Applying filler to external woodwork - any quick solution?

[Jacob]

Jacob - Worthington E and Blue Bass were exactly the same. It has been widely known for decades (at least four, to my knowledge). I have friends who worked both for Bass and the local brewery (A240 was the their bottling code) which bottled it. Same tanker, same vat, same bottling line, same bottles ... and a different label. It was bottled less than 100 yards from where I lived, and i worked in the licenced trade all my working life.

As were apparently Red Bass and White Worthington, but that was a bit before my time.

"Worthington E" meant fizzy, pasteurised, tasteless keg beer, drunk by millions who knew (or could get) no better. Yes it was also available in bottles as was Blue Bass but hardly anybody touched either of these.
"Bass" usually means a proper cask conditioned beer, un-pasteurised, un-filtered and needing careful care in a cellar.
They are utterly different, however close their origins. I had 3 pints the night before last and it didn't resemble Worthington E at all!
And the difference is what the real ale campaign is all about. Very successful too - you can now get good beer all over the place, even in Scotland which used to be entirely McEwans. Even the french are at it with local "artisan" breweries, though I never had a problem with a cold glass of ordinary french keg lager, on a sunny day somewhere in France!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Worthington E was available as a draught as well. I was a 16 y. o. cellarman - I used to keep it. Yes, the draught was different from Bass to Worthington. Only the bottles were the same. We had two places ten miles apart, in one (small place) we could only sell Bass and counldn't sell E for love nor money, and in the other fifty cases of E a week, and next to no Bass. Over the years I sold 100s of dozens of Es to Bass drinkers and Bass to E drinkers. If the bottle was out of sight I just used whatever we had most of. Bass changed significantly in 1983 iirc when they abandoned the Burton Union system - it was never quite the same.

 

[MikeJhn]

None of those fluids could be used to fill external woodwork, the problem would be to hold it in place in the first instance and then preventing the wood from absorbing the fluid, plus excessive use would give the building a noticeable lean to one side, this would depend on the orientation of the building to the sun and its surrounding topography, no doubt the lean would be opposite in the Souther Hemisphere.

Used in excess by the operator the look of the building would improve to the point that they don't care what it looks like after a while.

Can we get back to the wood filler question now?

Mike

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Sorry. it would have found its way back on track.

 

[Jacob]

...
Can we get back to the wood filler question now?

Mike

Okie cokie.
Have been filling some holes today - some reclaimed T&G to be incorporated into our new kitchen.
I used some very old putty. It's a little pot from Wilco from a year or so back. (I'm semi retired so there is less turnover of fresh stuff compared to the bad old days when I was having to work).
Blast in the microwave (1 minute at 100%) and it's warmed up.
This softens it - but not the skin which has gone off for ever. But that's OK we are only filling holes.
Kneaded with pallete knife first and then in hands.
Holes filled - putty pushed in with thumb.
24 hours later - sand paper on a cork block. It's still softish but it kinda rubs in. The sand paper fills up with putty so it's a putty on putty rubbing operation.
Another 24 hours and it's OK for painting with linseed oil paint.
Actually very little time involved here, as long as you aren't sitting there playing with yourself waiting for things to dry.

Possibly the most salient features are that the T&G was primed with linseed, the putty is linseed based, the paint is linseed. They are compatible.
You could stick shellac into the sequence which appears to be incompatible but in fact goes very well with the linseed oil products
Old putty doesn't work so well for glazing as you can't smooth the lumpy bits. It has to be factory fresh.

 

[ColeyS1]

Blast in the microwave (1 minute at 100%)

That reminds me of the ateam episode where Franky gives B.A advice on how to clean his gold. Something about lathering it on cooking oil first

Coley