Bandsaw box finishing

[Alexam]

pops92, just seen your question on this. The first boxes I made were finished with sanding sealer and mycrocrystaline wax polish http://www.axminster.co.uk/chestnut-mic ... wax-951143. After sanding down through the grades to 320, I applied a coat of sanding sealer, allowed that to dry and then sanded again, but only with softer pressure. A second coat of sealer and then after sanding with 400 grit to get rid of the 'bits' and a couple more coats of the wax polish. I made quite a few boxes like this.

Then I looked at Tru Oil and found that a higher polished finish was easier, although the Tru Oil is rather expensive. I usually get the 3 oz bottles, but dont remove the aluminum seal, just use a tooth pick to make a small hole in the centre, which you can tape when finished before putting the cap on. A few drops go a long way, but sealing it up after each use keeps it going longer.

After sanding to 320. give a coat of sanding sealer first and allow to dry, then lightly sand again to 400 and use the tru-Oil, Be generious putting the first coat on and allow to dry partly for the first 5-10 mins, then gently rub off wth a lint free cloth. Allow to dry and gently sand with 400, then more Tru Oil with a cloth, rubbing it gently off and allowing to dry. Further coats will improve the final finish and it depends how glossy or satin you want it to look.

Tru-Oil can be used without the sanding sealer and will be absorbed in more depth but take longer to dry out. More coats are used when no sanding sealer has been used, so you need to try it out, perhaps on some wood that you have used for the box.

An essential part of the process and a rule, is to photograph the final job and put the photo on this site.

Malcolm

PS if you or anyone thinks I can help with anything, please PM me and I'll do what I can. If you are near enough, pop in, but call me first. Phone number on my web site.

 

[pops92]

Great information for me Malcom much appreciated I will keep this marked for future reference.
I have my first 2 boxes finished with flocking which surprisingly is very easy to apply. Will put them on here as soon as I get a chance.
Thanks again Malcom.

 

[user22161]

After sanding to 320. give a coat of sanding sealer first and allow to dry,

Hi Malcolm, I'm still at the beginning of the learning curve, particularly about finishing. I've never used sanding sealer and wonder what effect it has in maybe altering the finishing coats by not allowing them to be absorbed into the wood. On my first attempt at bandsaw box (or should I say the first to get through to finished :wink: ) I used Rustins Danish Oil but not too happy. Any pointers? I've got some spalled oak for my next attempt.

Graham.

 

[pops92]

Nice one Graham, I like the finish. Can you tell me the wood you used please?
Richard

 

[sunnybob]

The easiest finish of them all is wipe on poly.
I have also used baby oil, which shines well and has a slight perfume. baby oil MUST NOT be used on any thing that will come in contact with food, although there is a food grade mineral oil available from chemists.
Danish oil looks good, but fades away even quicker than baby oil.
After that, it all gets a bit arcane.

 

[Alexam]

Without sealing after sanding, the spalted woods may absorb far too much. I havn't tried oil directly onto spalted wood, but as the spalting is a little like a straw filled with sawdust, it will go straight through.

When you are going to flock the box drawers, you definately need to seal the inside of the drawers otherwise the glue colour will penetrate to the other side. This also applies to other woods and not just spalted. For an example, red, blue or green flocking glue seeping through to the other side would ruin to box.

Any comments on applying oil on spalted wood from others would be a benefit.

Malcolm

 

[pops92]

As promised the 2 boxes I have just finished.
One for you Malcom,how do you finish the inside of the outer case. With these two I have just sand the insides down and polished the inside with wax. Do people flock the inside?

 

[user22161]

Nice one Graham, I like the finish. Can you tell me the wood you used please?
Richard

Sapele and Oak. I like your boxes.

 

[user22161]

When you are going to flock the box drawers, you definately need to seal the inside of the drawers otherwise the glue colour will penetrate to the other side. This also applies to other woods and not just spalted. For an example, red, blue or green flocking glue seeping through to the other side would ruin to box. Malcolm

Thanks for that, will have to shop around for sealer. I didn't flock the drawers, used some Fablon type beize I had from a previous job.

 

[pops92]

Understand about the draw finishes, what I'm concerned about is the finish of the inside of the draw holder. How do you finish this once sanded and the back glued on?

 

[sunnybob]

Once you do the flocking the first time, you wont bother with stick on again. The difference is amazing.

I cant get the proper glue here for flocking as its flammable and cant be taken on a plane, but I contacted the makers in america and was told to use any thick outdoor metal paint. So I use hammerite gloss.

I dont seal the wood first and so far I have not had any bleed through of the paint and the flocking is good, so I suspect the glue is not too different to hammerite.
I very carefully mask off the edges and apply the paint thickly, then the flocking, then leave it alone for AT LEAST 24 hours. Then turn it over and gently tap out the excess. Then another 24 hours before using a fine brush to GENTLY get the rest of the rayon out of the drawer.

a tip when applying the paint / glue, dont brush towards the masking tape, you can push the paint up underneath it even if its well stuck down.
Sealer might help here, but I always varnish first (not the area to be flocked) and then when thats dry mask it off.

I leave it a week before actually using the drawer.

 

[pops92]

Yeah got the flocking sorted, nice to know about the hammerite will give that a try when I run out of the adhesive. Still need advice on the inside of the DRAW HOLDER please anyone?

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

 

[sunnybob]

I used stick on felt on the inside of the box on my first try because i couldnt get the inside of a circular hole smooth enough. I thought it looked terrible. i wouldnt do it again.
I havent seen any one flock the lower surface successfully. maybe Malcolm has but I havent seen a picture.

I would polish (sand) the surface to about 400 grit and then in my case use wipe on poly. I'm not into complicated finishes because I'm still very new at this woodworking lark and just dont know how to mix them.

I think its a case of judging the final owner of the box. If its a grandchild (I have three, and they all have toothfairy boxes and trinket boxes) then you want hard wearing, and they arent going to notice minor imperfections. if you think your work is good enough to sell or show and you have to impress judges, then the dynamics change and you have to spend more time on everything.
So after all that, my advice is ti stick some felt on it. If you dont like it, take it off and start again. there are no rules here, its whatever you like that counts.

 

[Alexam]

I just finish the void that takes the drawer in the same way that the outer box is finished. However, I have seen the inner void flocked and it does look good. Must give it a try sometime, although with the drawer going in and out, that may get damaged and not look too good after a short time. I wouldn't fancy sticking material inside with the difficulty of positioning.
Malcolm

 

[pops92]

Looking at doing one with ply and some kind of hardwood next laminated together the contrast looks good. Anyone made one like this. Was wondering about the ply causing a problem in the finishing process. Will only use the ply for the inner lamination.

 

[sunnybob]

mahogany and ply with a Padauk front and purple heart handles, matched pair.

Rosewood and ply with padauk front again;

rosewood, mahogany, iroku in the middle, padauk, maple, and of course... Ply.

Lots more that I wont bore you with. ply works extremely well, some of these boxes are now 2 years and older with no sign of seperation.

The ply takes all finishes that I use in its stride, but all these boxes are finished with home made wipe on poly..

 

[user22161]

Sunnybob, brilliant work and lovely finish.

 

[Alexam]

Excellent work an a lovely finish to them. It sounds like you are building a collection of them and perhaps you will be selling them soon.

Malcolm

 

[sunnybob]

Malcolm, dont worry, you have no competition there.

apart from the winged pair,and 1 commission piece they have all been given to family.
I work at them as and when I want, and point blank refuse to get into a pressure situation of being behind in delivery.

I'm currently struggling with two musical ballerina boxes for my grandchildren. One is laminated, the other is more traditional with maple sides and walnut top and bottom. I really dont like this traditional stuff, its bloody hard work.

 

[pops92]

Really like these boxes Sunnybob the centre one is my favourite. Now after cutting up these mahogany doors I have been give, will be doing a ply plus hardwood laminate box.