9fingers":35nvtrp8 said:Osmo polyx oil is good or just Danish oil which is easier to find and cheaper if that is an issue.
Chestnut have a stand at most shows and do a good range of finishes too.
Bob
Who is just trying to be helpful :lol:
andersonec":1flp619j said:Oil and wax would be my choice too, there are various oils on the market, Danish oilo Finishing oil etc. Plus a coat of wax to give it a silky feel. Then there are the varnishes, If you have a look at the Axminster site there is a Polyvine wax varnish or you could just wax it. The thing about wax alone is that it is easy to repair, simply go over it again, and with it being a book case it wouldn't be taking a lot of rough handling.
This link was posted on here before, http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting ... season-one scroll down on the right side of the small video screen, they mention steel wool but this shouldn't be used with oak.
Lord Kitchener":24xu20hj said:What sort of finish do you want, matt, shiny, something in between? It's a separate issue from colour.
andersonec":uspnxmtk said:Oil and wax would be my choice too, there are various oils on the market, Danish oilo Finishing oil etc. Plus a coat of wax to give it a silky feel. Then there are the varnishes, If you have a look at the Axminster site there is a Polyvine wax varnish or you could just wax it. The thing about wax alone is that it is easy to repair, simply go over it again, and with it being a book case it wouldn't be taking a lot of rough handling.
This link was posted on here before, http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting ... season-one scroll down on the right side of the small video screen, they mention steel wool but this shouldn't be used with oak.
woodbloke":1j7sv6e7 said:Osmo Poly-X is the stuff I use most of the time now, finished off with a coat of wax. The stuff is easy to apply (just two very thin brush coats...emphasize the 'thin') and then wax applied with a grey Webrax (don't use wire wool on oak) followed by a good polish with a soft duster - Rob
Streepips":2py4ad88 said:I would brush on a coat of shellac, denib it and finish with wax.
Mick, I've used the Fiddes as well from Ax and it's very similar to the Osmo. Two thin brush coats are all that's needed, leave overnight (ideally) and de-nib 'twixt coats with a bit of worn 320g...then wax. The Fiddes is a satin finish but the Osmo is available in matt which I prefer, but as ever, it's horses for dooberies! :lol: - RobMickCheese":2bcirr4m said:woodbloke":2bcirr4m said:Osmo Poly-X is the stuff I use most of the time now, finished off with a coat of wax. The stuff is easy to apply (just two very thin brush coats...emphasize the 'thin') and then wax applied with a grey Webrax (don't use wire wool on oak) followed by a good polish with a soft duster - Rob
Rob
I have just bought a tin of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil from Axminster which I think is similar to the above, I intend to use it on oak.
Can I just ask, once you brush it on do you wipe it off or just leave it? And, before the second coat do you sand? I have seen some conflicting advice.
Mick
If in doubt, leave it out The feet are usually attached with screws, so I'd make some in both and stand the unit on them and see what you think...they're easy enough to remove if they don't look right. I had the same issue with a box I made recently where it was standing on some square brass feet. The consensus of opinion when I posted the final pics was that the box looked better without them...so they came off :mrgreen: - RobMickCheese":2orhlnyk said:... I have turned some small bun feet from mahogany but I am not convinced with the colour, maybe should re-do them in oak.
andersonec":1em0otxf said:Oil and wax would be my choice too, there are various oils on the market, Danish oilo Finishing oil etc. Plus a coat of wax to give it a silky feel. Then there are the varnishes, If you have a look at the Axminster site there is a Polyvine wax varnish or you could just wax it. The thing about wax alone is that it is easy to repair, simply go over it again, and with it being a book case it wouldn't be taking a lot of rough handling.
This link was posted on here before, http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting ... season-one scroll down on the right side of the small video screen, they mention steel wool but this shouldn't be used with oak.
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