Bandsaw boxes, which blade?

[woodpig]

It seems the prefered size is 3/16" x 10 TPI? It's also been mentioned this blade size blade can also be used for slicing off the back of the box and drawer so no blade change is required, is this right? I ask because I notice that Tufsaws can supply a slightly thinner blade in 1/4" which may be better? Sorry for all the questions I just don't want to buy the wrong blade! Thanks in advance.

 

[Frank S]

I use the 3/16 x 10 TPI blade from Tuffsaws and have made many bandsaw boxes. I think they are great blades and would recommend them. The 1/4" blade will limit the radius of cut and give a wider gap on the curves.
Hope this helps and let`s see some pics of your work.
Frank S

 

[Alexam]

The 3/16" will give you good results and Tuffsaw blades are the best. Smaller than that and yoiu would need to upgrade your top blade guide for something like the Carter Stabilizer. The only problem to watch out for with the 3/16and the 1/4 is that you have set up guides correctly and make sure that the blade teeth are behing the top and bottom guides. Otherwise you will damage the kerf of the teeth and find the blade does not cut so well.

 

[Baldhead]

Woodpig if you ask Ian at Tuffsaws he will tell you which blade(s) you need.

Baldhead

 

[DennisCA]

The 3/16" will give you good results and Tuffsaw blades are the best. Smaller than that and yoiu would need to upgrade your top blade guide for something like the Carter Stabilizer. The only problem to watch out for with the 3/16and the 1/4 is that you have set up guides correctly and make sure that the blade teeth are behing the top and bottom guides. Otherwise you will damage the kerf of the teeth and find the blade does not cut so well.

Good argument for wooden block guides, perhaps?

 

[Alexam]

....... Good argument for wooden block guides, perhaps?....

Certainly where small blades are used with conventional guides, although restricting the blade's turn may have an effect. Not tried wood blocks myself as I decided to go for the Carter Stabilizer.

Steve Maskerly has used a good method and shows it on one of his DVD demonstrations and it looks good.

 

[woodpig]

Thanks folks. Blade ordered. Now, where did those bowl blanks go when we moved house? ... :lol:

 

[Steve Maskery]

My Scheppach has bearing guides. I'm not sure how easy it would be to replace them with a wooden block, but for narrow blades like this, and I've fitted blades as small as 1/16", I simply stick a disk of thin MDF, the sort used as backer board in picture frames, onto the face of the bearings using double-sided tape. Then they can be adjusted so that they are actually touching the blade. When you switch on, the teeth cut into the MDF, but only so far, so you end up with the MDF touching and supporting the body, but the teeth not damaging, or being damaged by, the bearing. It's like a zero-clearance insert. I make up a couple of dozen disks at a time and they last me ages.