Bandsaw bearings

[Ttrees]

Why can't you adjust the entire guide assembly to the right again, please explain?
I can't see how you couldn't adjust this.

Agreed with sideways regarding tracking if those tires are crowned, which is very much highly likely.
That camber will determine the setup regarding getting your table parallel with blade
i.e
The fence to match/line up with mitre slot in table, for the preferred setup rather than mucking about with drift adjustment with the fence, should you get used to adjusting the table if you wish to make crosscuts with mitre fence.

On the small Inca and Kity saws they have flat tires, aswell as the much larger Italian machines,
but near every other saw comes with a crowned "rubber like compound" tires.

The way your blade is tracking now, will make it necessary to skew the table very much to the right, or fence if you prefer.

IMO large adjustments like this is asking for trouble with the wheel bore, which isn't easily repaired.
That is under the assumption that the tires are indeed crowned.

You likely can disregard the sentence below, as only mentioning for clarity sake, but...
If they were flat tires, then it's a different matter, i.e wide blades with teeth off the rubber,
or for narrower blades, keeping an eye on wear and adjusting accordingly.

Last but not least, if looking for work, you could check bore accuracy and/or alignment of the wheels with the table off, and using a beam.

And hope to the bandsaw gods, you don't find a discrepancy like below
(bore wear)

And instead have a single line, in which you can use to align the lower wheel to,
something like below is what you would like to see.

These ain't honest pictures of whats really happening below, as I haven't got my upper wheel bore sorted yet, but it illustrates what you would see, if the first test proved the bore was good.

Good luck
Tom

 

[Niall Church]

Why can't you adjust the entire guide assembly to the right again, please explain?
I can't see how you couldn't adjust this.

Agreed with sideways regarding tracking if those tires are crowned, which is very much highly likely.
That camber will determine the setup regarding getting your table parallel with blade
i.e
The fence to match/line up with mitre slot in table, for the preferred setup rather than mucking about with drift adjustment with the fence, should you get used to adjusting the table if you wish to make crosscuts with mitre fence.

On the small Inca and Kity saws they have flat tires, aswell as the much larger Italian machines,
but near every other saw comes with a crowned "rubber like compound" tires.

The way your blade is tracking now, will make it necessary to skew the table very much to the right, or fence if you prefer.

IMO large adjustments like this is asking for trouble with the wheel bore, which isn't easily repaired.
That is under the assumption that the tires are indeed crowned.

You likely can disregard the sentence below, as only mentioning for clarity sake, but...
If they were flat tires, then it's a different matter, i.e wide blades with teeth off the rubber,
or for narrower blades, keeping an eye on wear and adjusting accordingly.

Last but not least, if looking for work, you could check bore accuracy and/or alignment of the wheels with the table off, and using a beam.
View attachment 157882View attachment 157883
And hope to the bandsaw gods, you don't find a discrepancy like below
(bore wear)
View attachment 157881
And instead have a single line, in which you can use to align the lower wheel to,
something like below is what you would like to see.

These ain't honest pictures of whats really happening below, as I haven't got my upper wheel bore sorted yet, but it illustrates what you would see, if the first test proved the bore was good.
View attachment 157888
View attachment 157887

Good luck
Tom

It can't go to the right because the thrust bearing will then miss the blade,alsothe theust bearing it touching the steel cylinder that holds the housing of all upper bearings,the thrust bearing seems to be too big!

 

[Ttrees]

Can we see if the guide mounting shaft itself, can be adjusted?
Is there a solid steel guidepost, with bracket to house it,
I guess it might be possible... somehow.

Tom

 

[Niall Church]

Can we see if the guide mounting shaft itself, can be adjusted?
Is there a solid steel guidepost, with bracket to house it,
I guess it might be possible... somehow.

Tom

Guidmounting shaft??

 

[Niall Church]

Guidmounting shaft??

The housing for thrust and side guide bearings are a metal block,and a steel shaft goes thru it to allow it to move back and forth by a grub screw! The housing is back as far as can go,the thrust bearing is touching the steel.shaft!

 

[Nail]

Changed my mind!

 

[Niall Church]

Wow, I mean wow! A valued member offers constructive advice and you respond in this way? I like the saying, manners maketh man. Or as I used to buy and give to people who responded in such a way in my meetings the following book which besides sending a message is also something I believe everyone should have read who want to be successful in business.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Win-Friends-Influence-People/dp/0091906814

I don't mean to be terse,so just stay on the toilet seat and calm down, I'm just poor boy from a poor family,yadda,yadda yadda! It's just that it's a newish machine,and want it to work well,and I know rhe bearings are important for it to work!

 

[Ttrees]

Forgetting about the guide assembly for the moment, and remove it if necessary...
what adjustment is available on the guide mounting shaft. (part A)
I guess it can be adjusted further back as not to foul against the thrust roller.
If in bother, then post a piccy of that,
As Nial suggested with "paint" everything is maxed out.

 

[Niall Church]

Forgetting about the guide assembly for the moment, and remove it if necessary...
what adjustment is available on the guide mounting shaft. (part A)
I guess it can be adjusted further back as not to foul against the thrust roller.
If in bother, then post a piccy of that,
As Nial suggested with "paint" everything is maxed out.

You mean the thrust bearing brass shaft,there is a grub screw to move it back and forth!

 

[Spectric]

Do as your manual tells you.

And maybe watch Mr Snodgrasses video on bandsaw setup which resolved all my issues on the BS400.

I can see your issue with the blade missing the rear bearing, on the BS400 the whole top bearing assembly is mounted on a single shaft and the blade only just sits on the very edge, your picture is just like my BS400.

.

 

[bourbon]

I don't mean to be terse,so just stay on the toilet seat and calm down, I'm just poor boy from a poor family,yadda,yadda yadda! It's just that it's a newish machine,and want it to work well,and I know rhe bearings are important for it to work!

yes, and experienced people are trying to help you. Your attitude does not help you in any way.

 

[Ttrees]

You mean the thrust bearing brass shaft,there is a grub screw to move it back and forth!

What I'm saying is to remove the whole guide assembly,
By that, I mean the zinc like casting, which is mounted onto the guide post via the guide mounting shaft,
(myself, like most folks here won't confuse matters for others concerning incorrect terminology)
and perhaps show us why you cannot simply do the same with that, as with the brass thrust guide shaft.

I wouldn't be surprised if it were stuck being a steel component, especially so if the female part maybe also steel?
A pictures worth a thousand words here, as there might be various orientations you can choose this bracket to mount onto the guidepost.
Could be something as simple as that, i.e a Friday evening or Monday morn job at the factory.

Note zinc like castings should be handled with care, no hitting nor cinching down too tightly.
incase you were thinking of getting some leverage to loosen it enough to move it further back.
You certainly don't want to put that part under pressure!

Tom

 

[Nail]

Note zinc like castings should be handled with care, no hitting nor cinching down too tightly.
incase you were thinking of getting some leverage to loosen it enough to move it further back.
You certainly don't want to put that part under pressure!

Tom

That’s why my basa 1 has been sat without bearings for years. I’m planning to sort it at some point…..

 

[Inspector]

When you raise the guide post is the blade sitting in the same place over the bearing at the top of the travel as it is when down at table level? Reason for asking is that it is possible that the post mount at the top needs to be adjusted to put the thrust bearing in the correct location. It may not be adjustable but it's worth a look.

Pete

 

[no idea]

The blade is sitting too far to the front. Move it back so that the thrust guide can sit behind the side guides.

 

[Niall Church]

What I'm saying is to remove the whole guide assembly,
By that, I mean the zinc like casting, which is mounted onto the guide post via the guide mounting shaft,
(myself, like most folks here won't confuse matters for others concerning incorrect terminology)
and perhaps show us why you cannot simply do the same with that, as with the brass thrust guide shaft.

I wouldn't be surprised if it were stuck being a steel component, especially so if the female part maybe also steel?
A pictures worth a thousand words here, as there might be various orientations you can choose this bracket to mount onto the guidepost.
Could be something as simple as that, i.e a Friday evening or Monday morn job at the factory.

Note zinc like castings should be handled with care, no hitting nor cinching down too tightly.
incase you were thinking of getting some leverage to loosen it enough to move it further back.
You certainly don't want to put that part under pressure!

Tom

Ok,why do you want me to remove the whole assembly?

 

[MikeJhn]

Have a look at these: Axminster Workshop HBS350N Bandsaw Blade Guide Set at the very least they are bearings not rubbing blocks and they are oriented the correct way.

This thread may help: New bandsaw guides from Axminster

 

[pgrbff]

Having a similar setup with the basa 1 I agree with many others here. The blade needs to go further back. There is lots of conflicting advice on where to place the blade on the wheel. I now try to get the gullet centred on the wheel but it will depend on the width of the blade and the tension/wheel alignment. You need to try different positions until the saw works well.

 

[Niall Church]

When you raise the guide post is the blade sitting in the same place over the bearing at the top of the travel as it is when down at table level? Reason for asking is that it is possible that the post mount at the top needs to be adjusted to put the thrust bearing in the correct location. It may not be adjustable but it's worth a look.

Pete

What does that look like?

 

[Inspector]

What does that look like?

The guide post should travel up and down parallel to the blade when you adjust the height for different thicknesses of wood. Otherwise you would have to make adjustment to the guides every time you raised or lowered the guide. If it is out front to back the thrust bearing will move closer or further to the blade. If the post is out from side to side then the spot on the thrust bearing the blade touches moves side to side requiring those guides to be adjusted. My bandsaw has a pivoting block that can be adjusted much like the tension and tracking mechanism for the upper wheel. On another bandsaw I had bolts had to be loosened to allow the guide post block to be adjusted and then retightened. Loosen just enough and bump into alignment, then snug the bolts again. Some inexpensive bandsaws don't allow for adjustment and the only option if available would be to move the upper wheel assembly until the blade is parallel to the guide post. Make sense?

Pete