pgrbff
Established Member
I want to trim the ends of some maple-type logs before painting with end seal, at the moment they have very rough ends.
What handsaw will give me a clean cut?
What handsaw will give me a clean cut?
Best handsaw to cut 30-40cm diameter wet log? Bow saw?
- Thread starter pgrbff
- Start date
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Agent_zed
Established Member
I'm no sawing expert so this is just my thoughts on the subject.
A bow saw is going to wander as it is just designed to cut wide logs quickly. You are also likely to have a lot of saw marks as they are large toothed and it's quite likely the teeth are not perfectly aligned.
A big panel saw with a fine tooth is likely to be your best bet, something like this maybe Magnusson 14tpi Wood Floorboard Saw 20" (500mm) - Screwfix
It'll take longer to get through the log with the finer tooth but you should get a better finish. You'd just have to saw slowly and try and remain as straight as possible
A bow saw is going to wander as it is just designed to cut wide logs quickly. You are also likely to have a lot of saw marks as they are large toothed and it's quite likely the teeth are not perfectly aligned.
A big panel saw with a fine tooth is likely to be your best bet, something like this maybe Magnusson 14tpi Wood Floorboard Saw 20" (500mm) - Screwfix
It'll take longer to get through the log with the finer tooth but you should get a better finish. You'd just have to saw slowly and try and remain as straight as possible
I don't think any of the pruning saws or bow saws will give a smooth finish. Overall a bow saw fitted with a raker tooth blade is your best option. Dry wood needs a peg tooth blade. You might also consider a ratchet type lopers which will handle anything up to 40 cms diameter and will leave a smoother finish than a saw.
pgrbff
Established Member
I have tried with western and Japanese saws, the coarsest I have, it's just too wet.
pgrbff
Established Member
I think the only reasonably priced option might be a raker tooth Fiskars bowsaw.
worn thumbs
Established Member
Unless the piece is light enough to turn over,a bowsaw will be of little use.The frame will bottom out before you get very deep.The best bet is to find an old style crosscut and find a friend to stand at the other side.
This wouldn't be my preferred tooth form but there aren't too many good images of them near the top of my search.The more usual triangular tooth form would be better for a less rough finish on the cut.
This wouldn't be my preferred tooth form but there aren't too many good images of them near the top of my search.The more usual triangular tooth form would be better for a less rough finish on the cut.
Nail
Established Member
Loppers for 40cm diameter?? You’ve got bigger muscles th an me!
Agent_zed
Established Member
Do you mean 40mm (4cm)? The OP is talking about 40cm logs. I've never seen lopers that can cut through a 40cm log!
Nail
Established Member
Are you just cutting it neater to then seal and season for later? Does it really need that neat of a cut in that case?
Sorry , a bit early for me. Yes, I read it as 40 mm not cms. Actually a ratchet loper will do cuts up to 40 mm. The key is the ratchet mechanism which allows you to take two or three bites .However for 40 cms I think you will need a chainsaw.
Terry - Somerset
Established Member
If the intention is to seal the ends to avoid splitting whilst they dry, a cheap chain saw would be my choice.
From around £50 for a basic 240v power. Will cut through wet 30-40cm in just a couple of minutes.
From around £50 for a basic 240v power. Will cut through wet 30-40cm in just a couple of minutes.
niall Y
Established Member
I believe there is a trade -off between achieving a smooth cut and being able to easily cut wet wood . The strategy for wet wood is to use a saw with large gullets which gives rise to the special tooth profiles, called either crown tooth or farmers tooth and the bigger the teeth the easier the cut.
The OP's problem is that this will leave a fairly rough cut. I have - hanging up in my workshop - a handsaw that has been ground with one of these profiles and, unlike a bowsaw for chopping firewood, has fairly delicate teeth, which would probably give the right balance between ease of use and smoothness of cut I can't be sure of its original purpose, though my son believes that it was used for trimming pit -props
The OP's problem is that this will leave a fairly rough cut. I have - hanging up in my workshop - a handsaw that has been ground with one of these profiles and, unlike a bowsaw for chopping firewood, has fairly delicate teeth, which would probably give the right balance between ease of use and smoothness of cut I can't be sure of its original purpose, though my son believes that it was used for trimming pit -props
The big silky saws with coarse teeth are great for this, quick cutting, taper ground so no binding, a pretty good finish, the downside is the cost so depends how often you’ll be doing it.
Have had my Ibuki for coming up to 10 years and is indispensable when needed.
Have had my Ibuki for coming up to 10 years and is indispensable when needed.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Likely, I think.
I've got a cheapo mains power Florabest saw, it's not great, infact fairly pants compared to a petrol version.
The issue is the chain tensioning design constantly comes loose, so one good cut is enough for it
and attention of it needed thereafter.
Still though, compared to a new bowsaw blade what'll instantly get ruined, it's night and day.
Me auld fella has another battery saw, and it's tensioning design is a bit better compared.
Apart from those options, and the crosscut saws of old,
if really wishing to have something without electrons or petrol, and cannot find a crosscutting saw,
one option might be to make yer own frame to tension a Bahco blade to ridiculous sorta tension,
as I've never seen one for sale.
Be interesting to see if someone's made one.
Tom
Any thoughts on this one?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-1-4tpi-concrete-stone-panel-saw-26-660mm-/96879
To me it ticks some boxes: panel saw, so unlimited depth and some hope of a straight cut, 26" (660mm) long so you will have a decent stroke on 400mm material, coarse tooth pitch.
The only thing I would worry about is if there is not enough set on the teeth. However, being so coarse, they might easily be set using a hammer.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-1-4tpi-concrete-stone-panel-saw-26-660mm-/96879
To me it ticks some boxes: panel saw, so unlimited depth and some hope of a straight cut, 26" (660mm) long so you will have a decent stroke on 400mm material, coarse tooth pitch.
The only thing I would worry about is if there is not enough set on the teeth. However, being so coarse, they might easily be set using a hammer.
pgrbff
Established Member
That is what I thought.
worn thumbs
Established Member
It might work.I have never seen the result of anybody trying to set the teeth of a hardpoint saw,and would seek assurance before even trying such a thing.
pgrbff
Established Member
It really is very rough at the moment.
pgrbff
Established Member
They're pretty short at the moment as they were cut for firewood. I have 3 chainsaws but I wanted to lose as little as possible.
Nail
Established Member
What is your intention for after you’ve seasoned them?
