Beading on MDF

[Michael7]

Hi all!,
I'm going to have a go at making a freestanding kitchen larder of sorts. It's going to be painted MDF. I quite like the beading used in the photo. What way is it jointed to get the 45 degree angle. It's puzzling me. The only way I can think is the end of a board is cut both at 90 degrees and 45 but that would be awkward.

Thanks,
Michael.

 

[mseries]

it's a simple mitre ? Isn't it ?

 

[murdoch]

Hi, we make lots of kitchens and use this cottage bead a lot. Its usually done by having a seperate frame called a 'face frame' which has the beading moulded onto it. this frame is then usually biscuited to the carcass and the doors are hung off it.

I'm not great at explaining things but type 'making a face frame kitchen' into google and you'll get loads of good illustrations.

 

[Michael7]

Yes mseries, it looks like a mitre joint. I do like the look of the thicker face frame that you pointed out Murdoch and means I don't have to do angled cuts. Thanks

 

[Michael7]

To get the beading running around the doors and drawers the separate face frame looks to be the way to do it

 

[RogerBoyle]

It looks like a simple **** beading attached to the frame :duno:

 

[custard]

If you feel up to the challenge you can really take a piece like this up to the next quality level by rebating the hinge into the bead, so that the knuckle of the hinge and the bead form a continuous, unbroken "cylinder".

 

[Michael7]

If you feel up to the challenge you can really take a piece like this up to the next quality level by rebating the hinge into the bead, so that the knuckle of the hinge and the bead form a continuous, unbroken "cylinder".

Nice tip, thanks.

 

[sawdust1]

The way i do it is to make and glue up your face frames, then machine up the **** beading as a separate item then mitre and glue / pin to the face frame openings flush with the fronts, use a small block of wood for this. When dry turn over and sand flush with the inside edge. Simple !

 

[Tierney]

Doing it as sawdust1 suggested is the less stressful way, as you creep up on the fit of the mitre with a shooting board. You can also use real wood for the bead; which you can either buy or machine up yourself, and it will have a better finish than routed MDF - make sure the wood is acclimatised to minimise movement.

DT