Good advice
Ash goblet hollowing
- Thread starter Kerrowman
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Mark Hancock
Established Member
You can tell how you are cutting i.e. on side or end of the wood fibres by what comes off the tool - long shavings show you are cutting on the side of the fibres, dust shows you are cutting the ends of the fibres.
Well definitely dust when I was working on the cross section of the cylinder.
Cooper
Established Member
Hi Paul,
I watched your video and was really pleased to see how you made a barley twist by hand. I had a go this morning, making a candle stick from scraps of Bay. Quite pleased at my first attempt with a rasp. Thanks for the very clear instructions.
Martin
Nelly111s
Established Member
Did you say that you were using a screw and the 50mm jaws? For work holding, you'd be better turning a dovetail on the end of the spindle to match the dovetail on your jaws. Then make sure that the end of the workpiece fits flush with the jaws and don't use the screw (which is mainly used for faceplate work). Once you've got that sorted, if the size of the spindle (goblet) isn't too big, a spindle gouge or bowl gouge is OK. Just not a spindle roughing gouge.
If you're knocking it off centre with catches, the most likely things are either a blunt tool or that you're not cutting on the centre line. Make sure your tool rest is set with the tool on top of it (with the lathe off) so that the tool cuts on the centreline of the timber.
If you're knocking it off centre with catches, the most likely things are either a blunt tool or that you're not cutting on the centre line. Make sure your tool rest is set with the tool on top of it (with the lathe off) so that the tool cuts on the centreline of the timber.
Paul Hannaby
Established Member
I'm glad the video was of use. Good first attempt!
Hi mate, it sounds like your issue is actually with holding which can be over looked sometimes.
The key to a good firm hold is to ensure the the tenon you start with is correct.
the way to do it his is to start with your blank between centres. Round/true the blank upusing a roughing gouge. Then make a tenon at the tail stock end of the piece. This should have a flat shoulder ( running 90degrees to the axis of the lathe) and a slightly dove tailed tenon.
the jaws of the Chuck will bite down on the tennon and give you drive, but the stability you are looking for comes from the flat shoulder contacting true with the front face of the jaws.
to ensure this happens make sure the depth of the tenon is just slightly less than the depths of the jaws so that the tenon does not contact the jaw plates.
this will give you a much more firm hold.
from there take light cuts with a sharp tool.. a good start would be a 3/8 bowl gouge.
you could drill out the central stock but this will not help you develop the skills that you clearly want to learn.
if I can be of any more help your welcome to message me directly on my Instagram page
jack Mack woodturning.
The key to a good firm hold is to ensure the the tenon you start with is correct.
the way to do it his is to start with your blank between centres. Round/true the blank upusing a roughing gouge. Then make a tenon at the tail stock end of the piece. This should have a flat shoulder ( running 90degrees to the axis of the lathe) and a slightly dove tailed tenon.
the jaws of the Chuck will bite down on the tennon and give you drive, but the stability you are looking for comes from the flat shoulder contacting true with the front face of the jaws.
to ensure this happens make sure the depth of the tenon is just slightly less than the depths of the jaws so that the tenon does not contact the jaw plates.
this will give you a much more firm hold.
from there take light cuts with a sharp tool.. a good start would be a 3/8 bowl gouge.
you could drill out the central stock but this will not help you develop the skills that you clearly want to learn.
if I can be of any more help your welcome to message me directly on my Instagram page
jack Mack woodturning.
