier!
Taking off the arris is very easy with a block. A chance to use a 102, which otherwise is generally useless.
Blocks are under rated; one handed planes have a huge advantage in that you don't need to clamp anything - you hold the workpiece with the other hand.
A quick shufti in Salman shows lots of options. The "cornering tool" looks good I've never used one. Simple and cheap (not the Veritas!). They probably get overlooked as some sort of bottle opener.
 
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If wanting to do this to components before assembly, I tend to use the planer withe the fence at 45 degrees. First pass takes of next to nothing. 2nd or 3rd normally does it. Then do all the same number of times. Quick and easy.
 
not with a small router trimmer and a sub base:

I bought one of these -was a bit disappointed when I got and discovered its been 3d printed rather than machined out of solid laminate, however it works like a dream -I use it to run around casement windows and never get a dig in.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Extended...4536a82c1913b3a29296|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524
Can you explain the benefit of this base please? Is it just to give more support on the work piece to prevent it tipping? And you use a bearing guided bit with it? Thanks
 
I get imperfections with a router. I don't like them and don't use them if I don't have to and hand tool imperfections are much classier!
Taking off the arris is very easy with a block. A chance to use a 102, which otherwise is generally useless.
Blocks are under rated; one handed planes have a huge advantage in that you don't need to clamp anything - you hold the workpiece with the other hand.
A quick shufti in Salman shows lots of options. The "cornering tool" looks good I've never used one. Simple and cheap (not the Veritas!). They probably get overlooked as some sort of bottle opener.
Err...what is Salman?
 
Can you explain the benefit of this base please? Is it just to give more support on the work piece to prevent it tipping? And you use a bearing guided bit with it? Thanks
yes I use it with a Makita trimming router (Katsu is a cheaper but pretty much identical router)

It does make a big difference on reducing the risk of tipping -I use it extensively for rounding off the external corners of casement window frames, sashes etc -on mullions that are only 32mm wide its quite stable -I use one hand on the router body and one hand on the base to keep it in close contact with the work -so my hand is projecting side of the base plate and away from the cutter.


5013a9ea-95be-4999-af4e-317648f5a3a0_rt0701c_p_1500px.png



and the bits I use are either the chamfer bit from Wealdon

t8136.gif




or the rounding over bit from Wealdon
this has a slight taper so its less prone to dig in.

T1302-2.jpg
 
Err...what is Salman?

Dictionary of Woodworking Tools R. A. Salaman
Brilliant book, essential reading. 545 pages of text and illustrations, all hand tools.
Helps not only to identify things but also to point you at tools for particular jobs.
e.g. 80 pages on planes alone, including plane makers' tools
£10 to £30 on Ebay
 
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A good 1/4" plunge router is ideal for small chamfers. I'd argue better than a trim router because you have more base and a plunge handle to the side that helps you keep the weight over the supported half of the base pressing it firmly down on the surface of your work.
250 feet like this today. No issues.
 

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Very crisp work Sideways
May I ask if you keep the Y shape as is, or do you round it off or make a wee flat spot?

Nice to see the profile of maximum length bevels, seems I've not done large chamfers on three faces before, beyond easing an edge.
Your photo may well be of help in getting better results in future, thanks.

Tom
 
yes I use it with a Makita trimming router (Katsu is a cheaper but pretty much identical router)

It does make a big difference on reducing the risk of tipping -I use it extensively for rounding off the external corners of casement window frames, sashes etc -on mullions that are only 32mm wide its quite stable -I use one hand on the router body and one hand on the base to keep it in close contact with the work -so my hand is projecting side of the base plate and away from the cutter.


5013a9ea-95be-4999-af4e-317648f5a3a0_rt0701c_p_1500px.png



and the bits I use are either the chamfer bit from Wealdon

t8136.gif




or the rounding over bit from Wealdon
this has a slight taper so its less prone to dig in.

T1302-2.jpg
Thanks a lot. I have the Makita trimmer so this sounds good.
 
yes I use it with a Makita trimming router (Katsu is a cheaper but pretty much identical router)

It does make a big difference on reducing the risk of tipping -I use it extensively for rounding off the external corners of casement window frames, sashes etc -on mullions that are only 32mm wide its quite stable -I use one hand on the router body and one hand on the base to keep it in close contact with the work -so my hand is projecting side of the base plate and away from the cutter.


5013a9ea-95be-4999-af4e-317648f5a3a0_rt0701c_p_1500px.png



and the bits I use are either the chamfer bit from Wealdon

t8136.gif




or the rounding over bit from Wealdon
this has a slight taper so its less prone to dig in.

T1302-2.jpg
May I ask, what chamfer router bit would be ideal for making the absolute smallest chamfer, I.e. the equivalent to an eased edge with a sandpaper? This looks like it would make quite a substantial chamfer.
 
Very crisp work Sideways
May I ask if you keep the Y shape as is, or do you round it off or make a wee flat spot?
Tom
Thanks Tom :)
This project is a pair of single beds in Ash.
I originally intended to use a roundover bit to soften the edges but when i came to it, my smallest bit was a bigger radius than I thought looked right, so decided to chamfer the edges instead. I guess about 2.5mm on the diagonal.
I used a smaller chamfer on the headboard slats.
I have to sand the timber next as it's straight from the PT. I'll lose a bit of definition on these edges but I quite like the look and will try to keep it as crisp as I can including the Y's.
Finish is to be Osmo. I heard somewhere that a scraped finish is not recommended as too smooth, so I'll go to 220 grit with a ROS.
 
May I ask, what chamfer router bit would be ideal for making the absolute smallest chamfer, I.e. the equivalent to an eased edge with a sandpaper? This looks like it would make quite a substantial chamfer.
I use that bit for any size chamfer -mostly because although a bit dear it uses disposable TCT tips and they are harder than brazed TCT.

of course the height set in the router determines the chamfer size.
 

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