Bandsaw help

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Mrs C

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Hi,

I have just inherited a little bandsaw, model Axminster Jbs125. It cuts beatifully through ply but struggles through any thing thicker.

Am i expecting too much or is there anything I can do to make it happier?

Thanks
 
when you say that it struggles, what is happening? is it not cutting/stalling or not cutting straight.

your blade is probably blunt and/or has too many teeth for thicker material. work on having 3 teeth in the material at a time, so if it is 1" thick, you need 3 or 4TPI, for half inch, 6TPI etc.

the bandsaw has a capacity of 125mm, so it should cut most of that when set up correctly, and if you take it slowly. It is a small saw, so will probably be at its happiest at a max of 2-3 inches.

I would contact tuffsaws and discuss what you want to cut- they will recommend a blade, and be cheaper than the competition too. you need a size of 56 1/2" and max 1/2" wide. http://www.poolewood.co.uk/acatalog/JBS125_Bandsaw.html
 
According to the spec's that's a 150W bandsaw. Even with a sharp blade you aren't going to be re-sawing white oak like a hot knife through butter...
 
Hello Mrs C and welcome to the forum.

Little bandsaws like that are nice to work with provided they are set up correctly and that takes a little bit of time. On this forum thare are quite a number of woodworkers with bandsaws and if you can be more specific with your location (not your address, just area or nearest city) then you may find someone close by who would be prepared to help you with this. The sort of blade you may need depends of what you would like to do with the bandsaw and Tuffsaw blades are the very best, remarkably low cost and Ian Black is very helpful. If you are anywhere near me, I would be pleased to help if you wish.

Malcolm
 
There are a number of issues with small saws, not just how much room there is underneath the blade guides.
You do need the right blade for the job. The BS is just a driving force, it's the blade that does the cutting, of course.
Marcros is right about the number of teeth. 3-4 TPI for ripping "normal" sizes is about right. More teeth for thinner stock(otherwise each tooth just goes BANG as it hits the workpiece). Narrow blades for curvy stuff, the widest it will take for straight rip cuts.

BUT.

It is a small saw. Not a lot of power. But much more importantly, it won't be the most rigid machine ever built, and that matters. The blade - any blade - will only perform its best if it is tensioned properly. Just like pulling an elastic band, a wide, thick, blade is harder to tension properly than a narrow, thin one, and most small hobby saws are not rigid enough to tension wide blades properly, no matter if the wheels themselves are wide enough to take the blade. So you will get best results if you don't take the saw to its limits. Choose a blade of, say, 10mm wide, with 3tpi for ripping, with a thin kerf, and you should be able to tension that properly. And anything smaller, of course.

I have a big BS that copes with anything I throw at it, but for years I had a little Elu and did a lot with it. I wish I still had it, actually.

Get the right blade for the job, set it up properly and you will be smiling as you cut.

Just don't expect to pull a caravan with a mini.

Steve

PS Buy your blades from Tuffsaws, they are the best and not expensive. That's a rare animal, but in this case it really does exist. And it really does make a difference.
 
Many thanks, looks like I need to learn about blades and perhaps if I look after it properly it will grow into a better model
 
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