Bandsaw bearings

[MikeJhn]

@Nail Have a look on Axminster tools site they have a few after market replacement bandsaw guides, some even with the correct orientation for a bearing: Bandsaw Accessories - Sawing - Machinery Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools

 

[Nail]

@Nail Have a look on Axminster tools site they have a few after market replacement bandsaw guides, some even with the correct orientation for a bearing: Bandsaw Accessories - Sawing - Machinery Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools

Yeah, I’ve seen them. I’m just too tight to buy them.

 

[Niall Church]

I really fancy a couple of support legs, I've been changing the front springs on my car today and all the kneeling and getting up and down (I don't have fancy ramps, just a jack), plays havoc with my knees.

Is that a joke,I only ask as it's very hard to see,if it is or not,tell me when to laugh

 

[Niall Church]

Can we see if the guide mounting shaft itself, can be adjusted?
Is there a solid steel guidepost, with bracket to house it,
I guess it might be possible... somehow.

Tom

Ok,I looesend the m8 nut on column as someone said it was a cam bolt,which would give 5mm clearance,but I got nothing from it!

 

[Niall Church]

Here's 2 more photos of bearings and housing,one from side and one from rear, showing m8 bolt for holding housing of bearings!
I wonder is there a way to attach the housing looking from rear,to he left of the m8 bolt?

 

[Nail]

Remind us what you’re trying to achieve?

 

[Niall Church]

As I explained in opening post,the upper bearings are not working properly,and there's no cleRanxe for upper thrust bearing, as it's hitting the lower side bearing and the housing block shaft!

 

[Ttrees]

Now things are making more sense.
Guessing you've got your blade tracking where it should be now.
No point in doing this otherwise.


Inspector could be onto something here, should your aluminium extrusion guidepost
not be adjustable.
It looks in line to me with the column being parallel with guidepost.
Equally so, there could be adjustment of the wheel protrusion/depth, guessing upper wheel,
which might be causing that guide mounting shaft fouling issue...
if you still are experiencing this.

standing far enough away from the machine might be
the best way to see if the guidepost is in line with the column.
On my saw, the guidepost was leaning away from the blade/plumb,
and if it were the opposite case, then that could be an issue.

A screengrab of your machine shows the setup of the guides to be similar.

Were still unsure if you are tracking the blade correctly,
if those aren't old pictures, where your blade was too far off the crown of the upper tire,
and you are infact tracking your blade where it should be,
and can note adjustment of the bottom wheel with top wheel tracking,
i.e the bottom wheel where it should be, allowing tracking to be catered for by upper wheel only,
and not simply the case of having to track the blades on the upper wheel like that
in order for it to run without vibrations or whatever,
(which could be down to a blade weld)...

Then the next thing to look for would be wheel depth in chassis.
You might be able to get away with a level or whatever instead for that wee saw.

Machine leveled in both axis

Wheels plummed in both axis

Seems there's some variance to those saws, as the thrust guide roller is a bit further away from the blade guard, than in the video.

Just thought best to mention those things should be done before doing anything too radical.

Tom

 

[Niall Church]

I have no idea what you're talking about,however,see that screen grab you put up,and the steel shaftforvthe housing,well that's too near my upper thrust bearing and I can't rectify it!

 

[Niall Church]

Oh,and the left side besring looking head on has no thread left to adjust it,so whole housing has to move to the left looking head on!!

 

[Nail]

The last picture you put up - can you do a picture from the other side.

 

[Ttrees]

First rule of doing checking before adjustment or ever altercations is being sure of what your dealing with.
With blade tracking where it should be as mentioned, without issues, and no guides contacting blade, set them back somewhat to inspect if the guidepost is plumb.
Does the guidepost travel parallel with the blade and guides not make contact when raised/lowered?

If not, then it might be possible to adjust your upper wheel to suit the guidepost,
(provided it's plumb)
This could allow for the adjustment of the guides you wish.
You can see both options for wheel depth in chassis adjustment, and left/right carriage adjustment on my machine, which both affect guide position.

Note of moving the upper wheel, best check alignment as mentioned,
but best doing that anyways.

Tom

 

[Niall Church]

The last picture you put up - can you do a picture from the other side.

Here you go!

 

[Nail]

So why can’t you move the whole housing forward on the steel bolt?

 

[Niall Church]

If i move it forward the thrust bearing will need to be moved back,and it will hit the lower side bearing and the steel shaft next to the thrust bearing!

 

[Nail]

Just move the thrust bearing behind the side bearing

 

[Ttrees]

Most folks seem to be most unwilling to take the table off to check wheel alignment or even for co-planar.
Could post a few Grizzly snapshots of such if it helps matters,
as the rig used for General International's method to align bandwheels (with table still assembled)
looks a tad complicated to replicate.

 

[Niall Church]

Just move the thrust bearing behind the side bearing

Have tried that but it then hits the steel shaft beside it!

 

[Nail]

Have tried that but it then hits the steel shaft beside it!

So move the housing forward on the steel shaft.

 

[Niall Church]

So move the housing forward on the steel shaft.

You can only move it forward so much,given the blade is in the correct place! The thrust bearing will still.have to moved back and still hit the lower side bearing,and/or the steel shaft!