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wizer

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John.B put this idea in my head the other day. Is there any reason not to do it? The reasoning is that with a Wolverine type jig, there is a possibility of the tool getting trapped between the wheel and jig. Albeit small, I wonder if there is any other reason not to do it.

This is the general idea but showing it for carving gouges

15502_lg.jpg
 
The Ashley Isles diamond wheel carving tool sharpening system works in this way - i.e. up and away from you rather than towards and down. I bought their wheels and took a cheap grinder, turned the body round and produced one myself. It is much more forgiving than the forward cutting one. Does produce a wire edge, which is then buffed/honed off on the cloth wheel. Frequently, all the tool needs is a buff with green soap on the honing wheel, not a regrind.
 
I have a rexon grinder that I use as a buffing station, I took the stand off and turned it around and reattached it so that the switch is still at the front. The grinder now rotates away or up wards if you prefer. Carvers do this with grinders often when attaching the Asley Iles grinding and honing kit for sharpening carving chisels. I also took all the guards and wheel shrouds off something I would not do with a stone wheel.
 
wizer.

Looks like a good idea. Can't see any reason why it would not do just fine.

Just curious what is the advantage of grinding this way apart from your issue with the tool trapping.


M
 
Wizer,

Would this not result in sparks flying up rather than down?

Dave
 
davejester":2zumgaqw said:
Wizer,

Would this not result in sparks flying up rather than down?

Dave

Not speaking as an expert: I guess it depends on speed and type of wheel. I happen to have a slow speed cruessen with no gaurds.
 
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