anyone work with ebony?

woodbrains · 13 Jun 2016

sunnybob":f12mfi1f said:
yes, i realised I was asking too much very quickly once I started looking in earnest. I dont want the back piece joined.

I think I will have to just dye and stain something I have here. Luckily I have a lot of small scraps of a half dozen woods I can practice on

Hello,

I have some wenge veneer, I could let you have enough to do your job with, if you'd like. You'd only need to color the edges that way and the front and back would be real wood. Something like sapele would work. Veneer both sides and colour the edges with a sharpie or something.

Mike.

sunnybob · 13 Jun 2016

I havent used a proper wood veneer, how thick is it, and is it especially difficult to glue?

I am interested in your offer, whereabouts are you?

woodbrains · 13 Jun 2016

sunnybob":2ot4eyuu said:
I havent used a proper wood veneer, how thick is it, and is it especially difficult to glue?

I am interested in your offer, whereabouts are you?

Ahh, not in Cyprus, didn't read that. But still could be posted just the same.

A small board is easy to veneer. In a nutshell, get some plywood or MDF as cauls a bit bigger than your board and plenty of clamps. Wax the cauls so they will not get glued by mistake. Glue the board, apply the veneer and do the other side simultaneously. Sandwich between the cauls and put on plenty of clamps. If your clamps do not reach sufficiently toward the middle, then use several layers of MDF cauls to spread the pressure further. If you are going to veneer solid stock, then orientate the veneer's grain in the same direction, and the finished article will act like a natural wood board would.

Oh, commercial veneer is about 0.6 mm thick.

Mike.