Band saw levelling

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Roboboyo

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Hi guys,

So, just a quick question.

I’m in the process of building a mitre station
Was just wondering if anyone has done the same with a bandsaw?

What I mean is lowering the bandsaw plate so it’s level/flush with the workbench

Any advice/ recommendations
 
Hi guys,

So, just a quick question.

I’m in the process of building a mitre station
Was just wondering if anyone has done the same with a bandsaw?

What I mean is lowering the bandsaw plate so it’s level/flush with the workbench

Any advice/ recommendations
I always think the height of a bandsaw table at 42" is ideal (if I've remembered it correctly I'll check tomorrow).
At table height (30" ish) you'd want to sit down to operate it.
 
Best way I've found, could use tape instead of magnets if using string,
Search for some builders line with pins, in the poundshop or whatever, its woven rather than twisted, much better than the latter which unravels/wide spots.
Fishing line is better, but this line makes things easier.
This is for working on the machine though, so perhaps a bit OTT.


SAM_4964.JPG


SAM_4959.JPG

Backlighting is needed if honest about this.
SAM_4960.JPG
 
Best way I've found, could use tape instead of magnets if using string,
Search for some builders line with pins, in the poundshop or whatever, its woven rather than twisted, much better than the latter which unravels/wide spots.
Fishing line is better, but this line makes things easier.
This is for working on the machine though, so perhaps a bit OTT.


View attachment 149173

View attachment 149174
Backlighting is needed if honest about this.
View attachment 149175
What's all that about?
Are you fishing for something? Some sort of game in between woodwork activities?
 
What's all that about?
Are you fishing for something? Some sort of game in between woodwork activities?
It's for a bandsaw which won't play nice.
I try and fix things if I can, seen plenty of bandsaws of all types which have questionable design elements, and damage caused by such neglect.
 
It's for a bandsaw which won't play nice.
I try and fix things if I can, seen plenty of bandsaws of all types which have questionable design elements, and damage caused by such neglect.
Right Ted! (no wiser :unsure: )
 
What do you wish to see, I have quite a collection of bandsaw stuff.
Though I read you've said earlier you ain't got the time for 5 min videos,
Bit difficult to convey everything in 5 mins really.
It could involve engineering bodgery, some simple alignment stuff
or damaged wheel bores....
which is a bit more alarming for someone with say just a grinder, welder and some files.
Bottom line being it may not be so easy to simply level a bandsaw well,
or it might be, some folks got all the luck.
 
my bandsaw is slightly higher than the workbench, I don't like feeling like I'm miles away from it, feels safer to me that way.
 
Hi guys,

So, just a quick question.

I’m in the process of building a mitre station
Was just wondering if anyone has done the same with a bandsaw?

What I mean is lowering the bandsaw plate so it’s level/flush with the workbench

Any advice/ recommendations
It doesn't make sense to me. When l'm using my bandsaw I like to have access to 3 sides of the table for pushing, pulling or guiding the workpiece through. I suppose if you only want to cut mitres it might work. However a bandsaw is not the best machine for cutting accurate mitres and it would be severely restricted for other work
Brian
 
....
Bottom line being it may not be so easy to simply level a bandsaw well,
or it might be, some folks got all the luck.
I've never "levelled" mine and I've been using it for 40 years or more.
Not sure why anybody would ever need to unless they are trying to work on the side of a hill or something. Or Craggy island? :unsure:
 
Think you’re all missing the op’s point..it read to me like he wanted to install one in a ”run” of workbench with both it and a mitre saw inset with their cutting surfaces for sitting the wood on at the same level as the worktop. I never bothered to reply as that could only apply to one of the smaller Aldi/Lidl types as anything like my Startrite is far too tall without digging a pit for it sit in! It also strikes me as really limiting the uses of a bandsaw which would still need to be demountable from its installed location for blade changes. With a smaller one I suppose it would be possible if you wanted to align it purely for ripping and leave it set up dedicated to that task but you’ll lose the flexibility of a really long rip you can do without massive infeed and outfeed space on your proposed workstation.
 
Having thought a bit more..if you have the room for it I suppose it would be possible to build something like a mitre station cart around a small bandsaw..that is to add “wings” to one to provide additional support but blade changes will still complicate things.
 
It would be possible to mount a small bandsaw on castors.

It could simply pulled out of position for blade change.

It would also be helpful if it could be located and locked in position when pushed back to ensure alignment with the worktop was maintained.
 
I've never "levelled" mine and I've been using it for 40 years or more.
Not sure why anybody would ever need to unless they are trying to work on the side of a hill or something. Or Craggy island? :unsure:
Yours has small sheet metal wheels, and was likely fabricated by knowledgeable and observant folk.
Most machines in that class today, can seemingly be quite a bit trickier to level,
which is apparent if watching someone feeding something long or heavy enough,
is usually a good way of spotting, (providing they don't edit this out, as per usual with a small machine cutting)
and have cast iron wheels which ain't so easy to repair, (should the boss of the wheel be substantial enough to bore out and insert sleeve)

Moreover, we haven't an idea of the size of the saw, which compounds alignment errors the larger the machine gets,
so figured it was worth mentioning how to use a plumbob sensibly,
for giving the machine a decent inspection, on a thread with such a title...

Should it actually be a floor standing model, and perhaps the floor being equally as bad, it might get quite tippy, even with wedges underneath.
Might be a PITA to move into a certain location if one has no choice about where it can go, so with all that, in worst case scenario, good to know where one stands.

Even with one finger, one can rock most machines about easily pressing somewhere on the upper cabinet.
SAM_5895.JPG
 
Clearly not many of you have read the initial post in this thread and are just replying based on this threads title…
This is the relevant part of his thread.. “What I mean is lowering the bandsaw plate so it’s level/flush with the workbench”
 
Yours has small sheet metal wheels, and was likely fabricated by knowledgeable and observant folk.
Most machines in that class today, can seemingly be quite a bit trickier to level,
which is apparent if watching someone feeding something long or heavy enough,
is usually a good way of spotting, (providing they don't edit this out, as per usual with a small machine cutting)
and have cast iron wheels which ain't so easy to repair, (should the boss of the wheel be substantial enough to bore out and insert sleeve)

Moreover, we haven't an idea of the size of the saw, which compounds alignment errors the larger the machine gets,
so figured it was worth mentioning how to use a plumbob sensibly,
for giving the machine a decent inspection, on a thread with such a title...

Should it actually be a floor standing model, and perhaps the floor being equally as bad, it might get quite tippy, even with wedges underneath.
Might be a PITA to move into a certain location if one has no choice about where it can go, so with all that, in worst case scenario, good to know where one stands.

Even with one finger, one can rock most machines about easily pressing somewhere on the upper cabinet.
View attachment 149247
Is that a bandsaw in your pic?
Design problem:
That base is inherently unstable but the remedy is simple. It needs a foot at each corner, anything; just a bolt head etc. Then it will rest solidly on at least three, if not four of them.
Better still have 3 feet; one at each front corner and just one on the middle of the rear edge.
Many 4 footed things have enough flex in them to stand firmly anyway.
I see why I've never had to level a bandsaw!
 
Hi guys,

So, just a quick question.

I’m in the process of building a mitre station
Was just wondering if anyone has done the same with a bandsaw?

What I mean is lowering the bandsaw plate so it’s level/flush with the workbench

Any advice/ recommendations
Give it a go and see if it works for you. Nothing to loose
 
Is that a bandsaw in your pic?
Design problem:
That base is inherently unstable but the remedy is simple. It needs a foot at each corner, anything; just a bolt head etc. Then it will rest solidly on at least three, if not four of them.
Better still have 3 feet; one at each front corner and just one on the middle of the rear edge.
Many 4 footed things have enough flex in them to stand firmly anyway.
I see why I've never had to level a bandsaw!
Come to think - there seem to be bolt holes in the corners of the base. Someone has stolen the feet! No wonder it won't sit still.
 
Last edited:
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