Bandsaw Identity ?

[Badger X]

Evening folks. Newbie here signed up initially hoping someone can give me a bit of a pointer on make and model of a bandsaw from the attached image. Seller had no clue and I can't see any obvious markings. Not much to go on but I'm guessing if you're in the know it might jump out at you. Cheers.

 

[Thingybob]

Looks like an early Electra Becum

 

[Linus]

Looks very much like and old Axminster AWSBS bandsaw from about 2000, or another make using the same factory but all pretty much the same beast. 10" mouth and 5" depth of cut if I remember right.

If you look at this YT vid it will give you an idea about it albeit a later model.

 

[alan895]

I'd say something like a Draper BS315 / 76237 but the design has been sold under various names if you're looking for parts, manuals etc.

 

[Badger X]

Thanks guys. Yeah a manual is the first goal, a new blade and then perhaps addditional parts as I start to clean it up.

 

[Ttrees]

Looks like an early Electra Becum

I have a green one 315 at the folks, don't see the belt tension wheel at the bottom right,
and the tension lever looks different,
not that it wouldn't have been upgraded, as it's a bit of a flimsy arrangement .

If it is a BAS 315 of some description with another paint job...
Not seen one that colour, but there are similarity's for sure.
Those zinc guide castings are the same, and are liable to crumble upon adjustment!
There is a really lousy arrangement for assembly also, as that plate which has only two self tapping screws into the hollow ali guidepost.
My biggest issue would be the aluminium or whatever metal which is not cast iron bandwheels,
and the tension assembly, as that is the most important thing about a bandsaw IMO.
The frame itself is really stout.

Not got the machine to rip consistently on even pallet timber,
but not had a full teardown and inspection.
Seems someone near pulled their hair out on it already, as the jack screws
(adjusts bottom wheel) threads got stripped and new nuts were welded on.
I didn't try and adjust anything to see, no vibration so didn't go there.

I suppose it might be a bit of a bad review, as in not giving the machine a chance with new or dressed tires and all that, but have yet to see anyone using one to have any confidence in it.
(using the fence that is)
The fence and rail system is the worst thought out system on a bandsaw that I have ever seen, one needs to disassemble the fence which would blow away with the wind,
and then disassemble the rail with bolts into the table.

The only part I agree about is the slot at the front.
I wouldn't buy it if you intend to use the rip fence, regardless of whether you upgraded the fence, I'd still be skeptical of any consistency.

If just cutting curves then the machine should be capable enough though.

A new bearing setup can be bought by Bedford tool and co,
some googling might suggest this is a popular thing to do.
Factor that into cost compared to something which would likely be better which might have cast iron wheels, should you wish to do a real good job setting it up and testing etc.

Hope that helps
Tom

 

[Badger X]

Thanks Tom, I picked it up inexpensively and won't be asking too much from it. I appreciate the advice even if I admit to being a little disappointed. I'll have a proper play with it and see how I get on. It's not even in the shop yet so a bit early for me to be too down on it.

 

[Ttrees]

I didn't say it was guaranteed poop though, as I didn't mentioning it bogging down.
Sorry I don't have any photos apart from one or two.

The tires are have a glazed look to them on mine, and are quite thin,
could be nearly getting slightly hard and would think that some attention to them would be necessary if wanting to use a fence for ripping.
One would either need to freehand to a line or use a point fence.

Having had a good bit of experience with tires needing attention, I can attest that it can make or break a machine, as in refuse to cut and burn compared to feeding it through as fast as you can manage!
I probably should have been a bit clearer in saying that I didn't give the machine a fair chance.
Not saying it couldn't be worked on, I welded up a rough set of guides and that was enough for the job, and made it mobile for making curved profiles on a gate, which was abandoned for some reason or another.
If it were in my workshop it would certainly be getting a lot more attention than that.
I'd be doing alignment checks, dressing tires if possible, and upgrading the tensioning device if necessary,
Or take it easy and not strip the screw, should it be the same as mine, and use some tuffsaws blades which are thinner gauge (as in the kerf, or width of cut left in the timber) than most places, and not go with too wide of a blade either.
Looks beefier than original, so could well be upgraded already.

Can't remember why I didn't make a different mount for the guides to mount to the post,
Looking at the machine during Christmas, tensioned blade up as the brothers crew were over, and the guides got loose on it's own, so keep an eye on that.
Should be easy to fix that with some sort of insert though.

So it's not that the machine hasn't potential, but if those tires were the same, I'd not
expect miracles.


A much better design fence is easy to make, simple drop on/off style (flat bar bolted to table) works best as its handier for crosscutting to lift off instead of disassembling.
S

 

[Thingybob]

I have the BAS 315 not had any problems , Mine takes an 88" blade and has two speeds by changing belt on drive pully and bottom wheel simple job takes about a minute , Blades available at tool station at a good price only one type 1/2" 6tpi fine for cutting tennons cut thousands on mine , Also bought a range of blades on internet a good sourse of parts when you identify make / model Miles Tools and they have plenty of parts drawings free to use on a multitude of machines some dating back a while . My BAS bought back in 1994 and still looks new .

 

[Linus]

Thanks guys. Yeah a manual is the first goal, a new blade and then perhaps addditional parts as I start to clean it up.

Don't know if it's of any use but I found the old manual for the Axi one I had. See if it helps cos I think they're all out of the same factory.

Cheers

Lyn

 

[Badger X]

Don't know if it's of any use but I found the old manual for the Axi one I had. See if it helps cos I think they're all out of the same factory.

Cheers

Lyn

Much appreciated. I'll be properly tearing it down at the weekend. Does look like a bas15 tho I'll be damned if I can tell the difference between the 15 and 16 and various models. Looks to be 13+ inches throat to the blade and twin speed. Thinking of picking up the powertools upgrade kit for the guide assembly tho I may look at the axminster one too.

 

[Badger X]

Well, having stripped it and overehusiasticakly bought a new blade I don't think this is a bas315. 315 look to have a blade length of 2235. The existing one on this is 2410 or thereabouts. pipper. Anyone any further thoughts ? 34cm throat.

 

[Ttrees]

Would have thought there'd be some label on the column.
That's no issue if you're trying to find it for getting the blade size correct.
Just measure with some tape or string when the top wheel is half way in its travel,
and there should be a bit of play there for too short or too long.

Tom

 

[Badger X]

Thanks Tom.. yeah no problem finding a blade. Just more problematic finding parts such as upgraded guides.

 

[Ttrees]

Presuming those zinc castings are fractured or broken?
If not, then I'd just clean and grease or buy replacements which press out.
If really bad the code/size should be on one of the races.

I reused those bits I had and made a lash up of mine
rough as a badgers buttocks but work OK
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/shop-made-guides-elektra-beckum-bas-315-metabo-bas-316.101765/
I wouldn't think there is much to adapting some cheaper ones, , should you see something suitable and not so spendy.
bearing in mind max capacity is not going to be likely utilized, so say 5mm less height isn't going to matter much.
I'd sooner be paying my money/attention into tires, but I've no want for ultra fast adjustment of guides for curve cutting as I generally keep a blade on specifically for ripping or resawing without needing to change blades.

You might want the opposite and regard tire wear as a bit more consumable,
and rely on the guides to cut curves without needing to squeeze as much from the saw
as one breaking down timbers.

Hopefully you can get that blade cut and rewelded somewhere.
If you happened to buy from Ian, guess he will do that for you should you ask.

Good luck

Tom

 

[Badger X]

Thanks Tom. Original guides and everything are all in pretty good condition barring a bit of rust on bearings and some scoring on thrust bearings but was intending to renew and upgrade.... not essential by any means. Tires appear in good condition. I suspect the machine has had very little wear but generally just been in in considerate environments without much love. Having stripped and rebuilt most of it today its not running badly at all. Blade I bought will be scrap as its 15cm too short. Such is life.