Anybody able to cast aluminium?

[NickDReed]

Hi all, I'm hoping there may be someone able to help me.

I had an interesting day on the garage on Sunday. While passing a piece of oak through the thicknesser I noticed the aluminium casting on one side that holds the bearing was broken. Obviously I turned the machine off instantly. After undoing a few bits it was clear that it was utterly fornicated.

I've been in contact with axminster who have rather concerningly told me the cannot provide a spare part. I'm querying this, because my understanding is the CCNPT is a very generic model.


However, when faced with the very real possibility I might need to fork out several hundreds of pounds if not thousands, I thought I'd see if any folks on here a able to cast such a piece in their workshops? I would require 2 as the other side has a fine crack in it too.

I know it's a long shot, but thought it might be worth a punt.

All the best

Nick

 

[Jameshow]

My question would be, why would you cast it?

Casting is a cheap way of producing parts. Which then have limited strength.

Better to find someone to machine it for you from a billet of aluminium. Try your local model engineers club or some on here might be able too.

It could be done commercially but would be quite expensive.

 

[Lorenzl]

You could get a pair machined and it would be cheaper if it could be simplified.

I guess at least £180 each to machine. If you have it cast it would still need some machining. Although the simpler you can get the design the cheaper it should be.

 

[Peri]

Are they both the same, are you in a rush, could you provide drawings?

It looks like something I could do at work, but it would have to be in my free time.

(I have access to a cnc mill & lathe)

 

[Torx]

Can you take a photo of the area the bearing mounts came from, with the good one loosely in position?

Just wondering if something off the shelf like a pillow block could be encouraged to fit.

 

[NickDReed]

My question would be, why would you cast it?

Casting is a cheap way of producing parts. Which then have limited strength.

Better to find someone to machine it for you from a billet of aluminium. Try your local model engineers club or some on here might be able too.

It could be done commercially but would be quite expensive.

I had assumed that this was how it was originally made.

 

[NickDReed]

Can you take a photo of the area the bearing mounts came from, with the good one loosely in position?

Just wondering if something off the shelf like a pillow block could be encouraged to fit.

I've been contemplating some steel tube wit 40mm id and the welding a plate to it in order to bolt it in place. Drill a hole through the plate to allow the shaft through.

 

[NickDReed]

Are they both the same, are you in a rush, could you provide drawings?

It looks like something I could do at work, but it would have to be in my free time.

(I have access to a cnc mill & lathe)

Hi, both are the same yes.

Are we talking scale drawings etc? I'm more a scribble on a bit of scrap but I could have a go?

Thanks for the offer

 

[Lorenzl]

I had assumed that this was how it was originally made.

It looks like a die casting which tends to have large grains and that is where it cracks. Making the die is quite expensive but cheaper to make the parts as they use less metal, are a better finish and are a good size. You can get away with minimal or no machining.
They might even be made of zinc.

 

[Torx]

View attachment 136381

I've been contemplating some steel tube wit 40mm id and the welding a plate to it in order to bolt it in place. Drill a hole through the plate to allow the shaft through.

I think your idea would work as well as anything. I’d get undersize tube or start with a bar and get it turned to allow the bearing to be pressed in.

 

[Peri]

Hi, both are the same yes.

Are we talking scale drawings etc? I'm more a scribble on a bit of scrap but I could have a go?

Thanks for the offer

As long as it's got the needed dimensions - (in metric please ) - I can model it in CAD first and make my own drawings for machining.

Edit - Probably wouldn't be any more difficult to make them out of steel if you'd prefer that.

 

[NickDReed]

As long as it's got the needed dimensions - (in metric please ) - I can model it in CAD first and make my own drawings for machining.

Edit - Probably wouldn't be any more difficult to make them out of steel if you'd prefer that.

Really kind of you thanks.

I may get back to you shortly about it. Going to explore a couple of other options initially, bit if I have no luck would you be happy for me to contact you directly on here?

Regards

Nick

 

[Sideways]

That casting is way more complex than it needs to be.
Better made from billet as said.
Mill a square block to size, bore out for the bearing and spindle, bore 4 holes for the fixing bolts , make the flange part on top as a separate plate, drill tap and bolt on. It's just a dust shield.
It's still a solid half days work (?) for a machinist with all the measuring and setup. A day+ for an amateur with the tools.
You should expect to pay £300 to have a pair made but they will be better than the originals.
It won't be any better than your ability to measure it, so if you can't, better to give the parts to the person making it so that they can do that properly.
Tell them the part numbers of the bearings too - those are precision ground so the part number can be looked up to confirm the exact dimensions required for the bearing recess which needs to be a very accurate fit. A not too many microns undersize and you'll never get the bearing in, too big and it'll be useless.

 

[Old.bodger]

There seems to be an ‘O’ ring in there. Function not clear!

 

[cerro]

I hate monkey metal as much as I hate plastic. It would be easy to make one on a milling machine made with mild steel or brass, a friend maybe has one.

 

[Lorenzl]

That casting is way more complex than it needs to be.

Easier to make with less metal used.

 

[peter spratt]

i think its probably better to look for a secondhand planer thicknesser to either take off the spares or simply use as is

 

[peter spratt]

whereabouts are you, I live in kent and I have a fairly new 13" planer thicknesser you could bring your plank over and use here as a temp measure. and there is a shop in Essex that repairs and sells used machinery. [email protected]

 

[rafezetter]

That casting is way more complex than it needs to be.
Better made from billet as said.
Mill a square block to size, bore out for the bearing and spindle, bore 4 holes for the fixing bolts , make the flange part on top as a separate plate, drill tap and bolt on. It's just a dust shield.
It's still a solid half days work (?) for a machinist with all the measuring and setup. A day+ for an amateur with the tools.
You should expect to pay £300 to have a pair made but they will be better than the originals.
It won't be any better than your ability to measure it, so if you can't, better to give the parts to the person making it so that they can do that properly.
Tell them the part numbers of the bearings too - those are precision ground so the part number can be looked up to confirm the exact dimensions required for the bearing recess which needs to be a very accurate fit. A not too many microns undersize and you'll never get the bearing in, too big and it'll be useless.

dont forget the internal groove for the rubber o ring...

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

The function of that o-ring is interesting. I thought at first glance it was a circlip to retain the bearing sideways into the precision housing. At a second look it appears to be halfway along said bearing. As @Sideways said a bearing should have a precise housing so why an o-ring in that position. The thought that comes to my mind is that a cheapo diecast casting is not going to be that precise so rather than the cost of machining it they fit an o-ring to hold the bearing in place. Mind you I'm not a mechy so your guess is probably better than mine.