Bandsaw BAS318

[Lindeman]

Hello! Recently bought the Metabo BAS318 Bandsaw after studiyng a few reviews.
Problem: cannot make curves, the bandsaw starts to slow down and finally stops. I am using a 13 mm blade, maybe its wrong blade dimension? Had watched videos on YT about setting it up and done it exact so, but still no curves no matter how thin plywood is. Sooo disappointed...

 

[Ttrees]

Is the belt tight?

 

[Cordy]

I own the Metabo BAS318
For curves I use 6 mm 4 tpi
Blades from Axminster or Tuff blades are good

Cheap blades are not suitable for curves and will give poor results imho
Are you using the blade supplied with the machine ?

 

[Essex Barn Workshop]

Are you using the blade supplied with the machine ?

Exactly what I was going to ask, I swapped out my bandsaw blade after a few days of disappointment and the difference with a good blade is huge. Different tool.

 

[Chippymint]

This machine has a 900w input rating meaning the output rating would reduce to 650/750 watt. That said it should handle reasonable stock size. An half inch blade 3tpi skip tooth blade is designed to cut a 2.5inch dia circle. A 1/4 inch 6tpi skip tooth is designed to cut a 1 inch diameter circle.

Your bandsaw is a budget spec standard and this needs to be kept in mind. It is not a power house but with correct set up and being prepared to take your time when cutting, it still should do a good job but be realistic.

Possible problems in regards to your problem could be: overtensioned or undertensioned drive belt, binding blade guides, undertensioned blade, tyre(s) worn, faulty drive motor, poor blade quality, blade type and size unsuitable for task.

I think your machine has two speed settings. Make sure it's on the correct one for wood cutting, normally the high setting. Given your machine, I would recommend that you make sure that you use very good quality sharp blades as it will help the machines shortcomings.

When you have checked everything is correct and you have the correct blades, do some testing. Get a peice of hardwood about 3/4inch deep and cut it straight with some pressure. If it handles this well try some curviture work using a 3/8 4tpi skip tooth blade with some thin softwood stock. I often slacked-off the bottom and top guides to allow the blade to have some side to side movement and you can then rule-out any binding of the guides, just don't force the cut; let the blade do it's job.

If there are machine issues consult the manufacturer as they may have a fix.

Good luck

 

[MARK.B.]

Suspect you are trying to force the wide blade to cut tight curves but i could also be wrong and that is why you are stalling the blade, even a big powerful machine won't cut tight curves with a wide blade.

 

[Lindeman]

Thank you all for your helpful explanation and advice. I have just bought a "thin gauge carbon flexback bandsaw" blade, 1/4" .020 x 6 Skip Raker. Made in UK. Hopefully this would do a better job in making curves. Will come back later with the result!

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Thank you all for your helpful explanation and advice. I have just bought a "thin gauge carbon flexback bandsaw" blade, 1/4" .020 x 6 Skip Raker. Made in UK. Hopefully this would do a better job in making curves. Will come back later with the result!

A ¼” blade is not that small but certainly better than a ½”, also 6 TPI is only suitable for quite thin stock, probably up to about 12mm, over that it will certainly cut but more slowly than a blade with a lower TPI count

The other thing you can do is to sharpen the ½” blade it is really a quick simple job to just touch the top back face of every tooth. This will improve even new blades.


Here is a video showing the process, it takes under 3 seconds per tooth and with a new blade takes the cut time from 26 seconds to under 7 seconds once the new blade has been sharpened. The process is simple and one that takes almost no learning time

 

[Lindeman]

The new blade worked just fine! Make nice curves, again, thank for good advice!

 

[Spectric]

Problem: cannot make curves, the bandsaw starts to slow down

Some may say you were lucky, mine for one could cut curves but forget a straight one!

 

[Orraloon]

A ¼” blade is not that small but certainly better than a ½”, also 6 TPI is only suitable for quite thin stock, probably up to about 12mm, over that it will certainly cut but more slowly than a blade with a lower TPI count

The other thing you can do is to sharpen the ½” blade it is really a quick simple job to just touch the top back face of every tooth. This will improve even new blades.


Here is a video showing the process, it takes under 3 seconds per tooth and with a new blade takes the cut time from 26 seconds to under 7 seconds once the new blade has been sharpened. The process is simple and one that takes almost no learning time

I have been using that sharpening method for a few years now since I saw that video. It really works as good as the guy claims in the clip. Good for 3 and 4 tpi blades but I would not like to do small teeth that way. There are other ways using a dremel in a jig so if I ever get a dremel I may try that too.
Regards
John

 

[gregmcateer]

That sharpening video is amazing! I always thought you had to faff about with different angles etc.
Gonna give that a go. Thanks for sharing

 

[sometimewoodworker]

That sharpening video is amazing! I always thought you had to faff about with different angles etc.
Gonna give that a go. Thanks for sharing

Just be careful to only touch the tooth to the grinding wheel lightly and at the correct angle. It’s easy enough to check the angle with the grinder switched off. The time of touch is also easily checked as you can see the grinding marks.

Remember you can always take a second try if you don’t grind long enough. But you can’t put steel back if you take off too much.

Is it the best way to sharpen? Almost certainly no. A dedicated motorised sharpening machine is.
Does it work well enough? Absolutely, you just need a little skill that’s easy to gain.
At a minimum It’s a great way to extend the life of blades that would otherwise get binned

 

[Richard_C]

Some may say you were lucky, mine for one could cut curves but forget a straight one!

I've been trying to learn as much as I can about bandsaws and blades before mine gets delivered.

Whether or not you buy Axminster, this information seems excellent and makes sense.

https://knowledge.axminstertools.com/axcaliber-bandsaw-blades/
This quote might help:

And, don’t forget. A blade used for a batch of cutting bowl blanks will not be much use for straight cutting. Cutting curves will disturb the set of the teeth on the blade, consequently making it impossible to cut in a straight line. So we advise you to keep your bowl blank cutting blades separate from other blades.

I guess the same applies to any curve cutting, not just bowl blanks, unless its just occasional.

 

[Spectric]

It has become the starting point for bandsaws, throw away all the blades it comes with and buy decent blades, it will make all the difference and allow your machine to perform as you want. Tuffsaws are a popular supplier and there M42 blades are great and last, good on man made boards and they do a thinner width blade that allows you to maintain blade tension better.

 

[Nick.]

It has become the starting point for bandsaws, throw away all the blades it comes with and buy decent blades

I agree on almost all far east imports - but we only supply UK blades from Starrett - decent quality and great value. No Far East blades blades included..
Just saying so that no-one reads this and lobs away a wedge of blades that work well after buying a Laguna.
Cheers, Nick.