Bandsaw box finishing

[pops92]

Hi
Would welcome any advice on finishing my 2nd ever box. All the information I have found so far are american. Would like some advice from you guy's please. As I am only just starting in this any advice that's steering me in the right direction would be great. :lol:

 

[woodpig]

Where's Alex when you need him? :lol: I'm sure he'll be along in a while to tell you how he finishes his lovely bandsaw boxes. :wink:

 

[pops92]

Yeah was hoping he may be around,could have pm,d him but any input appreciated. :wink:

 

[marcros]

i think that his method is sanding through the grits and applying multiple coats of truoil

 

[pops92]

You've now got me looking what truoil is so on Google. Interesting reading,thanks for that imput food for thought.

 

[sunnybob]

I know its the "american way", but wipe on poly is what I use most of. Its exremely easy, lasts forever, and gives a really good shine.

Buying it ready made is expensive, but you can make your own at a third of the cost.

Sometimes they do come up with good ideas. (lol)

 

[pops92]

Will make a note of this one thanks for your suggestion.

 

[pops92]

Have now spent some time looking at wipe on varnish method. Going to make some up and give it a go.
I have half a tin of Ronseal clear yacht varnish left,anyone know if this polyurethane varnish? Looked all over google but still dont know,only know it can be thinned zas it says on the can.
Anyone know or used it for wipe varnishing?

 

[marcros]

What does it suggest cleaning your brush with? If it is white spirit, it is fine for mixing with oil for wipe on. If it says hot soapy water then it is water based and of no use.

 

[woodpig]

There's a Tru-oil recipe here:

http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/vi ... ?tid=12156

 

[pops92]

Looked at couple of articles on tru-oil it shows it as very time consuming to get the required result.
Will put that one on the back buner for now and go for the wipe on varnish method and see what result I get.
Thank for the link.

 

[sunnybob]

I have had a quick surf that suggests ronseal yacht varnish is a SATIN finish and it may not be suitable. try it on a scrap piece first.
Buy a tin of gloss OIL based polyeurethane (water based does not work, it will curdle when mixed). I use the cheapest one on the shelf and am happy with it.

wipe on is just what it says. No brushes.
A small piece of lint free cloth or even a small piece of sponge dipped in the mix and wiped over the box. No runs, no hairs stuck in the varnish.
I use latex gloves to avoid my fingers getting all stuck together.
Allow a good 24 hours for it to dry before a second coat.

 

[pops92]

Just had a light bulb moment.
!What if! I used a couple of coats of sanding sealant rubbed down,then went onto varnish wipe 50/50 for the ŕest of the build up.
Any reason not to or would it be a waste of time :?: :?:

 

[sunnybob]

poly diluted with white spirit IS the sealant. Youre over thinking it.

 

[ED65]

I agree you're overthinking this. Finishing is most definitely one area where the KISS principle should be applied (along with the 6-P rule of course) and it's not helping that there are far too many guides these days that make it much more complicated than it needs to be.

Your spar varnish once thinned about 1/5 to 1/3 will be fairly similar to a better Danish oil type product. So decant some into a jar, thin it some with white spirit, wipe it on, wipe away the excess with a clean cloth and sit back and wonder at how lovely it makes your wood look. Three coats will probably be enough for what you want, but honestly if you don't have a particular finish in mind just one coat can be enough to make the wood look 'finished'.

Safety first, be sure to lay any cloth or paper you use to apply the varnish out flat to dry as bundled up they can start a fire. Or stuff into a jar half-filled with water if you prefer.

Looked at couple of articles on tru-oil it shows it as very time consuming to get the required result.
Will put that one on the back buner for now and go for the wipe on varnish method and see what result I get.

I don't think you'll regret that decision.

Tru Oil is overrated anyway. Ask anyone who used to use it and then moved on to something else, they'll be only too happy to talk your ear off on the subject from what I've seen :lol:

 

[marcros]

truoil is just a finish. nothing more, nothing less. It is good stuff inho, but isnt going to work miracles. The customer wont care what finish the box has on- it either works or doesnt. i use truoil in the kitchen. You put on a couple or 3 coats on per day and set it to one side until the next day. On a bandsaw box, it takes a couple of minutes. no clearup, you chuck away the piece of paper towel (carefully!) and wash your hands. With varnishes, it also takes a couple of minutes, but normally smells, dries slower and takes a bit more cleaning up. you need less coats. horses for courses. I wouldnt dare do that in the kitchen though!

i would agree to keep it simple- any one of a number of finishes will do what you need it to. start with what you have. change when you run out and/or if you dont like it for some reason.

 

[lurker]

Tung oil & Real turps are not cheap

I'd do what sunny bob suggests: thin some gloss poly varnish and see how it goes

I maybe be buying some more tung shortly so we can pool a buy?

By the way, are you aware of the fire hazard from drying oil soaked rags???

I dont really "do" shiney finishes but have lots of different ones, mainly matt, if you want to trundle up the road and sample.

 

[pops92]

Have now took the plung and working with 50/50 poly and white spirit mixed and ready to go.
Very impressed with this method on the oak box, has now had 6 wipes. Before the last coat used 600 w/dry with a dash of water.
Next step will be to put some flocking in that turned up today,looks pretty straightforward on the video,we shall see.
The redwood pine is still in progress.
Advice and help on this site is priceless.

 

[sunnybob]

Flocking is a very good finish. Couple of hints...

Mask off the rest of the box very thoroughly, the paint / glue might drip onto the box and its a pig to remove.
Be generous with the glue, dont spread it thin or you will get bald spots.
Keep the flocking tube AT LEAST a foot away from the box. closer than that and the blast of air from the tube actually blows the flocking off of the box.

I put mine into a big deep plastic storage box. When blowing the flocking onto it, be generous, and turn the box so you blast it from every side. Once youre done, put a lid over it to stop dust settling onto the glue and wait AT LEAST 24 hours for the paint /glue to dry.

Then you can lift the box out and turn it over and shake the loose stuff out. Give it another 24 hours before brushing the rest of the excess out of the box and into the storage container.

Everything left in the storage box can be re used.

 

[doubleb]

pops92.........fine job =D> I too have just made my first band saw box from a log. Because I kept half the bark on I used three coats of Barretine boiled linseed oil, first coat 25/75 spirit, second 50/50 and top coat neat. I then polished with beeswax to give it a soft matte sheen. Like you, waiting for the flock kit to arrive so that I can line the drawers.
Did not use special wood like you, just a stump (old Christmas tree base) I was going to split for firewood. Quite pleased with how things went so will now glue up some timber strips and try and make a proper job.......bb