Anybody able to cast aluminium?

[Sideways]

My guess is with yours Morris.
If this were a cast iron Sedgwick or better, one bearing would be standard type and the other self aligning. Maybe this has two standard bearings and the O rings just accommodate all the alignment errors inherent in the castings and pressed steel chassis.

 

[niall Y]

Those parts look suspiciously like the ones on my Elektra- Beckum , the details at the top are identical, whether the holes are the same is another matter. Metabo, do quite a good range of spares that still fit the older models. They have changed a bit over the years, but its surprising how many parts are still the same. Your planer looks to be one of the clones of the original. Bearing this in mind ,it might be worth checking out their spares catalogue on line.
............just been checking You tube, and there is a German guy replacing the bearings on his HC260 M planer, and the parts look identical - including the rubber ring.
Best of luck Niall

 

[Inspector]

I'd send Peri the bearing and housing to model up and cnc some for you, possibly extras in case others pop up with the same issue. You know people with the machine are going to look theirs over and find the same problem.

Would one of the type of square flanges sets fit?
https://www.bearingscanada.com/2-UC...MI7oq2wP_69wIVYRTUAR0BGQ3CEAYYBSABEgKU9vD_BwE
Pete

 

[KingAether]

I've been contemplating some steel tube wit 40mm id and the welding a plate to it in order to bolt it in place. Drill a hole through the plate to allow the shaft through.

If its just 40mm, personally, i'd get some 12mm mild steel, spend £20 on a tungsten carbide 40mm core bit. Drill the hole on a pillar drill, line it up on the machine to mark the screw holes and drill and tap them.. would cost £30 at most if you dont have the bit or the tap. Can't harm to try given the cheapest option otherwise is probably find a for parts machine

 

[NickDReed]

If its just 40mm, personally, i'd get some 12mm mild steel, spend £20 on a tungsten carbide 40mm core bit. Drill the hole on a pillar drill, line it up on the machine to mark the screw holes and drill and tap them.. would cost £30 at most if you dont have the bit or the tap. Can't harm to try given the cheapest option otherwise is probably find a for parts machine

This is what I love! Simple solutions!

 

[NickDReed]

Thanks all for your advice and input. I have a fee ideas I'm going to look into and also might take Steve @Peri up on his very kind offer should I fail in my endeavours.

I shall post and update on the solution, or lack of.

Now there is something for you all to look forward to.

Regards
Nick

 

[Peri]

If you just want something that looks like that, I'll get a few dimensions off you and I can have it in the post over the weekend

 

[alan895]

Would this be a sufficient replacement for what you need (a little pricey but try making an offer)?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184952453517?hash=item2b1006798d:g:YGcAAOSwQeFg9Wym

 

[Inspector]

Would this be a sufficient replacement for what you need (a little pricey but try making an offer)?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184952453517?hash=item2b1006798d:g:YGcAAOSwQeFg9Wym

Not really pricy when you consider there are all the spares that go with it. Blades, gibs and screws, pulley etc. The bearings may be good too. The real rub is how much to ship?

Pete

 

[Dabop]

I'd second the idea of checking out a pillow block bearing- huge range of sizes and looks like it would bolt straight up with the right measurements...

 

[Jameshow]

Not really pricy when you consider there are all the spares that go with it. Blades, gibs and screws, pulley etc. The bearings may be good too. The real rub is how much to ship?

Pete

£80 all in...

 

[plum60]

dont forget the internal groove for the rubber o ring...

It looks like a low pressure gravity die casting. To make a new one you need the die and permission from the owner. Either the company that commissioned the part paid for the die or the foundry had it made from their drawing and didn't sell them the die so the foundry own the die but the drawing for the part will be owned by the company that commissioned it I expect. The casting will need to be fettled, milled and drilled to spec from the drawing. This casting failed for a reason. Most casting for machines are heat treated to harden them, maybe this one wasn't or the machine subjected it to uneven pressure in use ... or there were hair line cracks in the casting caused by impurities in the aluminium. When ingot is melted impurities are drawn out to the top and the dross skimmed off. You are better off to either find the owner of the die or to buy another cheap same machine to remove and reuse that casting. I think finding another same machine that still has a working part is your best and cheapest option. If that also breaks its a stress issue to do with the balance of the machine or excessive heat.
Hi all, I'm hoping there may be someone able to help me.

I had an interesting day on the garage on Sunday. While passing a piece of oak through the thicknesser I noticed the aluminium casting on one side that holds the bearing was broken. Obviously I turned the machine off instantly. After undoing a few bits it was clear that it was utterly fornicated.

I've been in contact with axminster who have rather concerningly told me the cannot provide a spare part. I'm querying this, because my understanding is the CCNPT is a very generic model.


However, when faced with the very real possibility I might need to fork out several hundreds of pounds if not thousands, I thought I'd see if any folks on here a able to cast such a piece in their workshops? I would require 2 as the other side has a fine crack in it too.

I know it's a long shot, but thought it might be worth a punt.

All the best

NickView attachment 136353View attachment 136354View attachment 136355View attachment 136356View attachment 136357View attachment 136358View attachment 136359View attachment 136360View attachment 136361

 

[niall Y]

A quick look at an exploded diagram of a Metabo HC260C. and it looks to be a CONROD BEARING SHELL , numbered on the diagram as 236. I note that these are available for just over a tenner. At this price maybe worth a punt?,

Thanks all for your advice and input. I have a fee ideas I'm going to look into and also might take Steve @Peri up on his very kind offer should I fail in my endeavours.

I shall post and update on the solution, or lack of.

Now there is something for you all to look forward to.

Regards
Nick

 

[NickDReed]

Update:

I took Steve @Peri up on his very kind offer to assist me and on Tuesday two custom made mounting blocks for the bearings arrived, in which I then drilled bolt holes.

The bearing went in with a little persuasion and heating the blocks in the oven first (Steve informs me he was advised this might work by a colleague)

Last night I set about mounting it all.

And I'm so pleased to report that its worked!

So grateful to you all for your advice, and especially Steve who doesn't know me from Adam, but was willing to come to the aid of a total stranger and ask for nothing in return. My faith in humanity may be restored yet.

Now, at what point do I mention to Steve the 4 tier pulley that needs replacing on the old Atlas 73 drill pressI collected last week?

 

[Peri]

If you can draw it, I'll take a look at it

Extremely happy it worked out Nick, the extra time it took to make the gauge pin paid dividends.