Anyone carried out major repair to casement window in situ?

[Steve Blackdog]

Hi folks,

Due to the laziness of successive decorators, one of my window frames has a fair bit of rot which needs dealing with.

I don't really want to cut the rot out and fill it - as that has been done before and the rot just carried on rotting, but under the filler (hammer) (hammer)

I'd rather cut back the rotten parts of the frame and splice in some new wood.

The frame is very simple Arts and Crafts/Shaker style - no moulding, just square sections.

The reason I don't want to replace the window is that they are old leaded lights in steel frames. The two side panels are fixed and were screwed to the frame before being glazed - they cannot be removed without trashing them. There is a centre panel is an opening window, which can be removed without damage.

The window has four vertical posts - one at each side and one between each pane, and one 'lintel' and one sill. The side vertical posts have rot next to the brickwork as has the top lintel. I think I will replace the sill completely.

Has anyone ever attempted this type of repair whilst the frame is in situ? I could do with any tips before I set loose on the project.

My current planned method of cutting out rot on the two edge posts is to rig up a guide and cut a slice the post top to bottom about 1" form the edge with a circular saw and dig out 1" deep with a chisel - maybe cleaning up the bottom of the cut with the router (a bit tricky though!). That would get rid of all of the rot (I hope). I suspect there is a much more sensible way to do this. :?: :?:

I keep putting this job off, but I can't put it off forever.

All ideas and experience very welcome.

All the best.

Steve

 

[JonnyD]

Can't quite picture exactly what your intending a pic would help. I've found a fein multimaster is the best tool to use for splicing windows and it would be worth looking into epoxy repair systems if you've a lot to do.

Cheers

Jon

 

[neilyweely]

I've done this a few times.
This is how I have done it in the past -
Establish where all the rot is, and cut it out at an angle of approx 45' across the frame, approx 3 inches past the rot so you are sure to be into good wood. Even then I always use plenty of preservative on the existing window frame. Then use a sliding bevel to get an exact angle to match the repair in, and copy the profile of the frame (I usually do this on a router table, but if it is only a small section I have used moulding planes) onto some timber of the correct proportions. Then I splice the section in using a 2 part epoxy based filler to 'help'. I have had to rout out a section approx 1cm x 10cm x 2cm overlapping the joint (not sure I am explaining this very well, but I cannot use sketchup, so...) by equal amounts and then placing a metal plate in the routed section, screwing it down, to reinforce the joint. Some 2 part filler over the metal plate before painting makes it all but invisible. I know I have explained that terribly, can someone help me out here? Does anyone know what I mean? No?
Anyway, best to take window off hinges if at all possible, and then board up to allow painting whilst out of frame, get it all square etc and then re-hang. I'm not going to say easy, but it can't be that difficult as I have never had a problem. I use the Wickes epoxy based exterior filler and their wet rot hardener, which both seem to work well.

Sorry, if its any consolation I know what I mean!! :lol:

Neil

 

[Steve Blackdog]

Neil

I know what you mean!!! Thanks for that. A 45 degree cut makes a lot of sense. The good thing about the square sections is that there is no moulding to deal with.

Jon

I'll take a pic and post it to show the window. I'm delighted with your suggestion to use a Fein Multimaster as it is a fantastic excuse to buy one

Cheers

Steve

 

[dickm]

... or if you don't want/can't really justify spending the money on a Fein, the Bosch copy (and maybe even the cheapo Lidl/aldi copies) might be an alternative. My Bosch has seen pretty good, if irregular service.

 

[Steve Blackdog]

These are the best photos I could manage in the freezing dark

 

[kostello]

Google repair care resin

Its a 2 part epoxy ideal for these sorts of repairs.............


Or you can use any other epoxy with the correct filler.



You have to make sure you remove all the rotten and soft wood back to solid stuff before you repair.

 

[Steve Blackdog]

Google repair care resin

Its a 2 part epoxy ideal for these sorts of repairs.............


Or you can use any other epoxy with the correct filler.



You have to make sure you remove all the rotten and soft wood back to solid stuff before you repair.

Brilliant. Thank you. I will give it a go - much cheaper than new windows

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The last time I did a major repair on a box frame window, I realised afterwards that I could have made a new one in about half the time. Think about it.

 

[Benchwayze]

The last time I did a major repair on a box frame window, I realised afterwards that I could have made a new one in about half the time. Think about it.

+1

 

[Boatfixer]

I would be using a multi tool - I bought a cheap Netto one several years ago to see if I would use such a tool regularly, intending to replace it with a proper one if I found it useful. I am still using it regularly.....

Epoxy would also be my glue of choice but at this time of the year achieving and holding minimum temperatures could be tricky. Might be a better job to do in the summer

 

[milkman]

Depending on your budget you can get 2-part repair systems that incorporate different additives to cover cold/warm weather. I used one on a big repair/conservation job once. (sorry but can’t remember the brand name although West System is good for this).
The secret is to be thorough in removing the rot and then maintaining the finish more frequently.

We used a die grinder with a rounded router bit for the removal of the rot and then used the two-pack to either fill or glue in wooden repair pieces. I've since used a chisel/fein/paint can opener (works great as a little pull knife).

If you can remove the window sashes all the better. If its on a first floor then you have my commiserations.
Also check the seal around the frame. Is it letting water in to fester between the brick and the window? I've refilled the gap around our window with lime mortar because I think it will breath. Whether I'm kidding myself I no doubt will find out in due course!

Cheers
Mark