any sparkies?
- Thread starter malky boi
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Dee J
Established Member
What value breaker is it? does it have a letter code as well? eg. B16 or B32. Have you got any motor specification?
SlowSteve
Established Member
Serious question - have you cleaned the fan, baffles, filters etc and checked nothing has got bent or tweaked?
If the extractor HAS been working, and now isn't - then it's pulling more current on start-up than it used to. That could be a short, but with something like this, it's more likely it's working a lot harder due to a physical issue.
If it's brand new, then ignore this totally and don't trust it until you have worked out the root cause.
If the extractor HAS been working, and now isn't - then it's pulling more current on start-up than it used to. That could be a short, but with something like this, it's more likely it's working a lot harder due to a physical issue.
If it's brand new, then ignore this totally and don't trust it until you have worked out the root cause.
Monkey Mark
Established Member
Is it an existing one that has recently started to do this or a new one?
Any model details?
If the 2200 part refers to watts then it will run at 9.5amps. Starting current could well be peaking over the 13amps if on a standard plug top.
Any model details?
If the 2200 part refers to watts then it will run at 9.5amps. Starting current could well be peaking over the 13amps if on a standard plug top.
RogerS
Established Member
The machine is about 10 years old and has run like a dream. It has a 1.5kw motor, 13 amp plug top and a B16 curcuit breaker. Impellor is running freely with no noise or scraping, no blockages. Nothing has changed regarding use, siting, etc for the last 10 years. It is a magnetic switch? contactor and overload relay. I have the manual that came with it and there a few other figures for the contactor and relay. It seems like a pretty standard piece of kit.
Monkey Mark
Established Member
If it's 10 years old could the brushes need replacing? Potentially, that can increase amps.
Dee J
Established Member
In a race between a 13A fuse a a B16 mcb its fairly likely that the mcb would trip before the fuse blows... So it sounds like you have an overcurrent fault (or an earth fault if you have no rcd in circuit). If the mechanical condition hasn't changed then you have an electrical fault. What are the motor start arrangements?
I am not sure what you mean by motor start arrangements. do you mean the wiring diagram for the switch? i just put a post on tool reviews I wonder if the 2 are connected?
"Does anyone have a charnwood WS619 table saw? The dust extraction seems awful. My extractor works very well with evething else. It has a 4" port but seems to go down to about 1" space below the saw blade. It definately is not blocked anywhere but when i switch on the extractor the plastic sack hardly inflates."
"Does anyone have a charnwood WS619 table saw? The dust extraction seems awful. My extractor works very well with evething else. It has a 4" port but seems to go down to about 1" space below the saw blade. It definately is not blocked anywhere but when i switch on the extractor the plastic sack hardly inflates."
RogerS
Established Member
If you post over on thewoodhaven2.co.uk then 9fingers (Bob) will, I'm sure be able to advise.
Argus
Established Member
Capacitor?
RogerS
Established Member
That's my thoughts, Argus. Seem to remember Bob (9fingers) talking about a start capacitor, a run capacitor and some centrifugal switch to go from one to the other. But whether or not that applies to all induction motors or just some, I know not.
Argus
Established Member
Single phase induction motors are configured with two stator windings, designated 'start' and a 'run'.
Some motors requiring a loaded start, which may be indeterminate in time, switch the start winding out of circuit when a desired speed has been achieved.
Other motors are termed 'capacitor-start-run' and do not have a switch; the capacitor remains in circuit all the time. Both will have a capacitor.
It is likely that a motor driving a small fan will be the latter, CSR type.
Capacitors are a static charge device and will show an open circuit in a healthy state. They will generally fail showing either an open circuit or a dead short. Digital ohmmeters are no good for checking capacitors - you need one of the old -fashioned analogue meters and a healthy capacitor will show a slow steady rise in resistance toward infinity.
However, the good news is that they are relatively cheap to buy and easy to obtain and should be the first thing to eliminate.
From the old capacitor, note the capacitance in mf (Micro Farad) and the working voltage - likely to be about 400 - 450 volts, but it may vary. Measure its physical size and get one the same.
Be careful disconnecting capacitors - even when isolated from the supply they can hold enough charge to give you a mighty whack.
Good luck
Some motors requiring a loaded start, which may be indeterminate in time, switch the start winding out of circuit when a desired speed has been achieved.
Other motors are termed 'capacitor-start-run' and do not have a switch; the capacitor remains in circuit all the time. Both will have a capacitor.
It is likely that a motor driving a small fan will be the latter, CSR type.
Capacitors are a static charge device and will show an open circuit in a healthy state. They will generally fail showing either an open circuit or a dead short. Digital ohmmeters are no good for checking capacitors - you need one of the old -fashioned analogue meters and a healthy capacitor will show a slow steady rise in resistance toward infinity.
However, the good news is that they are relatively cheap to buy and easy to obtain and should be the first thing to eliminate.
From the old capacitor, note the capacitance in mf (Micro Farad) and the working voltage - likely to be about 400 - 450 volts, but it may vary. Measure its physical size and get one the same.
Be careful disconnecting capacitors - even when isolated from the supply they can hold enough charge to give you a mighty whack.
Good luck
tomf
Established Member
Damp?
It could be the type of breaker; motor start up current is usually higher than the running current; a domestic house type breaker is not designed for these startup current spikes. Its likely you can find a suitable breaker to fit your board thou; think theyr'e type C or B breakers or something. Alternatively it could be you have a fault at the fan or its circuit.
RogerS
Established Member
Mel769":1cvknppi said:
No, it is not a breaker in his case. He said that it has been working for ten years.
As Argus has said, most likely the capacitor.
Argus
Established Member
Well, a capacitor is a ten-quid-fix............. or a punt if you prefer.
A motor is ten times that, at least, so I hope that Malky lets us know what it is when he gets it fixed.
A motor is ten times that, at least, so I hope that Malky lets us know what it is when he gets it fixed.
RogerS
Established Member
Mel769":2usp3mqg said:
Possibly but I've rarely come across a duff breaker that trips out 'slowly' as it were. I think the breaker is doing what it was designed to do and that the capacitor or motor windings are drawing too much current. I just had a quick look at mine and the capacitor(s) are hidden away inside a box so not that easy to see.
