Anyone Come Across This Router Bit Before...

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I was looking at that exact same page a few weeks ago.
Couldn't the same be achieved with a roundover, flipping the workpiece for each side?
Adam
 
RILEY":2ddbtp1l said:
I was looking at that exact same page a few weeks ago.
Couldn't the same be achieved with a roundover, flipping the workpiece for each side?
No, because on the second pass the bearing would be running on a curved surface and you'll end up with at least a bad witness mark which needs a lot of sanding out. As for suppliers, if you need one of these cutters Wealden Tool do a range of bull nose cutters (or as they like to call them "Bead and Edge Radius") which can take a guide bearing if required. Next day service, too. I sometimes use the 25mm and 32mm radius cutters for counter edges and they perform well in a router table.
 
FFC
That's very interesting. How does this cutter take a guide bearing? Is it a case of fitting one to the shaft, or is the end drilled and tapped for an end bearing and screw?

Cheers
Steve
 
Ah, I don't think I made myself clear.

I meant how does the Wealden cutter take a bearing?

Or were you just winding me up (successfully) on a Sunday evening?
(In which case I need to regain my normal sense of humour, I know. Hard week).
S
 
No Steve, I wasn't trying to wind you up!

Either you didn't make yourself clear or I misunderstood you! :?

No probs either way.
 
Steve just above the table on the wealden site you can click on " bearing kits"

Jason
 
The only problem I have with the Weladen cutters is that they step straight from 25mm to 32mm. When I was experimenting with tote designs for my large smoother I found that the optimum width of tote for my hand was about 28mm. The Veritas cutter also only goes to 25mm

Unless another source can be found I'll be sticking to using rasps, which are infinately more fun than a router cutter, and also pretty damned quick when you get into it.

I used a couple of crossing rasps from Workshop Heaven and was very pleased with how efficient they worked.

http://workshopheaven.com/cgi-bin/c...&ref=Crossing+Rasps&catstr=HOME:Rasps+&+Files

I bought the coarse, medium and fine, but you'd get by with just the coarse and medium, as the difference between meduim and fine was quite insignificant. These rasps work out at a fraction of the cost of Auriou rasps and to be honest I was very impressed indeed with them. The finish of the Rosewood handles are very good indeed, and show that a lot of care was taken in producing these fine rasps. I'll be adding a few more to the collection before long.

Cheers

Aled
 
FFC, I would always sand down after routing anyway, and as for the bearing running on a curved surface, I wouldn't use a cutter whose diameter matched or exceeded the thickness of the handle anyway, so there would always be a slight 'flat' for the bearing to run on, albeit small.
As I would always finish a handle by hand (because the radius changes to fit comfortably in my hand), the cost of one of these cutters, as nice as it is, will not be tempting me to open my wallet.
Cheers.
Adam
 
I think it means variable depth of the round over of the handle by changing the size of the bearing like you do on a router biscuit jointing bit for the different sized biscuits.
 
No. It means variable width of workpiece. The cutter is in two stacked pieces, and so the width (height) can be changed by adding or subtracting shims.

Given that the two halves of the cutter overlap, I don't see how you can avoid getting either a flat or a point, however slight, at all positions but one, where both halves are tangential to each other.

I bet it's an excellent tool for production work though.

S
 
dickm":3pyw34uj said:
Sorry to be stoopid, but how does that cutter accommodate "variable widths"?
This picture from the Lee Valley site should make it clear:
16j4010s3.jpg
 
Sorry for not replying earlier, but sometimes work gets in the way! As others have already mentioned these Wealden cutters have the option of adding a bearing kit to the bottom of the cutter. Witrh the judicious choice of bearings one can be fitted which matches the fattest part of the moulding which makes templating simple.
RILEY":1d2uvzoj said:
FFC, I would always sand down after routing anyway, and as for the bearing running on a curved surface, I wouldn't use a cutter whose diameter matched or exceeded the thickness of the handle anyway, so there would always be a slight 'flat' for the bearing to run on, albeit small.
For your application that might work out rather well, however for tasks such as stair nosings, countertop edges, etc in hardwood sanding out consistently might be impossible or just too time consuming.
 
Titman have a different approach, a roundover bit with a radiused bearing for the second pass which follows the profile of the first pass, for a completely rounded edge. I'll try to find details if you're interested.

John
 

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