Best Drawer Construction when using full-extension slides

[sean_in_limerick]

Hi Guys,
I am currently designing an oak tv unit with a drawer that i want to install using full-extension slides. Does anybody have an opinion on the best drawer construction type to use. I would like to inset the drawer into the cabinet flush with the front. I was hoping to cut my teeth with some hand-cut dovetails with this project but is this possible with this drawer type? I would like to avoid the false-front, rabitted type of drawer construction if possible.

Cheers, Sean

 

[Philly]

Sean
I made a coffee table recently with full extension drawers.Dovetailed the drawer boxes and added on zebra wood fronts. There are some photos of the construction here....
http://www.philsville.co.uk/coffee_table.htm
The second page will be helpful!
best regards
Philly

 

[sean_in_limerick]

that's a beautiful piece Philly - very impressive wide board! What i would like to do is avoid fitting false fronts if possible and use lapped dovetails ideally - but using full-extension slides. Incidentally, how much room do you need for the slides as mine never came with any instructions and the shop is useless - about 25mm?

 

[Chris Knight]

Philly,
Which brand of full-extension slides did you buy? I need to fit some and have bought a reasonable looking set of them off Ebay more cheaply than the Accurides from Hafele but if they don't work as they should for any reason, I'd like to know if there is a halfway house (pricewise) in side-mounted slides.

 

[jasonB]

Biggest problem with full ext runners & inset fronts is that the draw box needs to be 25mm narrower than the carcase whether using tandem or "filing cabinet" type slides. You will have to use a rebated front with half blind dovetails to make it work.

The Filing cabinet type can be mounted flat under the draw but you need a thick base and the length of slide is restricted to 400mm it think.

Tandem type of runner would be best with a rebated front as you can adjust draw position with these.

Jason

 

[Chris Knight]

You will have to use a rebated front with half blind dovetails to make it work.

Also, a planted front or a front with sliding dovetails could be used to the same effect.

 

[jasonB]

I usually go for the planted option but he didn't want that, hadn't thought of the sliding DT option, assune you would stop the slot short of the top and have slightly shorter sides and to hide the dovetail.

Jason

 

[sean_in_limerick]

good stuff guys, i don't understand the terminology though, what do you mean by planted?

 

[sean_in_limerick]

Philly, i got my draw extensions locally (limerick ireland) and they just came in a plastic covering, no maker that i can see

 

[jasonB]

Planted front would be the same as false ie a piece of wood screwed to the front of your draw box.

Jason

 

[Philly]

Chris
Runners were from B+Q Warehouse-about £12 a pair if I remember correctly.
Sean,
leave 12mm either side for the runners.
Cheers
Philly

 

[jasonB]

I prefer the tandemtype slides as you can't see them when the draw is open unlike the ball bearing type but they are a bit more time consuming to fit.

Jason

 

[Chris Knight]

I usually go for the planted option but he didn't want that, hadn't thought of the sliding DT option, assune you would stop the slot short of the top and have slightly shorter sides and to hide the dovetail.

Jason

Jason - had overlooked his preference Re the sliding dovetails - sides can be same height as the front with or without stopped dovetails. If stopped just saw off the tail on the sides - possibly this is what you meant?

Philly, thanks for info.

 

[Noel]

Screwyfix - £33.99 for 5 pairs of standard full extensions, 550mm. No name brand.

Noel

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Sean, there are lots of options. Drawer slides can be side mounted or undermounted. Side mounts require ~12.5 mm of space either side of the drawer box so you lose a bit of storage, but they are comparitively economical to buy.

Undermount types such as the Häfele or Tandem brands suggested by others require only a small side gap-- 4.5 mm or less either side can be achieved if set out the right way.

It's certainly possible to do hand cut dovetails for this type of drawer using solid wood, but it's not the only way; they can just be bits of nailed together ply and glue at the cheap, but almost as strong end.

Hand cut dovetails if you choose to go with that type of construction will most likely only be at the back because for an inset drawer front, not a planted drawer front, you'd most likely use a sliding dovetail housing to attach the front to the sides.

Here's a link to one of my bits of verbal diarrhoea that describes drawer making using Undermount slides. You might be put off the idea once you work your way through all the waffle, ha, ha--- ha, ha, ha. Slainte.

http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/jones/jones6.shtml

 

[frank]

i read this on the ww news group (idiot) inside of drawer is outside of tree .i must remember this .

frank