Bambu lab buying advice

[Quercus]

Hi,

I’m about to take my first plunge into the world of 3D printing and would appreciate a little advice before I proceed.

I’m a complete novice with no experience of 3D printing or any type of CNC. I’ve experimented with using CAD but only very briefly with a free trial, so again no experience.

After reading various threads and reviews about different brands and models, a recent thread on here has swayed me to think that Bambu Lab might suit someone like me due to auto calibration, community support, Bambu’s own software(which I understand I would/could use alongside a 3rd party CAD programme), quality and also price.

Particular mention was made of the A1 and A1 mini being excellent for the beginner. Both of these models in my mind are very reasonably priced and budget would allow me to go to the P1S. My thoughts are that this would future proof me a little as I get more into 3D printing and would expand my options a little, rather than upgrading a little way down the line. So my question is this…. Am I overlooking anything here? Does the P1S require more knowledge and tinkering and is aimed at the more experienced person or is it as beginner friendly as the A1 but with better features?

I’d be grateful to here about anyones experience of these machines or advice about anything I might have overlooked.

Many thanks,
Dave

 

[fleyh]

My thoughts are that this would future proof me a little

Home 3D printing technology is in a state similar to PCs/CPUs in the 1990s. Every three to six months, something faster and better is released. If you need specific P1S features right now and expect to use them a lot, then go for it. But if you are just starting the 3D printing journey and do not have loads of projects that require a P1S-size bed or heated chamber, then I would go for the A1 mini. It is a ridiculously good price for what it is.

I have seen numerous comments on Reddit and youtube mentioning that people who have both P1 and A1 series tend to use A1 more, especially A1 mini
Both P1 and A1 are user-friendly, but (based on anecdotal evidence) the A1 series is more so. The A1 is also easier to maintain than the P1, as far as I understood. I can easily believe that, taking into account that Bambu designed the A1 based on their X1 and P1 experience.

Also, bear in mind, the printer bed size is the limit of the part that can be done in one go, but it is not a limit of the end result. Most larger parts can be cut into pieces in the slicer software (with dowel/dovetail/etc. joints automatically created) and assembled/glued together later.

 

[paulrbarnard]

P1S will give you the ability to print a lot more filament types. It is a more versatile printer. That said the print quality of all the Bambu printers is excellent.
My daughter has a P1S and had printed her first benchy within 10 minutes of opening the box. She has printed hundreds of items and had only a single failed print to date.

 

[fezman]

+1 for Bambu Dave. I have the x1c, and like Paul outlines, the failure rate is minimal. I did have to use their support to replace a faulty part, and they were superb.
I use Fusion 360 for the cad element. There is a free version for non-commercial use.

 

[Quercus]

Thanks for the replies. It’s good to hear the positive comments about Bambu generally as a brand. Interesting to know that the A1 was designed based on their experiences of the P1 and X1.

I think in reality the P1 is more than I will need for now. My thoughts were the extra filament options would be a benefit but really for what I will be doing I will probably be using PETG and TPU mostly(from research), both of which the A1 are capable of. The enclosure was another plus as I will be using it indoors and I was thinking about fumes, but that may not be such a concern with the filaments the A1 uses.

My planned use to start with will be for workshop accessories such as tool guides, jigs, dust extraction fittings etc. Strength, durability and flexible enough to not be brittle, hence my thinking about mostly using PETG and TPU. Have I got the right idea?

I had thought that the ability to use Nylon and ABS would be a benefit but I’m rethinking that. Is there much call for the use of Nylon and ABS in the type of things I have mentioned? They sound like tricky plastics to use to be honest.

On the plus side, if I go for the A1 then that will save a few pennies to go towards a laser cutter! That’ll be my next thread

 

[Mike Fletcher]

I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3 Pro. Print size is 150mm in all directions. It can print PLA, ABS and PETG. I think the best attributes are the heated bed, which makes ABS printing more successful. The slicer program is good, you can add all sorts of options including variable infill setting, auto support function, brim, and lots more. I use two CAD programs. Tinkercad for the simple stuff and FreeCad for the more complex. Both are free and not that difficult to work with.

 

[Si465]

I bought an A1 mini in June, so far have done about 20 prints (~0.5kg filament) all trouble free. Overall very pleased especially considering the price.
It's not been flawless, the software has had some random bugs (nothing serious) that have fixed themselves so far. Their facebook group suggests others are experiencing various issues, and support doesn't always appear that helpful, but all very annecdotal.
My use has mostly been dust fittings, blast gates etc but also a few toys thrown in.

I've only used their PLA basic so far, it seems pretty strong, and if you need more strength you can increase wall thicknesses or infill density. Other filament types potentially need drying before use which sounds like a PITA to me.
I didnt have budget for a P or X machine, but I could have stretched to the A1. I didn't in the end as the 180mm cube envelope is pretty big already, parts can be split as said above, the machine is much smaller and fits in a cupboard easily, and once I've printed all the widgets I can think of I imagine it might largely sit unused.
I didn't get the AMS option, not needed for my use and takes up more space & more £.

Printing from Bambu's MakerWorld is pretty easy, you download the models and don't need to do too much. Most of my prints I have designed in OnShape (free online CAD) and sliced myself, I had prior CAD experience so found it easy to pick up but if you're coming in green it might take a while. Being able to design your own parts is what makes it 'fun' for me!

 

[AES]

I know nothing about this stuff, but subscribe to a channel called Clough 42. He's primarily primarily a metal worker (lathe, surface grinder, etc) but also does a lot with 3D printers, and has an excellent channel, posting weekly.. Thoroughly recommended. Link:

https://www.youtube.com/@Clough42

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

What a timely thread. I have an ancient Robox (2014)which only comes with the CURA slicer which has zero adjustability. Just this last week or so I've been considering upgrading to the much recommended Bambu, the P1S or X1C. I can see the AMS module would be very useful.
I've been using ABS for the last few years - Formuntura Titan-X - without issues once I had it sticking to the bed properly.
I use Designspark Mechanical to design virtually everything I print and that I find is three-quarters of the fun. I tried Fusion 360 but couldn't fathom how to use it although I can see it's extremely versatile.
Have fun
Martin
PS. Bambu have a sale at the moment. I think it was Paul who mentioned this in a different thread.

 

[Si465]

I can see the AMS module would be very useful.

Can I ask what you'd use it for? I mostly see it being used for cosmetic prints (toys, face masks etc) and it seems to waste a lot of time/plastic switching colours!
I think it can enable you to use different filaments for support structures which remove easily - that could be useful but better if you can design the support out altogether.

 

[supertom44]

Can I ask what you'd use it for? I mostly see it being used for cosmetic prints (toys, face masks etc) and it seems to waste a lot of time/plastic switching colours!
I think it can enable you to use different filaments for support structures which remove easily - that could be useful but better if you can design the support out altogether.

I use the AMS primarily for being able to swap between different filament types based on my requirements.
At the moment I have some PETG, PLA and PLA-CF loaded in there and the fact that I can change to the best filament for my need by changing a drop down is brilliant. But then again I am lazy so I'll look for any thing that makes life easier.

You can print supports in a different filament to make removal easier, not something I've tried.

Done a few multicolour prints and they are cool, useful for jigs with markings etc, but not my main use of the AMS.

 

[fleyh]

I had thought that the ability to use Nylon and ABS would be a benefit but I’m rethinking that. Is there much call for the use of Nylon and ABS in the type of things I have mentioned? They sound like tricky plastics to use to be honest.

Unless you have a very specific use case - neither Nylon nor ABS are necessary for the workshop purposes you listed.
PLA, PETG and their sub-variants are plenty strong. You just need to learn/understand what material/settings is more suitable for which application.
The model design and print settings may influence the print result durability much more than the source filament.

If you really - really want to print ABS and have a lot of spare time to tinker - it would appear that it may be possible with certain ABS variants on an open printer. Here is a discussion where someone was trying to print ABS on A1 mini: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/has-anyone-printed-in-abs/74751/8

 

[Quercus]

I use the AMS primarily for being able to swap between different filament types based on my requirements.
At the moment I have some PETG, PLA and PLA-CF loaded in there and the fact that I can change to the best filament for my need by changing a drop down is brilliant. But then again I am lazy so I'll look for any thing that makes life easier.

You can print supports in a different filament to make removal easier, not something I've tried.

Done a few multicolour prints and they are cool, useful for jigs with markings etc, but not my main use of the AMS.

This raises a point I hadn’t really thought about. I was thinking about not getting the AMS add on as I don’t intend to print multiple colours in one print but I hadn’t considered what you’re saying about changing filaments between prints. How much effort is it to change filaments for different prints? If it’s going to make things easier I would prefer to buy together as it’s about a £100 saving on the AMS unit when bought as a package!

 

[Quercus]

Unless you have a very specific use case - neither Nylon nor ABS are necessary for the workshop purposes you listed.
PLA, PETG and their sub-variants are plenty strong. You just need to learn/understand what material/settings is more suitable for which application.
The model design and print settings may influence the print result durability much more than the source filament.

If you really - really want to print ABS and have a lot of spare time to tinker - it would appear that it may be possible with certain ABS variants on an open printer. Here is a discussion where someone was trying to print ABS on A1 mini: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/has-anyone-printed-in-abs/74751/8

Looking into this a bit further Bambu say on their website that ABS, although not ideal on the A1 for larger prints, is fine for small prints but while observing the need for good ventilation when doing so. It sounds like a greater chance of warping and delamination/poor bonding for larger prints in ABS on the A1.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Looking into this a bit further Bambu say on their website that ABS, although not ideal on the A1 for larger prints, is fine for small prints but while observing the need for good ventilation when doing so. It sounds like a greater chance of warping and delamination/poor bonding for larger prints in ABS on the A1.

Abs really needs an enclosure to maintain a steady temperature. It can also smell a bit

 

[Crazy Dave]

I have 2 P1S's and 1 has an AMS.
Dave, you mentioned that you wanted to print with PET-G, I must warn you that although printing with PET-G isn't really much different from PLA, PET-G likes to absorb moisture and it will suck up so much that it can take up to 12 hours to dry it out. I've even had brand new spools that are vacuum packed that needed 12 hours in the dryer before it could be used so consider this, the chances IMO of getting a successful print with an A1 without an enclosure using PET-G are practically nill. Therefore the P1S would be your best bet and I'm talking from my own experience with PET-G.

My advice would be to start printing with PLA until you get some experience with the printer and the Bambu Studio software, the P1S will work first time straight out of the box so there's no messing around building it and there's loads of info on YouTube on how to unpack it, the instructions are good too and it comes with some filament to get you started.

Also if you have any questions or issues I'm only a message away.
Good Luck.

 

[paulrbarnard]

I have 2 P1S's and 1 has an AMS.
Dave, you mentioned that you wanted to print with PET-G, I must warn you that although printing with PET-G isn't really much different from PLA, PET-G likes to absorb moisture and it will suck up so much that it can take up to 12 hours to dry it out. I've even had brand new spools that are vacuum packed that needed 12 hours in the dryer before it could be used so consider this, the chances IMO of getting a successful print with an A1 without an enclosure using PET-G are practically nill. Therefore the P1S would be your best bet and I'm talking from my own experience with PET-G.

My advice would be to start printing with PLA until you get some experience with the printer and the Bambu Studio software, the P1S will work first time straight out of the box so there's no messing around building it and there's loads of info on YouTube on how to unpack it, the instructions are good too and it comes with some filament to get you started.

Also if you have any questions or issues I'm only a message away.
Good Luck.

I’ve heard this so many times about petg, and others, but I store mine in the open air, don’t dry it and don’t have any issue printing with it on my very old prusa clone. That said I completely agree about the enclosure being a big benifit.

 

[Quercus]

Decisions decisions! It sounds like the A1 is going to be a great machine to learn on and something that will still prove useful to keep even if I decide to upgrade further down the line. As fleyh pointed out in post#2 there are likely to be frequent upgrades coming out and I would think that by the time I’ve started sussing out CADs and working out where I want to go with 3D printing there will be more upgraded options out there.

Whilst the P1S is tempting it probably goes a bit beyond my needs at the moment and the A1’s limitations on filaments like PETG and the likes are not a deal breaker for me, it seems like a lot of what I’d be doing will be fine with PLA anyway.

I wasn’t going to get the AMS add on but the saving as a package vs buying later is considerable(£100). Even if I don’t use it right away I’m sure it will be useful later even if I upgrade to another machine as I will likely want to keep the A1 and will probably have more advanced projects to use it for by then.

Looks like I will be placing an order for an A1 including AMS lite.

Thanks for all the replies and help/advice offered, it’s helped me in my decision. My mind is made up but hopefully this will be useful for anyone else in a similar position to myself so please feel free to add comments still. I’d also be interested in thoughts on CAD/CAM programmes. I’ve read various threads on pro’s/con’s and differing opinions of various programmes but it’s always good to hear more. Personally I tried the free version of sketch up and found it ergonomically hard to use(possibly because I was using a track pad and not a mouse). I’m happy to pay for a decent programme but some of the packages I’ve seen were eye wateringly expensive, especially for hobby use.

Asides from the 3D printing aspect, I’d like to be able to design woodwork/metalwork projects and as mentioned earlier I plan to get into laser cutting in the near future.

Thanks again,
Dave

 

[Si465]

This raises a point I hadn’t really thought about. I was thinking about not getting the AMS add on as I don’t intend to print multiple colours in one print but I hadn’t considered what you’re saying about changing filaments between prints. How much effort is it to change filaments for different prints? If it’s going to make things easier I would prefer to buy together as it’s about a £100 saving on the AMS unit when bought as a package!

Changing filaments on the A1 mini is easy without AMS, couple of minutes at most. I keep my rolls sealed up with desiccant just in case of this moisture absorbing problem so wouldn't want to leave them on an AMS all the time anyway.

 

[Crazy Dave]

This is what wet PET-G looks like from my experience.