Beal buffing system taper

[paulmann]

Hi again,

this may be a silly question but I am having problems getting the buffer taper to stay in my lathe head, as it comes up to speed more often than not it starts to come out of the head and I have to catch the thing which is not pleasant. Have I missed something or is it me being stupid ?

As usual your advice would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Paul.

 

[CHJ]

Paul, is it fitted via the Morse Taper? If so then to be safe it should be fitted with a drawbar to hold it in the spindle, there should be a thread in the back end of the taper for this.

I know it is probably near enough stationary due to slipping when this happens (actually drops out) but it can be dangerous..

Morse tapers like a lot of other spec. taper fits rely on in-line pressure to maintain satisfactory drive.

If you don't have a drawbar facility try cleaning the tapers thoroughly, just in case it is dirt and not just a taper mis-match.

 

[wizer]

I'm assuming it's the right MT for your lathe? When you put it in is it completely snug?

 

[Turn It In]

Hi Paul,
I quite agree with Chas that you should check for the cleanliness of the taper. The angles of morse tapers are very critical to provide good alignment and the slightest inaccuracy will give a bad fit. Morse tapers are self locking and a gentle tap will lock them together requiring a sharp tap to the rear to remove them.
As Chas said a draw bar is often used when positive drive is required for example on a milling machine as the cutting action of the milling cutter can pull the chuck out of the taper.
I would suggest that you try a drill chuck in your head stock as the tapers on a good quality mandrel are usually accurate and it may be an inaccurate taper on your buffing spindle, possibly caused by anti corrosion plating.

Out club has just purchased a Nova lathe and one demonstrator tried to fit his drill chuck into the head stock only to find the headstock taper was not long enough and the taper would not lock.

I hope these pointers help,

Regards,
Ian

 

[TEP]

Mornin' Paul.

Sorry to hear about your problem, I agree with all that has been said about morse tapers, assuming it uses that for mounting to the lathe. Another idea which I have used is to bring up your tail stock and just touch against the end on the arbour. Stops it coming out, just restricts your access to the wheel quite a bit. Other than that I guess you may have to get a different mounting system, cause you don't want that wheel coming off at speed.

I built up my own set of buffing wheels because I wanted to use the small spiral cones you can buy. I hold the cone in my chuck and just spin the wheels off and on as needed. I tried using a morse taper but had the same problems as you, and the MT I had didn't have a thread in the end for a draw bar.

Good luck!

 

[CHJ]

.......
As Chas said a draw bar is often used when positive drive is required for example on a milling machine as the cutting action of the milling cutter can pull the chuck out of the taper.
.....

Ian, it is not only cutters, drills etc. that can loosen a taper, anything like a buffing mop or sanding drum that is not truly balanced & subject to side loads can readily encourage the taper to 'let go'.

The taper is only designed to provide accurate concentric alignment, hence why pillar drills for DIY/small workshop use with offset head facilities without the Drawbar facility warn against use for sanding and buffing when not vertical where the table can restrict the disengagement.

 

[paulmann]

Thanks all, the taper is the correct one but tends to start coming out at speed and I have to support it until the lathe spools down not very safe I know. I like the idea of using the tailstock and can maybe come up with a small adaptor to use the revolving centre.

Thanks to everyone great forum and for me a beginner on his own it really has made a difference.

Best wishes to all.

Paul.