Bench sanders? small combi model or a larger disc?

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MG1977

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Well hello there...

Managed to save up enough beer tokens to trade in for a new piece of kit and I've been looking at getting a bench sander.

Trouble is I'm not sure if the disc's on the combi models are going to be large enough (most are only 150, so that's 75mm of safe working area!) Record do what looks like a smart 300mm disc (DS300) which is about the same price as the 6"/4" combi clones. They do a nice 10"/6" but that's getting a little pricey at £399 :shock: :shock:

So I'm wondering, what do you guys get the most utility out of? A 4" belt or a 12" disc

As ever, appreciative of any thoughts or advice you can offer. many thanks :)
 
All depends on what you make and how you make it. For fine furniture making I use a 12" disc sander regularly for end grain, where as I'd have little use for a 4" bench belt sander. My long grain sanding needs are best met with,

- a range of portable random orbit sanders
- a portable disc sander for heavy stock removal and shaping
- a large (400mm x 600mm?) piece of 25mm MDF completely covered with 180 grit on one side and 240 grit on the other. For ensuring a perfect mating face for, say, a box lid to a box body, this gets the job done.
- a drum sander for thicknessing sawn veneers
- the normal compliment of hand sanding sheets. The only twist is that I regularly use self adhesive abrasive papers on hard flat or shaped blocks, mainly to sand right into corners or when I need a sanding block with a "safe" edge.

So for my money I'd say get a 300mm disc sander but check it has a good fence and an accurately settable tilting table. Armed with those you'll find a decent size disc sander will take care of most of your end grain issues on boards up to about 100mm wide (remember, the central section of a disc sander is useless as the speed drops to zero towards the centre)

One other question is how the paper gets attached to the disc? The 300mm Record sander that I once used was a bit of a pipper as it was difficult to remove the table for easy access to the disc. You also need to choose between velcro and self adhesive discs. For ultimate accuracy go for self adhesive, but cleaning off glue residue is a chore. For ultimate convenience go for velcro, but the slight softness can fractionally dub edges. You pays your money, you takes your choice.

Good luck!
 
MG1977":1zpj4v2y said:
They do a nice 10"/6" but that's getting a little pricey at £399 :shock: :shock:
There is an Axminster version of that machine in the For Sale section here at the moment.
Personally if I can have one machine it would be the 12" disk, the 6" disk is pretty useless unless you make dolls house furniture.
 
custard":3rrd8r1q said:
All depends on what you make and how you make it. For fine furniture making I use a 12" disc sander regularly for end grain, where as I'd have little use for a 4" bench belt sander. My long grain sanding needs are best met with,

- a range of portable random orbit sanders
- a portable disc sander for heavy stock removal and shaping
- a large (400mm x 600mm?) piece of 25mm MDF completely covered with 180 grit on one side and 240 grit on the other. For ensuring a perfect mating face for, say, a box lid to a box body, this gets the job done.
- a drum sander for thicknessing sawn veneers
- the normal compliment of hand sanding sheets. The only twist is that I regularly use self adhesive abrasive papers on hard flat or shaped blocks, mainly to sand right into corners or when I need a sanding block with a "safe" edge.

So for my money I'd say get a 300mm disc sander but check it has a good fence and an accurately settable tilting table. Armed with those you'll find a decent size disc sander will take care of most of your end grain issues on boards up to about 100mm wide (remember, the central section of a disc sander is useless as the speed drops to zero towards the centre)

One other question is how the paper gets attached to the disc? The 300mm Record sander that I once used was a bit of a pipper as it was difficult to remove the table for easy access to the disc. You also need to choose between velcro and self adhesive discs. For ultimate accuracy go for self adhesive, but cleaning off glue residue is a chore. For ultimate convenience go for velcro, but the slight softness can fractionally dub edges. You pays your money, you takes your choice.

Good luck!

When would a disk sander be more preferable to a stationary belt sander (like the Jet OES-80CS)?
 
I mainly make wooden toys and boxes, but would also like to try to build a gaming table and a sideboard. I have an array of hand-held jobbies and a 'sanding plate' similar to Custard's (na na na naaa, sorry couldn't resist as I'm a huge R&C fan!! :D)

That Jet is a serious bit of kit at almost £1200 so I'm guessing it very much has a place within the more serious shop arsenal, but for me, working out of a spare room in the house (zero outside space!) compromise is a necessity.

If I do go with the 12" disc, are record a good brand? There's a draper on sale at Yandles, but I'm assuming that this will be pretty naff as I've always been disappointed with any draper tools I've purchased in the past
 
12" disc sander. The cheap combi machines are too small to be useful.

I have the Record. My first one failed very quickly and after some faffing around they eventually replaced the motor. Most people will probably not change discs that often and in that case it will be fine. Dust extraction is pretty good. Brake stop is pretty useless and everyone removes the quarter guard immediately. Table adjustment is OK. Mitre slide is OK. You get what you pay for and I think it is pretty good for the money.

For hobby/ light trade use the Record is fine. For more serious trade I would get a more heavy duty machine. I also have a trade rated big bench top belt sander and I still use the disc sander a lot.
 
Depending on room, and what you like doing, I have a union graduate Lathe with a 12" face plate on the bowl Turing side and the Union Graduate sanding table. Very capable and effective. There is available a cowel for dust extraction that come up on auction sites. There have been some very cost effective Union Gradate lathes on auction sites recently.

As an all rounder I also have, which is my go to sander, an edge sander. I have the Jet version. Very accurate, great tables, and also brilliant for fitting draws where a smidgen off the sides is necessary. Again, come up on auction sites for roughly the same price as a new bench top disc / belt sander.
 
When I bought my Graduate bowl lathe, it came with a sanding table, 14" aluminium face plate and dust shroud for outboard fitting. I was going to sell it on to recoup some of the outlay but having read comments here, I shall now keep it and set it up. I don't know if 14" will kill a 1 hp motor but i can always fit smaller abrasive discs. Just need to sot out a mitre gauge now

K
 
I have a 4" belt / 6" disc sander combi, I wish I had bought bigger. the disc I've given up on altogether. The 4" belt gets a lot of use in my boxmaking, but again I wish I had bought a 6".
I can use the 4" belt for end grain though, although I can only sand pieces as long as 8".

Strangely, a new neighbour has just in the last hour given me a record 7" bench mounted disc sander he no longer uses. I might get some use out of that as the price was right.
 
Straight edges on end grain can be sanded on an edge sander, you add a sacrificial piece against the part using the mitre gauge.
 
I have the Record 12 inch jobbie and use it every day m in the shop. (Hobby not work commitment). I also have a clone 6 inch disk/4inch belt sander that was bought first. This rarely gets used, but the belt is used occasionally. I wouldn't buy this again, but I wouldn't be without the Record 12 inch.
 
Deema,
Do you find the motor on the Graduate is man enough for a 12" faceplate sander? What size motor do you have?

K
 
It's just the standard Graduate motor, and yes, its meaty enough for a 14" face plate. In fact the bigger the face plate the better as the peripheral speed at the same gearing increases compared to smaller discs. This allows you to use a lower gear ratio reducing the work for the motor and the extra weight helps to maintain the speed should you really have a big lump.
 
I have the record 150disc with combined belt sander. The 150 disc is just too small to be useful but you can flip the belt up vertically and attach the table to the vertical belt sander. This then works very well and gives a full width sanding face at full speed and easier to change grits. The disc sander element was also a disappointment because the disc did not run true but wobbled in and out when running.

HTH
Neil


Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
..after months of deliberating re combi or larger single disc I got the record 12 inch...really glad i did, combined with a small bandsaw does 90% of what I need to do.

..so for me it would always be the larger single disc...no brainer...
 
once bought a 4"X6" jobbie about 7 years ago. I used it intermittently for a couple of years but then declared it as non functional and sold it on.

My approach is a bit odd I am told but it works for me. I made my own disc sander from an old 3hp motor with a 16" aluminium disc attached. The table was designed to be easy to move and remove.

About 12 months ago I saw what I think you are all calling an edge sander on Mattius Wandel's web site and made one for an upcoming project. About 48 inches wide, 10" belt, able to tip from vertical to horizontal or any angle in between with good registration of the table. I have started to use it a lot and quite like it with not much to improve on.
 
Thanks everyone. Unfortunately I currently do not have space for a lathe, but think I will get the use out of the larger disk. So I'll be having a quick look around for one on the bay first before heading over to DM.

Beech, I like the look of the MW edge sander. He's a legend. It'll be a bit of a challenge, so any tips would be welcomed. Did the build take long?
 

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