Basic question: How deep to rebate tongue and groove into framing for sheds?

[el_Pedr0]

I'm building a bike shed out of pressure treated 14mm thick tongue and groove softwood with a nominal width of 95mm. I'm using pressure treated softwood framing/carcassing with a 45 x 45mm cross section (finished).

What's a sensible depth to rebate into the framing on the sides and at the bottom and top of the panel of T&G planks?

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I am not sure whether I have interpreted the question correctly - but why would you rebate the T&G into the sides, top and bottom.

Normal construction would fix the T&G on top of the frame. Rebating will simply make the frame weaker, and create traps for moisture/damp.

I would also guess that there may be (say) 3 or 4 frames ~50-60cm wide to allow for the length of the bike shed. T&G probably comes in 1.8m + lengths - for best weather protection, the longer the planks and less the joins, the better.

 

[Jacob]

T&G outside best fitted horizontally with tongue up, groove down. Vertically it's a water trap.
Yes just fix on top of frame.

 

[el_Pedr0]

Ah! I was planning on emulating the one in the pictures below. Bad idea?

 

[Reffc]

Personally I'd T&G as advised above. Less chance for gaps to appear and moisture to penetrate. You can always run vertical strips over the corners to further prevent moisture penetration and run a bead of silicone down the inside of each sealing strip or better still buy some pressure treated corner trim to finish.

 

[Jameshow]

I did one simalar to the above just for the pet foods (rabbits and chickens)

I used CLS corners and half a CLS cleat inside.

Floor back and roof were 9mmply.