I have a Record BS250 bandsaw and have problems with the blade tracking. I set the blade to the middle of the wheels, spin the wheels several times by hand and the blade tracking is fine. When I run the saw under power the blade moves to the front of the wheels and so the bearing setup etc is immediately wrong. To get the blade back to the correct place I have to do the setup from the start again. It’s even worse if I slacken the blade tension when I have finished for the day. The next time I re tension and turn on the blade settles where ever it wants and the adjustment process has to be started yet again. I guess I must. E doing something wrong? Or is there a problem with the saw?
Bandsaw blade tracking problem
- Thread starter Bunsen
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grumpycorn
Established Member
I've got an old Axminster equivalent of that one and the tracking has always been a bit of a pain. That being said, my blade tends to sit towards the front of the wheel and it works just fine as long as I don't over-tension it. I do have to reset bearings etc. whenever I change a blade, there isn't any repeatability.
I don't slack the tension off at the end of the day though as it's too much of a pain in the backside to reset it.
I don't slack the tension off at the end of the day though as it's too much of a pain in the backside to reset it.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
I'm a touch lost. When I hand spin the blade and it is tracking I move to the side and bump the switch on and off to make sure the blade will stay and if needed adjust it a touch. Then I turn on the bandsaw, still standing to the side, then tweak the adjustment until it is happily running where I want it. At that point I shut it off and close the doors to adjust the blade guides. If the 250 in the name is the wheel diameter I wouldn't use my procedure as those little bandsaws are a little too twitchy. It has worked on the 14", 16" and the 20" I have now.
Pete
Pete
I don't recall which video or site I got this info from as I have watched so many and tried many techniques but the setup that has worked for me on a Record BS400 is to remove the table and using a straight edge set the top wheel co planer to the bottom and lock off. I change blades and tension but have not moved my tracking since and all is well. I also de-tension the blade when not in use as it has a lever for this function.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Sachakins
The most wasted of days is one without woodwork
If tyre has a crown the correct place is blade centered over the crown. If tyre is flat, then blade overhangs front to just the depth of the tooth gullet or slightly under, so teeth don't run on the tyre.
I was asking the OP not you.
Sachakins
The most wasted of days is one without woodwork
Oops, apologies.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Does tension have a huge part to play in the wheels tracking towards the front on these small saws, like it does with flat tires?
i.e I don't spin the wheels on my machine until the blade is near fully tensioned, otherwise it will walk backwards into the thrust guide and jam itself.
i.e I don't spin the wheels on my machine until the blade is near fully tensioned, otherwise it will walk backwards into the thrust guide and jam itself.
The instructions say that the blade should be entered on the wheels so that is what I am trying to do.How do you know its function isn't just to allow the blade to be changed?
galleywood
Established Member
Bunsen
Can you send some pics of where you are setting the blade on the tyre - it might help in getting a solution.
Can you send some pics of where you are setting the blade on the tyre - it might help in getting a solution.
Distinterior
Established Member
I have a Record BS 250.....It does not have a quick release lever like my larger Axminster bandsaw does.
When I set up a blade on the Record, I count the amount of turns required to tension the blade. Once tensioned and set up correctly, after use, I just slacken the tension back the same amount of turns after I've completed my cuts.
As long as I remember to tighten the same amount of turns the next time I come to use the saw, the blade stays set up accurately.
There always has to be a slight amount of tension left in the blade to keep it in the same position.....I certainly dont slacken the tension off to the point where the blade would be loose enough to be removed/ changed.
When I set up a blade on the Record, I count the amount of turns required to tension the blade. Once tensioned and set up correctly, after use, I just slacken the tension back the same amount of turns after I've completed my cuts.
As long as I remember to tighten the same amount of turns the next time I come to use the saw, the blade stays set up accurately.
There always has to be a slight amount of tension left in the blade to keep it in the same position.....I certainly dont slacken the tension off to the point where the blade would be loose enough to be removed/ changed.
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Phill05
Established Member
Once set and running true you can leave the tension on unless you will not be using it for weeks between, I never had a problem.
MichaelAD
Established Member
Interesting comment by Phill05. I'm a 'conventional' man, but always open to new ideas. At the end of any session with my bandsaw I have always released the tension. Re-applying tension has never been a problem (touch wood...I like touching wood (UK not USA style)). 'Any road up' my bandsaw is a RPSabre 350 and it's turned out to be one of my better buys...
Hi Jake, I use the Snodgrass video on YouTube for setting up info on my bandsaw. His advice is to position the gully of the teeth central on the tyres, not the centre of the blade, assuming the tyre is not flat but convex. Good luck with your set up. Cheers.
Phill05
Established Member
Back again now, a little follow up to what I posted before, this is what I have experienced & found in the past years of using bandsaws I have had from the large resaws 38" wheels ( these blades were sent away for conditioning and sharpening ) down to what I have now 30cm, over the years I have made up my own blades used a blade welder attached to the frame, that type of butt weld would give up if left for prolonged periods on tension, I reverted to the old way of scarf joint ground on the slant and overlapped then silver soldered this type of joint held brilliantly and I can leave tension on for a lot longer without any problems, if left for a very long time it can cause a flat spot on the rubber for a while but it does soon revert back to shape.
Again setting up try for the gullet of the teeth on the crown of the wheel and you will find it soon finds the sweet spot to run best, set the guide bearings or blocks ever so slightly off and back of the blade and you should find all is well.
In the 70's I was on CB radio with the handle "Bandsaw" I wonder why.
Again setting up try for the gullet of the teeth on the crown of the wheel and you will find it soon finds the sweet spot to run best, set the guide bearings or blocks ever so slightly off and back of the blade and you should find all is well.
In the 70's I was on CB radio with the handle "Bandsaw" I wonder why.
Because unless you use another blade the same then you need to re-adjust the tension, it is a good point because if you took of a 3/4 blade and put on say a 3/8 and then just reapplied the same tension it would be way over the top. Also if you leave it fully tensioned could it not be like your trailer that could also be left for a period between use a get flat spots on the tyres. So I just like to let her be stress free between use and let everything relax and hopefully she is ready for the next cutting session.
pgrbff
Established Member
I imagine you won't be able to run most modern saws with the doors open unless you modify them.
pgrbff
Established Member
I have cambered tyres and I try andget the gullet in the centre.
